57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
10-30-2012, 01:48 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
If I unplug the servo then it is fine. I can plug the servo back in and it is fine. Moving the steering really slow it is fine, just when you transition the servo back and forth a little fast does it brown it out. I think it is a bad design of the internal bec. The smaller things get it seems the more problems, but it will get worked out. I am going to the store to get a 4700 16v capacitor to throw on here and that should take care of the problem.
10-30-2012, 03:12 AM
Tech Regular
Lord knows why you're all having issues with these speedos... I've never once had an issue with a speed control since I started in the hobby 10 year ago.
Odd.
Odd.
10-30-2012, 03:57 AM
10-30-2012, 04:24 AM
FFS
Nobody are having issues,just sharing settings,and helping with all new hardware.
FYI this is the fastest esc on the market and the best software that's only getting better.
So in other words,nobody needs un-educated opinions or people who don't want to contribute to a great forum.
10-30-2012, 05:06 AM
Tech Regular
It wasn't a dig at this Speedo you backwards cretin. I own one. All I ever seem to see with Speedos on this forum are issue after issue. Ust stating its odd that so many have issues. Guess I must have good luck with them!
10-30-2012, 05:34 AM
Hi people.
My club has an endurance race coming up in December. Its nothing super long, only doing 30mins. The class is typically 17.5 boosted, and I have a really good esc setup for that right now, the car is an absolute weapon.
But there's no way my current setup is going to do 30mins. Even if it could do it from a heat perspective, 6mins costs me about 2800mah. So after 12mins my largest packs being 6900mah are going to be pretty tired.
I think most of the guys are going to run blinky. But I feel running a much softer boost profile might be the ticket. I'm just not sure how to acheive the right balance there, or where I should be looking to modify my profile to keep the temps low enough to make 30mins, but also make the packs last long enough to get away with a one stop strategy, or 2 stop at worst.
The track is a large outdoor asphalt track, with med-low grip. The run will be during summer, but even on a warmer day my current setup wont crack 80*C. It has a long section of track that is full throttle, essentially sweeper on and off the straight and obviously the straight itself.
My current setup is:
44 Boost
20 Turbo
First notch on a D3
350rpm/deg
4000 start
.1 delay
DDRS 8
5.35 FDR
Hot lap of 18.0 for me, fastest guys just under the 18, slowest in the 20s
So any suggestion of how I can change what I have to lower temps for a longer run, and improve the efficiency would be awesome.
My club has an endurance race coming up in December. Its nothing super long, only doing 30mins. The class is typically 17.5 boosted, and I have a really good esc setup for that right now, the car is an absolute weapon.
But there's no way my current setup is going to do 30mins. Even if it could do it from a heat perspective, 6mins costs me about 2800mah. So after 12mins my largest packs being 6900mah are going to be pretty tired.
I think most of the guys are going to run blinky. But I feel running a much softer boost profile might be the ticket. I'm just not sure how to acheive the right balance there, or where I should be looking to modify my profile to keep the temps low enough to make 30mins, but also make the packs last long enough to get away with a one stop strategy, or 2 stop at worst.
The track is a large outdoor asphalt track, with med-low grip. The run will be during summer, but even on a warmer day my current setup wont crack 80*C. It has a long section of track that is full throttle, essentially sweeper on and off the straight and obviously the straight itself.
My current setup is:
44 Boost
20 Turbo
First notch on a D3
350rpm/deg
4000 start
.1 delay
DDRS 8
5.35 FDR
Hot lap of 18.0 for me, fastest guys just under the 18, slowest in the 20s
So any suggestion of how I can change what I have to lower temps for a longer run, and improve the efficiency would be awesome.
10-30-2012, 06:06 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
I use an Align 620 servos in all my cars. They are the same as the savox 1257/1258. I use it with my LPF 2.0 and gtb2 with no problems. I put the capacitor in and it solved the problem.
10-30-2012, 06:44 AM
Long races
Hi people.
My club has an endurance race coming up in December. Its nothing super long, only doing 30mins. The class is typically 17.5 boosted, and I have a really good esc setup for that right now, the car is an absolute weapon.
But there's no way my current setup is going to do 30mins. Even if it could do it from a heat perspective, 6mins costs me about 2800mah. So after 12mins my largest packs being 6900mah are going to be pretty tired.
I think most of the guys are going to run blinky. But I feel running a much softer boost profile might be the ticket. I'm just not sure how to acheive the right balance there, or where I should be looking to modify my profile to keep the temps low enough to make 30mins, but also make the packs last long enough to get away with a one stop strategy, or 2 stop at worst.
The track is a large outdoor asphalt track, with med-low grip. The run will be during summer, but even on a warmer day my current setup wont crack 80*C. It has a long section of track that is full throttle, essentially sweeper on and off the straight and obviously the straight itself.
My current setup is:
44 Boost
20 Turbo
First notch on a D3
350rpm/deg
4000 start
.1 delay
DDRS 8
5.35 FDR
Hot lap of 18.0 for me, fastest guys just under the 18, slowest in the 20s
So any suggestion of how I can change what I have to lower temps for a longer run, and improve the efficiency would be awesome.
My club has an endurance race coming up in December. Its nothing super long, only doing 30mins. The class is typically 17.5 boosted, and I have a really good esc setup for that right now, the car is an absolute weapon.
But there's no way my current setup is going to do 30mins. Even if it could do it from a heat perspective, 6mins costs me about 2800mah. So after 12mins my largest packs being 6900mah are going to be pretty tired.
I think most of the guys are going to run blinky. But I feel running a much softer boost profile might be the ticket. I'm just not sure how to acheive the right balance there, or where I should be looking to modify my profile to keep the temps low enough to make 30mins, but also make the packs last long enough to get away with a one stop strategy, or 2 stop at worst.
The track is a large outdoor asphalt track, with med-low grip. The run will be during summer, but even on a warmer day my current setup wont crack 80*C. It has a long section of track that is full throttle, essentially sweeper on and off the straight and obviously the straight itself.
My current setup is:
44 Boost
20 Turbo
First notch on a D3
350rpm/deg
4000 start
.1 delay
DDRS 8
5.35 FDR
Hot lap of 18.0 for me, fastest guys just under the 18, slowest in the 20s
So any suggestion of how I can change what I have to lower temps for a longer run, and improve the efficiency would be awesome.
I would add more fans,go easy on timing increase FDR slightly and most of all,be consistent.
Also post this question in our TFTR Templestowe Flat Track Racers thread and I'm sure you will get heaps of ideas.
Cheers
Tim
10-30-2012, 06:51 AM
10-30-2012, 10:09 AM
It will never be final....once we have that done, we will post it on the site, then we will move on to something better and faster. Our driver never satisfied to just 1 stage of the products. We are changing the software bi-weekly.
The programmer box can only read the CURRENT ESC temp and the lipo voltage, will not be able to read the MOTOR TEMP as we disabled that feature due to the conflict of the ESC thermal protection. Good old temp gun on the black spot of the motor will work...
As well as motor highest RPM...isn't that everyone want to see that..? Are you willing to mount a 500grams data logging device on the car and screw up the weight balance...?
The programmer box can only read the CURRENT ESC temp and the lipo voltage, will not be able to read the MOTOR TEMP as we disabled that feature due to the conflict of the ESC thermal protection. Good old temp gun on the black spot of the motor will work...
As well as motor highest RPM...isn't that everyone want to see that..? Are you willing to mount a 500grams data logging device on the car and screw up the weight balance...?
10-30-2012, 10:24 AM
Hey guys
After a bit of help
My GT2.0 stopped working on saturday , it was fitted to my WGT with a thunder power 17.5 motor
It lost speed on the track and i came back and the speedo and motor were cool , it feels like there is no turbo and boost , it was perfect for most of the daty , swapped out the sensor cable and motor ,
Eventually i sinned and fitted my old Tekin and everything was working .
Anyone seen this problem before ???
Thanks Phil
After a bit of help
My GT2.0 stopped working on saturday , it was fitted to my WGT with a thunder power 17.5 motor
It lost speed on the track and i came back and the speedo and motor were cool , it feels like there is no turbo and boost , it was perfect for most of the daty , swapped out the sensor cable and motor ,
Eventually i sinned and fitted my old Tekin and everything was working .
Anyone seen this problem before ???
Thanks Phil
10-30-2012, 10:45 AM
Hey guys
After a bit of help
My GT2.0 stopped working on saturday , it was fitted to my WGT with a thunder power 17.5 motor
It lost speed on the track and i came back and the speedo and motor were cool , it feels like there is no turbo and boost , it was perfect for most of the daty , swapped out the sensor cable and motor ,
Eventually i sinned and fitted my old Tekin and everything was working .
Anyone seen this problem before ???
Thanks Phil
After a bit of help
My GT2.0 stopped working on saturday , it was fitted to my WGT with a thunder power 17.5 motor
It lost speed on the track and i came back and the speedo and motor were cool , it feels like there is no turbo and boost , it was perfect for most of the daty , swapped out the sensor cable and motor ,
Eventually i sinned and fitted my old Tekin and everything was working .
Anyone seen this problem before ???
Thanks Phil
10-30-2012, 10:48 AM
If that doesn't work reinstall the software
10-30-2012, 11:11 AM
10-30-2012, 11:11 AM