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http://www.land-and-sea.com/images/d...yno_rc-car.htm

DynoMoHum

Ahh... Is there any other information about that little RC chassis dyno?

BTW... Like it or not... the Track is NOT a dyno...

The track introduces alot of variables into the mix, and make it virtualy impossible for most people to tell a good motor from a bad motor by doing just track testing.

Even a chassis dyno intoduces variables into the mix... the drag of the drive train for instance...

I'd rather test my motors by themselves an not introduce other variables into the mix.

Robitronic gets my vote for best RC dyno available today. CE TurboDyno would be second on my list, even though it's not made today, it's available...

Greg Anthony

iTrader: (4)

Dyno, but is a great motor is on a crapy car, who cares! I'd take a ok motor in a good car any day of the week... Do you hear NASCAR crew cheifs complain because their dyno doesn't produce as good a numbers and nother teams... remember, the best motor doesn't always win...

Peter Busch

I had a Robitronics and have, for sale, a Turbo Dyno. Both are great but the Turbo Dyno was more consistant and by far easier to understand the data. Check the for sale section if your interested.

DynoMoHum

Good example of why the track is not a good dyno Greg...

I bet I could give Greg a motor with 10% less power then a motor I had, put both in identical cars... and I bet Greg would whoop my butt on the track...

DynoMoHum

I should also add... that I bet if someone gave me two stock motors, one good and one not so good... I could tell Greg which one he would go faster with on the track...

I could also probably tell him he'd beat me no matter which one he used Heck I could run a 10 turn, and Greg would likely beat me with a Stock motor...

Greg Anthony

iTrader: (4)

Glen, you crack me up!!! did you notice that at regionals I never touched my motors for the first day and a half untill i got somewhere close to the chassis balance i was looking for, then started applying a little power to the situation...

DynoMoHum

No, I didn't notice, I was kinda busy myself... I spent the first two days building my chassis, then re-building it after it went full speed into the boards... (not my fault by the way...) I don't know if I dynoed a single motor that whole weekend... I may have, but I know for sure I spent less time on my motors that weekend then anything esle.

I totaly understand it takes a good chassis to go fast... and the worlds best motor won't make a crappy car go fast...

I just think a dyno is a tool to check motors, and it should only check the motor...

JohnA

All these 'the track is the best dyno!' posts aren't helping Sosidge, he appears to be looking at tuning and selling motors, if he does three heats and a final using the track as a dyno the motors will need skimming when you get them and be $200 each

DynoMoHum

Every dyno owner is going to tell you that their favorite is the best... I'm no exception.

I could give you a long list of reasons I like the Robi, etc... Others could do the same for their favorite...

I suggest that if Sosidge wants to know more about my opion he contact me by email. [email protected] ... I would be willing to give many details about my reasons for liking the Robi... and what I dislike about other options...


One could argue that Fantom is the best choice because that is what Trinity uses... Make your numbers a little higher then what Trinitys are, and tell everyone your motors are best, etc...

I still beleive that technicaly, the Robi is the best option... with the CE TD second choice.

sosidge

I'm willing to believe the Robi is the best choice - however it's also twice the price of the CS Power Checker, with no obvious difference. If you could explain what makes it worth twice, I would appreciate it. If you don't want to post on open forum, pm or email me.

DynoMoHum

The main differance between the CS power check and the Robi... The Robitronic has a internal voltage regulator that is adjustable from 4 to 8 volts, the CS PowerCheck does not.

The CS PC, is designed to use a battery pack as the main power to the test motor. They market this as a positve thing. The idea they promote is that you check the motor with the same type of power source the motor will see in the vehicle it is used in. This may have some value to a racer, but in my humble opion, it is a bad thing for a motor tuner...

The reason it's bad for a motor tuner... As the battery pack dischages, the voltage will drop. With every dyno run, the motor potentialy sees a differnt voltage. This make it difficult, if not impossible to know for sure if the change in power output of the test motor is due to the motor changing, or due to the voltage changing at the power souce (the battery pack).

The Robitronic maintians a consistant voltage from one run to the next. Notice I did not say CONSTANT... The robi voltage changes with the load placed on it... However it is consistant from one run to the next, at any given load... Like say at 30 amps... If I set my Robi to 6 volts... the motor will see 4.2 volts at a 30 amp load... Put another motor on there... 4.2 volts at 30 amp load... consistant... At 20 amp load the voltage will be higher, say maybe 4.5 volts, etc... Robi claims they 'simulate' the voltage drop of a NiCd battery... (If that's what they attemp to do, they don't really do a very good job, but that's a seperate issue)...

Now... People who use CS PowerCheck dynos do lots of things to get around the problems presented by the fact that it doesn't regulate voltage internaly... Some use 6 volt Lead acid batteies, some use two NiMh packs in parrallel... some constantly peak the batteries they use, etc... Some people find solutions to the issue...

My solution... is to use a Robitronic... you can adjust the voltage without finding a differnt power source, etc....

The flaw with the Robi's NiCd 'simulation'... I get around it by rasing the voltage up so I get the voltage I want at the load I am most concerned with... The only problem here is... rais the Robi's setting to it's max 8 volts... and at 30 amp load, you get about 6.9 volts... that's as high as it will go. Nothings perfect...

The higher the voltage you test with, the harder it is on the motor... So, I personaly don't really mind that I can only get the Robi up to 6.9 volts at a 30 amp load...


There are pros and cons to each dyno... For instance... Test a motor at 7 volts on a Turbo dyno about 5 times, and you'll need to re-build the motor... Testing at that voltage, is really hard on a motor, perticularly when you force it to set with a 30 amp load for a second or so...

My biggest problem with the CE TD... is... It's almost impossible to find the point of peak power. You can do it on some motors, but it requires some effort. In the end... I feel the CE TD only gives you a small view of the operating range of a RC motor... Some people can do wonderfull things looking at motors though this limited view...

I personaly perfer to see how the motor profoms from 0 to max RPM... I feel I get a better understading from this...

Many you got me to type all that didn't you?

Seriously... all dynos have good points and bad... At some point you have to weigh each item, and figure out how much its' worth to you...

I bought my Robitronic used about 3 years ago... I owned a CE TurboDyno for about 6 months about 2 years ago... I've used friends Fantom dynos... I've looked closely at CS power check data, and I know how inconsistant battery packs can be as power sources... I sold my TurboDyno... The guy I sold it too loves it... I love my Robitronic.

DynoMoHum

Oh... if you notice I didn't say much about the Fantom... That's because I really haven't much good to say about it. Simply put... I don't trust it.

sosidge

Thankyou, that's very interesting, and clears a lot up. What I've been looking for is first hand experience of Dyno's. and you clearly have that.

Any CS Power Check owners out that there would like to reply?

roaddog

I own a CS Power Check Dyno. I have owned a Fantom and used a CE and Robi dyno as well. In my opinion they are all good dynos if you know what to look for and what works best at your track so you can tune it for that. I really like theh CS for a few reasons. First is its size. You can bring it anywhere in its small self contained case. If you dont own a laptop you can still use it, it will provide all the necessary info you need just not on a graph. The computer software is free and provides alot of info. You don't have to carry a large battery around to power it. I usually do about 10 runs on a battery pack before I repeak it. I havent noticed any difference from 1-10 runs so that is where I stay. And I also like the fact that If I want to check a motor on a pack that you use to run I can and see how it preforms.

They all have plus's and minus's. You won't go wrong with any of them they all do what there supposed to do, check motors! Hope this helps.