65LikesTC3 Forum
03-19-2003, 01:10 PM
#4517
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Haven't tried it yet though... but from my experience with HPI diaphragm it gives quicker rebounds.
Haven't tried it yet though... but from my experience with HPI diaphragm it gives quicker rebounds.
03-19-2003, 01:20 PM
#4518
Tech Master
Just ordered a set through speedtechrc so I'll post results if there is any differance.
03-19-2003, 01:30 PM
#4519
Anyone ever tried springs inside your shocks? Wolfe sells a progressive kingpin spring set for the front of pan cars that work well inside TC shocks with certain tire sizes on smooth high bite tracks. The less shock extension at rideheight, the better the springs worked. The idea is to make sure they are not preloaded at ride height... They let you run a stiffer spring for rebound (outside spring) and thicker oil. Its pretty cool, it handles kinda like an independent swaybar... if there is such a description. I used the Teflon coated (grey) .53 stroke front buggy shocks when i was doing this. I also tried the ASC front end springs for pan cars in varying poundages... but they scored the shock shafts really bad and didnt seem as consistent. Losi also sells some internal springs for the XX-4... but they are only available in one tension. Just thought i would share...
- Dave
- Dave
03-19-2003, 05:37 PM
#4520
Tech Adept
On the topic of heatsinks, my TC3 has the black clamp, and long FT heatsink. So far all I can say is what a waste of 10 bux. It has done nothing but heat the motor more. It cover's the motors vents also, I heard about cutting away taht part and I will try it. It has also gotten tweaked, and doesnt fit the motor that well.
03-19-2003, 06:20 PM
#4521
I agree on the heat sink. Probably does little to remove heat. It does add weight to the proper place on the car, but it could be added lower in the car. Here is a pic of my cut down motor mount clamp.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-24-2003 at 11:01 AM.
03-19-2003, 06:25 PM
#4522
I had read somewhere that the anodizing on the heat sink is one of the problems. A heat sink should not be anodized. Also that it does cover up the vent hole of most motors. I took a dremel cut off wheel and sliced holes inbetween each fin of the heat sink where the motor holes are and also had the anodizing blasted off. It does seam to help on the motor temp. It must do something, because my xray without any heatsink seams to run the motor hotter.
03-19-2003, 06:27 PM
#4523
I was also thinking about using some of that computer fan heat sink dope between the heat sink and motor.
Last edited by theisgroup; 03-19-2003 at 09:07 PM.
03-19-2003, 07:12 PM
#4524
Originally posted by DaveW
Anyone ever tried springs inside your shocks? Wolfe sells a progressive kingpin spring set for the front of pan cars that work well inside TC shocks with certain tire sizes on smooth high bite tracks. The less shock extension at rideheight, the better the springs worked. The idea is to make sure they are not preloaded at ride height... They let you run a stiffer spring for rebound (outside spring) and thicker oil. Its pretty cool, it handles kinda like an independent swaybar... if there is such a description. I used the Teflon coated (grey) .53 stroke front buggy shocks when i was doing this. I also tried the ASC front end springs for pan cars in varying poundages... but they scored the shock shafts really bad and didnt seem as consistent. Losi also sells some internal springs for the XX-4... but they are only available in one tension. Just thought i would share...
- Dave
Anyone ever tried springs inside your shocks? Wolfe sells a progressive kingpin spring set for the front of pan cars that work well inside TC shocks with certain tire sizes on smooth high bite tracks. The less shock extension at rideheight, the better the springs worked. The idea is to make sure they are not preloaded at ride height... They let you run a stiffer spring for rebound (outside spring) and thicker oil. Its pretty cool, it handles kinda like an independent swaybar... if there is such a description. I used the Teflon coated (grey) .53 stroke front buggy shocks when i was doing this. I also tried the ASC front end springs for pan cars in varying poundages... but they scored the shock shafts really bad and didnt seem as consistent. Losi also sells some internal springs for the XX-4... but they are only available in one tension. Just thought i would share...
- Dave
03-19-2003, 07:42 PM
#4525
im just wondering why you guys are cutting your motor clamps down. if you do that it seems you may as well run the assoc. black clamp and get some cooling fins because you usually will need to add weight to that corner of the car anyways. although those cut down clamps do look totally trick!
03-19-2003, 09:00 PM
#4526
Originally posted by spaz456
im just wondering why you guys are cutting your motor clamps down. if you do that it seems you may as well run the assoc. black clamp and get some cooling fins because you usually will need to add weight to that corner of the car anyways. although those cut down clamps do look totally trick!
im just wondering why you guys are cutting your motor clamps down. if you do that it seems you may as well run the assoc. black clamp and get some cooling fins because you usually will need to add weight to that corner of the car anyways. although those cut down clamps do look totally trick!
03-19-2003, 09:23 PM
#4527
Tech Adept
Plus if you want to add weight the best place would be chassis level.
03-19-2003, 10:26 PM
#4528
>Quote<
I had read somewhere that the anodizing on the heat sink is one of the problems. A heat sink should not be anodized. Also that it does cover up the vent hole of most motors. I took a dremel cut off wheel and sliced holes inbetween each fin of the heat sink where the motor holes are and also had the anodizing blasted off. It does seam to help on the motor temp. It must do something, because my xray without any heatsink seams to run the motor hotter.
I agree totally... i have posted pics of my car on here a few times... and you may have noticed the removal of the adonization on the heat sink... it DOES make a notable effect on the cooling ability. I just ground out the flat part at the bottom of the fins... so the fins are still attached at the edges of the sink... but air can move through freely for cooling.
-Dave
I had read somewhere that the anodizing on the heat sink is one of the problems. A heat sink should not be anodized. Also that it does cover up the vent hole of most motors. I took a dremel cut off wheel and sliced holes inbetween each fin of the heat sink where the motor holes are and also had the anodizing blasted off. It does seam to help on the motor temp. It must do something, because my xray without any heatsink seams to run the motor hotter.
I agree totally... i have posted pics of my car on here a few times... and you may have noticed the removal of the adonization on the heat sink... it DOES make a notable effect on the cooling ability. I just ground out the flat part at the bottom of the fins... so the fins are still attached at the edges of the sink... but air can move through freely for cooling.
-Dave
03-20-2003, 04:28 AM
#4529
Has anyone tried to put spacers between the motor and the motor cam to let air pass easier trough the end of the motor?
Or how about milling larger holes in the can, would that ruin the motor or making it illegal?
-BTW: DHI stands for Dansk(Danish) Hobby Import
Or how about milling larger holes in the can, would that ruin the motor or making it illegal?
-BTW: DHI stands for Dansk(Danish) Hobby Import
03-20-2003, 06:40 AM
#4530
ok i get it now thanks. but couldnt you just cut the back out of the clamp and still run cooling fins to pull some extra heat away?
but couldnt you just cut the back out of the clamp and still run cooling fins to pull some extra heat away?