over gear

iTrader: (18)

I'm looking for a front oneway diff. anyone know where i can get one cheap?

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Good news guys- The tool we had machined to replace the oneway bearings in the front oneway WORKS !!! I have found the bearings, and so far the best price I have found is about $9 each. So the price will depend on how many bearings are bad plus my minimal charge plus shipping. I think you could safely use a small padded envelope since it's not very fragile (unless it's in my TC3...lol) When I actually get the new bearings will depend on how fast I get responses because I can't afford to buy a bunch right off the bat. You can use my email below of go to my website and get my phone number. The link is below.

You could also PM me

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

Stormer Hobbies has them. Your meaning of cheap.......I dunno, try Stormers though.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Hey Tony,
I noticed many of the mod motor setups which I see have an .090 spacer under the ballend on the steering hub. I'm assuming this is to eliminate bump steer, is this the case? And are there any times where the bump steer might be beneficial?

One last question- do the Ackerman spacers for the rack add or take away Ackerman?
Thanks!!

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

robk: Ackerman spacers=less Ackerman. I don't think you'd want bumpsteer, but, honestly, I've played with this setting and I really haven't noticed much of a difference except in bumpy conditions or where the wheels are at full lock (not often). You might play with bumpsteer to really see how it affects the cars settings...

BigDogRacing: New bearings???? I'm a little confused....are the standard ones not as good???

Corse-R

Yep! many people goes weird messing with ackerman and bumpsteer, when in some cases a quick change on the front castor blocks can suppose a big advantage (for those who doesn't tested the 2º castor blocks: test it!) and bring more help than messing with this settings whose changes are very very slight.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Tphalen- They're not as good when they turn both directions!!! LOL- There are only a few manufacturers that make the oneway bearings, and if I'm not mistaken, the ones I'm getting are exactly the same. I assumed that everyone would understand I meant the tool is for replacing the BAD bearings where normally you have to throw the housing away and buy a new one. Sorry for the lack of info... Can't you read my mind???

I don't know about anyone else, but I hurt the bearings in 2 oneways over the past year, and I wish I coulda just replaced the bearings at the time. At least now I have a backup...

wolfeman09

Anyone going to Revelation this Saturday in SoCal for their grand opening?

Hope to see you all there.

wonderboy

I just put together my FT TC3. Everything went together fine except the front end. I've already installed the Associated One-way, but it makes a severe clicking sound when going forward or backwards. I've isolated the clicking to the front but can't really determine what is causing it. I think it has something to do with the mesh of the gears. I'm using the the shim on the larger outdrive like they say to in the instructions. Should I try shimming it more or maybe run no shims. I only trouble shooted it for a few minutes but couldn't figure it out. Hopefully someone on here has experienced this problem and can provide with some assistance. If not I'll try and solve the problem myself.

Thanks for any help or comments. I built this thing to the letter and really wonder what is causing that clicking.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Two things....

1) The instructions are for building purposes only. You will most likely need to re-shim to make it run smoother. Take everything out of the lower diff case. Slide the one-way in and spin it. It should drop right in (no force) and spin freely. You may need to remove a <SLIGHT> amount of plastic off the diff housing to make the one-way drop in by itself. Once completed, insert the pinion and input shaft. There should be a small amount of play, but not too much. If it is too tight or too loose, re-shim the PINION using the black shims as per the instructions.

2) Apply a small amount of lube (we use Losi White Grease) on the gears prior to closing up the tranny. Also, don't forget to add black grease to the dogbone ends before installing into the one-way drive cups. One other thing, make sure you apply Associated RED label grease to the bearings IN the one-way.

Using these steps SHOULD clear up any problems. If not, make sure the gears are fine and that there are no burrs on them. I know they are new but you know how these things sometimes happen.

Hope this helps...

wolfeman09

TP > Just got the one way and you said use AE's Red Grease. I am assuming this is different than the grease that comes in the kit. The number on package is 6636 and is white. You also mentioned the Black grease, is this the one that comes in the kit? Finally, you said use the Losi grease. Is this better than the AE grease the instructions tell you to use when you build the tranny?

sorry for all the questions, this information is new to me.

Corse-R

Tony:

A word of caution regarding lubricants and greases. If you put grease on the ball diff and obeying the manual, put black grease in the gears, then, when the tranny spins, all the grease is mixed and ruins its function.

I used a car for more than 500 packs without black grease in the gears, and from time to time (let's say about 200 packs) I've needed to rebuild the diffs, only for caution, but that's another story.

So many times has appeared this in this thread, but, is maybe ok to refresh to the newcomers:

DON'T put black grease on the gears, these are made from a self lubricant nylon and therefore doesn't need grease. (Team Associated website sic).

For lubricating the one way bearings, I prefeer to use the red lube for bearings from Serpent, it's the best lube that I've used and it sticks to the metal and don't stick in surfaces that shouldn't be lube.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Black grease only goes on the thrust balls (I said balls). The Losi white grease is a very fine grease and will not hurt the gears. It's main purpose is to quite the gears. I do agree with not putting BLACK grease on the gears. You can actually get away without putting any grease on the gears but we have found putting the Losi white helps quite the cars.

wonderboy

Thanks a lot Tony for your suggestions. I sat down and spent some time working on the car to really examine what was going on in the front. My one-way falls right in with no force and spins freely. It was the three shims they say to put behind the pinion that was the source of the noise. It was pushing the gears together too tightly. I experimented some and found that if I removed all the shims it was the most quiet with least amount of resistence. I guess maybe as the car wears out shims might be needed to reduce the slop but no shims works best brand new on my car.

I'm also going to check the rear end. Couldn't hurt to try and free up that side as well. I'm using a small amount of the Stealth grease on my gears, I guess it okay since it does seem to quiet them down.

Thanks again Tony!!!

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Wonderboy: YOU WILL NEED TO USE THE SHIMS!!!!!! It may be free'er without them, but, upon accelleration or if you hit something the chances of stripping one of those 2 gears is extremely high if you have NO shims in it. You'll want the gears to be as close as possible with the smallest amount of backlash as possible.

It may be ok to run with only 2 shims but, again, the chances of stripping are higher without all 3.