Courtney Marine Corps Base Off-Road Track Okinawa Japan
12-09-2009, 04:13 PM
#496
Tech Initiate
So how do the KO PRO personal transponders work? From what I have been reading the work on an RF versus a magnet like the AMB. Do they have RF crystals in them? If so, are they still powered by the 3rd channel and how do I know which one to get so I don't have the freq that someone else has? Do they sell a set of crystals with for them or will the track provide the different crystals so we can all run together?
It makes me think of the old tyco racer days when you couldn't run with your buddy because you were both on the same freq.
It makes me think of the old tyco racer days when you couldn't run with your buddy because you were both on the same freq.
12-09-2009, 04:40 PM
#497
FOR SALE 1/8 Nitro Buggy
SOLD SOLD SOLD FOR SALE: Kyosho 777 SP2/SP1
1 Buggy is full up and ready to go, just finished a rework that included; new inner and outer wheel bearings, clutch, all diffs rebuilt (5 7 2), shocks rebuilt (45, 35 fluid), new motor. STS .21, a good motor at a good price, installed and not even turned over yet, needs break in. Brand new tuned pipe and header, also from STS. Kings Head up grades all the way around, front and rear uprights, chassis braces, new one piece motor mount. New fuel line throughout, Will include one set of good tires. The only thing this car will need is a Receiver. New 1400mah receiver battery.
NOTE: The main difference between the SP1 &SP2 is the center diff is moved forward slightly on the SP2( which makes the front and rear drive shafts different lengths), and a different chassis. This buggy has all the upgrades but has the SP1 chassis. I have 2 SP2 chassis if you want to reconfigure.
I have a second complete 777 that can be gone through and put on track in short order. It needs to be gone through and have shocks and diffs rebuilt.
I will include all my old .21 motors which include, 2 or 3 Novarossi , a couple of STS .21, and an original O.S. V- Spec with very little run time but has carb issues. No guarantees , on any motors except the one installed. Two of the Novarossi have good pinch but need some work to seal them up and carb rebuild.
More spare parts than I care to list, but enough to maintain a buggy for a race season……and more.
Older Ofna starter box with ProTek Quick Start plate installed that is made for the 777, 12vdc Gel cell battery, only 1 yr old and I have a brand new battery as well.
Several bodies, some beat up but all usable. If needed I can throw in a temp gage and a glow starter and I have numerous glow plugs, air filters…..and the list goes on. One unopened can of Cosmos 20% fuel.
This setup as served me well for about 3 years, it is a proven A-main buggy……driven by a B-main driver.
Everything goes as a packaged deal……….. $625 OBO SOLD
1 Buggy is full up and ready to go, just finished a rework that included; new inner and outer wheel bearings, clutch, all diffs rebuilt (5 7 2), shocks rebuilt (45, 35 fluid), new motor. STS .21, a good motor at a good price, installed and not even turned over yet, needs break in. Brand new tuned pipe and header, also from STS. Kings Head up grades all the way around, front and rear uprights, chassis braces, new one piece motor mount. New fuel line throughout, Will include one set of good tires. The only thing this car will need is a Receiver. New 1400mah receiver battery.
NOTE: The main difference between the SP1 &SP2 is the center diff is moved forward slightly on the SP2( which makes the front and rear drive shafts different lengths), and a different chassis. This buggy has all the upgrades but has the SP1 chassis. I have 2 SP2 chassis if you want to reconfigure.
I have a second complete 777 that can be gone through and put on track in short order. It needs to be gone through and have shocks and diffs rebuilt.
I will include all my old .21 motors which include, 2 or 3 Novarossi , a couple of STS .21, and an original O.S. V- Spec with very little run time but has carb issues. No guarantees , on any motors except the one installed. Two of the Novarossi have good pinch but need some work to seal them up and carb rebuild.
More spare parts than I care to list, but enough to maintain a buggy for a race season……and more.
Older Ofna starter box with ProTek Quick Start plate installed that is made for the 777, 12vdc Gel cell battery, only 1 yr old and I have a brand new battery as well.
Several bodies, some beat up but all usable. If needed I can throw in a temp gage and a glow starter and I have numerous glow plugs, air filters…..and the list goes on. One unopened can of Cosmos 20% fuel.
This setup as served me well for about 3 years, it is a proven A-main buggy……driven by a B-main driver.
Everything goes as a packaged deal……….. $625 OBO SOLD
Last edited by bando711; 12-09-2009 at 07:37 PM.
12-09-2009, 05:09 PM
#498
Matt,
We were able to get the FD to give us 300' of hose Sunday and no problem with the hydrant. We need another 300' and we can do the track with just the hose.
We had 10 drivers in the Amain at one of the on road races. So we know we can have at least 10 crystals. If someone is running AM/FM it will pick up that so they don't even need transponders, they do plug into the 3rd channel on the receiver. Most of us guys are now running 2.4 systems, which is why we have the ponders.
Typical track management will avoid cross signals, whether ponder or radio. We often have to change crystals when getting to the mains. I use Japanese channel 6 and 65 in my two cars.
Matt's suggestion of putting the timer at the far left turn is the best, I think we can trench it and put some of the orange tube in for the wires to run through.
thinking of pit exit just pass the apex of the far right turn, it'll take a little more tube but would prevent buggy to buggy crashes. the pit entrance would be just past where the driver stand is??? thinking you don't want drivers leaning over to see their car in pit row...
We were able to get the FD to give us 300' of hose Sunday and no problem with the hydrant. We need another 300' and we can do the track with just the hose.
We had 10 drivers in the Amain at one of the on road races. So we know we can have at least 10 crystals. If someone is running AM/FM it will pick up that so they don't even need transponders, they do plug into the 3rd channel on the receiver. Most of us guys are now running 2.4 systems, which is why we have the ponders.
Typical track management will avoid cross signals, whether ponder or radio. We often have to change crystals when getting to the mains. I use Japanese channel 6 and 65 in my two cars.
Matt's suggestion of putting the timer at the far left turn is the best, I think we can trench it and put some of the orange tube in for the wires to run through.
thinking of pit exit just pass the apex of the far right turn, it'll take a little more tube but would prevent buggy to buggy crashes. the pit entrance would be just past where the driver stand is??? thinking you don't want drivers leaning over to see their car in pit row...
12-09-2009, 05:18 PM
#499
FOR SALE BRUSHLESS REVO
Less than a year old with only 1-2 hour run time on it. List of upgrades and mods: Originally an E-revo RTR, upgraded to a brushless lipo system. Has a EZrun 80 amp system installed, runs great and has plenty of power, I have not experienced any overheating of motor or ESC. Fans installed on both Motor and ESC, both bolt right in to the stock mounting holes. Clean install.
Will include two 30c 5800mah Lipos, not sure of the brand but are lower priced items from China, I have ran them 2-3 times with no issues.
Just installed full set of RPM A-arms with the Rear True track Conversion. Center diff installed, 500k fluid, reverse still works. Front and rear sway bars installed, single steering servo mod done with a few tweaks on the steering. You won’t find a monster truck that turns better than this. Aluminum bottom skid plates front and rear, plus the originals plastic one, with spares.
Have all the original motors and ESC along with mounting plate and cover, all like new with only two runs on them. 23mm conversion on the tires, comes with two sets of 23mm (40 series)tires plus the originals. Two bodies, one brand new one with my green /black ProGraphics paint scheme.
Spare parts, hear is the BONUS, I have a complete Nitro Revo that comes in the deal. Everything you need to put it on the track is there, including a 2.5 motor or the big block conversion that will allow a .21 install. This truck is used and at times abused, but all front and rear assemblies , and diffs will bolt right onto the E-revo, bottom line the E-Revo comes with a full set of spares. Many spare parts!!
Bump box starter for the Nitro truck, many spur gears and a few different pinions,
Only thing E-Revo needs to be race ready is a receiver.
I have over $700 just in the E-revo not counting the spares or the Nirto truck……
First $650 takes it all
Less than a year old with only 1-2 hour run time on it. List of upgrades and mods: Originally an E-revo RTR, upgraded to a brushless lipo system. Has a EZrun 80 amp system installed, runs great and has plenty of power, I have not experienced any overheating of motor or ESC. Fans installed on both Motor and ESC, both bolt right in to the stock mounting holes. Clean install.
Will include two 30c 5800mah Lipos, not sure of the brand but are lower priced items from China, I have ran them 2-3 times with no issues.
Just installed full set of RPM A-arms with the Rear True track Conversion. Center diff installed, 500k fluid, reverse still works. Front and rear sway bars installed, single steering servo mod done with a few tweaks on the steering. You won’t find a monster truck that turns better than this. Aluminum bottom skid plates front and rear, plus the originals plastic one, with spares.
Have all the original motors and ESC along with mounting plate and cover, all like new with only two runs on them. 23mm conversion on the tires, comes with two sets of 23mm (40 series)tires plus the originals. Two bodies, one brand new one with my green /black ProGraphics paint scheme.
Spare parts, hear is the BONUS, I have a complete Nitro Revo that comes in the deal. Everything you need to put it on the track is there, including a 2.5 motor or the big block conversion that will allow a .21 install. This truck is used and at times abused, but all front and rear assemblies , and diffs will bolt right onto the E-revo, bottom line the E-Revo comes with a full set of spares. Many spare parts!!
Bump box starter for the Nitro truck, many spur gears and a few different pinions,
Only thing E-Revo needs to be race ready is a receiver.
I have over $700 just in the E-revo not counting the spares or the Nirto truck……
First $650 takes it all
Last edited by bando711; 12-10-2009 at 02:46 AM.
12-09-2009, 05:29 PM
#500
Anthony and I were talking about the placement of the timing wire and were looking at the front straight to about were the first jump starts. This would work for the 1/10 scale track as well, we would put a wire at the left corner area there. This would allow running races on both without having to move the computer system. My thoughts on the pit row, enter at the turn on the far left, traffic should be slowed down for the turn. Exit about the middle of the straight before the timing wire, no matter where it goes it is ultimately up to the drivers to not pull out into oncoming traffic. Just my 2 cents
12-09-2009, 05:46 PM
#501
Kyosho v-one RRR FOR SALE
If anyone is interested in a 1/10 scale on road Nitro touring car, let me know. I have a like new Kyosho V-one RRR up for sale CHEAP. Motor bump box new body........ I suck at on-road driving!! Come to think of it I suck at off-road as well.........hmm
12-09-2009, 05:56 PM
#502
Don't think I have quit
When you see all the stuff I have for sale don't think I am getting out of the RC game.........just got WAY TOO MUCH stuff.
Cars I will have left
Fusion buggy, two Losi MF2 stadium trucks, two Slashes, two 1/18 AE 18r's,Tamiya TA05-IFS, DF-03
Cars I am looking at, in no particular order:
Caster Nitro Buggy or Truggy, Brushless Truggy, Baja 5T, a 1/10 4wd buggy. The wife will be running the DF-03
Cars I will have left
Fusion buggy, two Losi MF2 stadium trucks, two Slashes, two 1/18 AE 18r's,Tamiya TA05-IFS, DF-03
Cars I am looking at, in no particular order:
Caster Nitro Buggy or Truggy, Brushless Truggy, Baja 5T, a 1/10 4wd buggy. The wife will be running the DF-03
12-09-2009, 07:12 PM
#503
Tech Initiate
Hey Ken, I see that you are looking for a brushless truggy. I have one that I am trying to sell and here is as good a place as any. I am asking no less than $800.00. I have over two grand invested in it if you price it all out yourself. Everything runs perfectly and it has been rebuilt with almost all new plastics, diffs rebuilt, and shocks rebuilt as well. A whole slew of spare parts to rebuild just about everything. I have paypal so just hit me up if anyone is interested. I only charge what the post office charges for shipping so I can give you a quote as well.
Here is what it comes with:
Jammin X2 CRT $519.99 (for the brushless conversion)
Tekno R/C brushless conversion $129.95
Custom painted body by Justin Peoples of UKL $75.00 (few scratches but in decent shape still)
Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless 2200kv ESC/Motor $296.99
Ace R/C DS1313 servo for braking $77.99
JR Z9700T servo for steering $119.99
Lundsford titanium turnbuckle $89.99
Aluminum front C-blocks $40.00
4 Turnigy 4000 30c 4s1p lipos Dean’s connectors $200.00 (cycled and balanced every time)
2 Flightmax 4400mAh 15c 3s1p lipos $50.00 Dean’s connectors (run them in parallel and put the 16 tooth pinion on and it will go for quite some time, about 22 mins)
Imax 8 cell lipo DC charger with balancer $60.00
Lipo charging burn resistant bag $25.00
Parallel connector to run batteries in truggy for 8000mAh on the 4s1p or 8800mAh on the 3s1p $15.00
New A arms all around with new rear bearing hubs
New wing mount
All diffs rebuilt F10,000/C20,000/R5,000
Shocks rebuilt F50/R45 with grey springs
6 sets of tires all ½ inch offset: 2 Losi reptile (one new one with 60% life), 1 Losi XTT with 85% life, 1 Panther Gators with 80% life, 1 AKA Cityblock with 40% life, 1 Proline Crimefighter with 70% life.
On top of all the major stuff above you will get the following too!
3 center diffs
3 front/rear diffs (one needs to be rebuilt, spider gears are shot)
Extra wheel hexes
Extra set of front and rear shock mounts
3 sets of steering knuckles, (one set CNC and two sets cast)
4 bevel gears for diffs
12, 13, and 16 pinion for motor (13 is mounted on motor already)
Extra mud guards, one set used carbon fiber still in good condition
2 complete steering Ackerman’s assembly with servo saver
Front and rear A arms top and bottom, (some new some used with life still left in them)
2 complete wing mounts, (one new, one used still in good condition)
Front and rear C blocks and bearing hubs
3 diff cases, (one new and two used still in good condition)
Complete set of front and rear big bore shocks with rebuild parts assortment
Center diff housing with new set of breaks
4 CVDs for front or rear used but in good condition
2 new fans for motor
Extra set of captured hinge pins for all four corners
Original steel turnbuckles, (all around)
Transponder mount
Random bag of plastic ball ends for steering and turnbuckles
Castle Link for ESC, (program can be downloaded at http://www.castlecreations.com/downloads.html
Here is what it comes with:
Jammin X2 CRT $519.99 (for the brushless conversion)
Tekno R/C brushless conversion $129.95
Custom painted body by Justin Peoples of UKL $75.00 (few scratches but in decent shape still)
Castle Creations Mamba Monster brushless 2200kv ESC/Motor $296.99
Ace R/C DS1313 servo for braking $77.99
JR Z9700T servo for steering $119.99
Lundsford titanium turnbuckle $89.99
Aluminum front C-blocks $40.00
4 Turnigy 4000 30c 4s1p lipos Dean’s connectors $200.00 (cycled and balanced every time)
2 Flightmax 4400mAh 15c 3s1p lipos $50.00 Dean’s connectors (run them in parallel and put the 16 tooth pinion on and it will go for quite some time, about 22 mins)
Imax 8 cell lipo DC charger with balancer $60.00
Lipo charging burn resistant bag $25.00
Parallel connector to run batteries in truggy for 8000mAh on the 4s1p or 8800mAh on the 3s1p $15.00
New A arms all around with new rear bearing hubs
New wing mount
All diffs rebuilt F10,000/C20,000/R5,000
Shocks rebuilt F50/R45 with grey springs
6 sets of tires all ½ inch offset: 2 Losi reptile (one new one with 60% life), 1 Losi XTT with 85% life, 1 Panther Gators with 80% life, 1 AKA Cityblock with 40% life, 1 Proline Crimefighter with 70% life.
On top of all the major stuff above you will get the following too!
3 center diffs
3 front/rear diffs (one needs to be rebuilt, spider gears are shot)
Extra wheel hexes
Extra set of front and rear shock mounts
3 sets of steering knuckles, (one set CNC and two sets cast)
4 bevel gears for diffs
12, 13, and 16 pinion for motor (13 is mounted on motor already)
Extra mud guards, one set used carbon fiber still in good condition
2 complete steering Ackerman’s assembly with servo saver
Front and rear A arms top and bottom, (some new some used with life still left in them)
2 complete wing mounts, (one new, one used still in good condition)
Front and rear C blocks and bearing hubs
3 diff cases, (one new and two used still in good condition)
Complete set of front and rear big bore shocks with rebuild parts assortment
Center diff housing with new set of breaks
4 CVDs for front or rear used but in good condition
2 new fans for motor
Extra set of captured hinge pins for all four corners
Original steel turnbuckles, (all around)
Transponder mount
Random bag of plastic ball ends for steering and turnbuckles
Castle Link for ESC, (program can be downloaded at http://www.castlecreations.com/downloads.html
12-09-2009, 07:43 PM
#504
Matt, that is a lot of stuff. Sounds like a grest price. I'm still looking, if I go with a truggy it will be the same brand as my buggy.
12-09-2009, 07:48 PM
#505
Tech Initiate
Yeah, I know what you are saying. I switched to Mugen and now I am off loading my Jammin stuff. Great deal, great truggy, I just don't need it anymore and it could pay for a buggy for me too. hahaha
12-09-2009, 08:42 PM
#507
Tech Initiate
Finally found the drawing of the track and it looks like a great setup. I would say put it in the bottom left for sure. There may be too much speed carried down the straight that may create problems if it is at the end of the straight. With it being at the begining it will help at the start of the mains as well. Doing a numbered start on the straight would put everyone down at the begining of the track after checking in.
I take it that the driver's stand is going to be centered on the track. Has there been any problems with any blind spots that can be foreseen anywhere on the track? Also when the sun rises or sets will it be staring you in the face?
I take it that the driver's stand is going to be centered on the track. Has there been any problems with any blind spots that can be foreseen anywhere on the track? Also when the sun rises or sets will it be staring you in the face?
12-09-2009, 09:08 PM
#508
We must decide on the pit lane before we can decide the timer. The pit entrance, In my opinion, should be on the far left, as you exit the corner, either pit or go down the straight. Any other entrance on the front straight will have cars slowing down on the fastest section to pit, causing a big issue with cars that are not pitting. If you enter the pit on the far left the timing wire needs to to the right of the pit exit...........which would be about where the first jump is for the triple. I have never seen cars going too fast to be counted on a straight......and this location should eliminate false reading as people bounce and roll into the front straight as they miss judge the triple.
Jon your just mad cause you don't have anything left worth selling!!
Jon your just mad cause you don't have anything left worth selling!!
12-10-2009, 12:16 AM
#509
12-10-2009, 12:27 AM
#510
Tech Addict
When you see all the stuff I have for sale don't think I am getting out of the RC game.........just got WAY TOO MUCH stuff.
Cars I will have left
Fusion buggy, two Losi MF2 stadium trucks, two Slashes, two 1/18 AE 18r's,Tamiya TA05-IFS, DF-03
Cars I am looking at, in no particular order:
Caster Nitro Buggy or Truggy, Brushless Truggy, Baja 5T, a 1/10 4wd buggy. The wife will be running the DF-03
Cars I will have left
Fusion buggy, two Losi MF2 stadium trucks, two Slashes, two 1/18 AE 18r's,Tamiya TA05-IFS, DF-03
Cars I am looking at, in no particular order:
Caster Nitro Buggy or Truggy, Brushless Truggy, Baja 5T, a 1/10 4wd buggy. The wife will be running the DF-03
I'd a thought you'd be looking at the Kyosho MP9 or Xray over the Caster. Even still, I'll always think of you as a die hard Kyosho fan, he he he. Either way, good luck with whatever you decide (hope it's some sort of Nitro Buggy).
As for the timing wire/pit lane - don't really have an opinion. Maybe use both ideas...have the timing wire/pit entry on the last corner going into the straight, but have a long pit exit lane that feeds into the straight like 5-10 feet before the hairpin. Should lessen the chance of folks already on the straight hitting the guys on pit exit cause they should already be up to similar speed, and then they both have to brake for the hairpin.
Just my 2 cents (which is worth about a half a Yen at the moment)
- Paulie