InspGadgt

I would just go to stiffer springs up front. Are you sure your running the same tires as Keiji and Bob?

MaxSp97

iTrader: (5)

Here is my F104.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/6500026-post1380.html

Metla

Did you do anything else to it apart from removing that section of top plate?

Stock T-bar?,tires?

Do you run against other f104's, and if so doers yours handle better?


Being on a budget I like the idea of a mod that costs nothing, But its a pretty drastic mod.....

FREAKAH

I think I found the problem!

The problem I was having with my car was that the car was "hooking". It seemed like as I turned in, the car would continue turning and smack the pipe even as I tried to correct. Later at home while going through the car I found that the front suspension/kingpin would lock and bind throughout it's travel, especially with the wheels turned. It would even lock at full compression on the right side which would explain the nasty hook. I sprayed some heavy duty silicone spray into a cup and applied some drops to the kingpins and balls with small hex wrench and the problem went away. I guess that's what happens when you run the kingpins dry. I was planning on applying some heavy silicone grease to the kingpin for some dampening effect which would have prevented the problem but I was in a rush to get the car done so I forgot.
Come to think of it, it has to be the reason why the car would skip an jiggle over the small bumps. The binding suspension just wouldn't absorb the bumps.

Now i'm thinking about getting the titanium coated kingpin and low friction suspension balls just to make sure I get no problems with binding.

FREAKAH

Cool! I may have to try that.

What's holding the front of the pack in?

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

I left the front part of the top deck intact -- the part that holds the battery retainer. The section behind that is cut out:

jhberger

iTrader: (1)

The Ride wheels are almost 2mm smaller in diameter than the Tamiya wheels. This is no prob in the rear, but in the front, I just slipped a Ride wheel on and the lower part of kingpin interferes with the wheel by about 1mm.

I'm thinking of putting a spacer under the kingpin clip on top of the A-arm -- that should make enough clearance, but it will limit travel by 1mm.

Has anyone done this? Any handling problems?

Hyper_Mike

iTrader: (8)

Hey all,

Our local club is trying to get a rubber tire F1 class started (indoor carpet) and I was thinking of picking up an F60 but I had a few questions.

Does the F60 differ from the F104 Pro only in chassis material and lack of "blue bling"?

Does it have the same diff design of the F104 that allows you to take off the right rear wheel without disassembling the diff? What about the ride height adjustment?

I apologize in advance if this has been covered before but a cursory search didn't turn up much.

Cheers,
Mike

badboy

iTrader: (14)

hi.

what tamiya rubber tire combination will work well on carpet?

thanks.

robk

iTrader: (22)

The F60 axle is like 103 axle-the tire carries the thrust parts. Other than that, it's like the pro. I don't think you get the shock either.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

My recentley aquired F104 F60, from the TCS regional has the F103 style rear axle as robk mentioned.
Other differences are plastic motor/gearbox side plates, plastic diff hub and plastic bushings that go in it and monster sized pitch on the spur/pinion combo and metal bushings for the front wheels.
Also plastic pivot balls in the front end assembly.
So you'll need to replace all that stuff as well as the plastic non oil "boinger" shock.
Don't get me wrong, mine was a trophy so I can't beotch but it'll take some stuff to make it a race car.
The body is sick! Very cool.

It's built and ready to run, can't decide on paint tho.

Another red Ferrari?
It's got all the right stickers.

Taman

iTrader: (67)

is it worth putting the screws in the side pods to keep them secured to the main body or just use double sided tape?

thanks

Oortael

If you fix 'em they will take a hit into the wall without comming off.

Hyper_Mike

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the replies regarding the rear axle and diff design on the F60!

I was simply thinking that the FRP chassis of the F60 might be better suited for rubber-tire carpet racing as it should flex significantly more than the thick carbon chassis on the Pro and there seem to be a number of comments on here about how poor the Pro works with rubber tires on carpet.

This is what I was thinking of:

F60 + axle & diff from Pro + Shimizu or Ride rubber

I already have a TRF shock and Al or Ti steering links I can use on it.

For anybody that has gone down this road, does this sound reasonable? Am I thinking about this correctly?

Cheers,
Mike

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I just finished mine the other day and ran it today.
I used "Shoe Goo" to secure the sidepods in a few spots (love this stuff, dries like hard rubber) and also the mirrors attatch with screws and those are the only ones I used.
It's holding up great.

If I'm not mistaken, carpet likes the stiff chassis and asphalt likes the flex.
That is how I've always set up my car.
Carpet and asphalt are opposites.

Carpet gives mondo traction, too much, so adding flex to the chassis would add even more.
Stiffen it up so it will "slide" and rotate rather than "stick" and traction roll.
Kinda like a sway bar effect, add sway bar and lose traction on that end.
Am I right?

Asphalt is usually loose in the rear so add flex to soften up the rear and plant it more and create a push then dial steering back in a little at a time.

Gotta have the PERFECT tires tho or nothing is gonna work.

Anyone?