1/8 Offroad Buggy
02-03-2004, 01:49 PM
#151
there should be a review soon on this website.. and it sounds like paco is selling it also.. just shoot an e-mail to him.. but, like I said.. don't waist your money unless you are confident that will help you...
http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm
http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm
02-03-2004, 03:58 PM
#152
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by warpig
I personally will continue using mugen alums.. I have not a single reason to change.. my shoes last for a good long time and run very very consistant that whole time.. I would advise against it unless you have figured out how to use a standard clutch with success.. meaning.. no blowing bearings.. no overheating.. no slippage.... etc... it will just waist your time and money... but, I will as paco raap if he knows
I personally will continue using mugen alums.. I have not a single reason to change.. my shoes last for a good long time and run very very consistant that whole time.. I would advise against it unless you have figured out how to use a standard clutch with success.. meaning.. no blowing bearings.. no overheating.. no slippage.... etc... it will just waist your time and money... but, I will as paco raap if he knows
02-03-2004, 08:33 PM
#153
Re: Re: fioroni parts
Originally posted by Gped0124
www.ace-hobbies.com
www.ace-hobbies.com
02-03-2004, 09:17 PM
#154
tell you what... I'll explain to you how to prep your bearings the way I do... If you follow it exactly.. you should have good luck...
first of all start with a new bell and bearings... preferably a whole new setup considering I don't know the condition of your equipment... if your bearings fit in your bell snug.. you shouldn't need to replace it.. if your shoes have plenty of contact to them.. they are ok.. replace the springs regardless.. clean the shoes, flywheel, and endbell well with denatured alchohol...
ok.. get an RPM bearing blaster $8... take your inner bearing.. pop the seals off if it is rubber sealed (what I use), or if you use steal it will work but is a little harder to clean.. and spray them very well with something like nitro blast.. kinwald spray.. or 3M carb or brake cleaner.. no other brands because they leave a residue... clean very very well spin on a tip of a screwdriver and blow out with light air.... apply one drop (I do mean one) of trinity royal oil or mobil 1 sythetic 5w engine oil... spin well to work in.. reinstall the seals if you have rubber seals... clean the outside of the bearing with denatured alchohol.. install in inner part of clutch bell... run one tank.. remove clutch bell and bearings and clean grease etc.. on bearings and bell with denatured alchohol and reinstall.. should be good for a few gallons after that... and your parts will not overheat and performance won't fade.. will save youm lots of money...
go to www.avidrc.com for a good price on bearings.. david joor is the man and helping the industry out... giving good deals a quick shipping...
good luck and follow closely
first of all start with a new bell and bearings... preferably a whole new setup considering I don't know the condition of your equipment... if your bearings fit in your bell snug.. you shouldn't need to replace it.. if your shoes have plenty of contact to them.. they are ok.. replace the springs regardless.. clean the shoes, flywheel, and endbell well with denatured alchohol...
ok.. get an RPM bearing blaster $8... take your inner bearing.. pop the seals off if it is rubber sealed (what I use), or if you use steal it will work but is a little harder to clean.. and spray them very well with something like nitro blast.. kinwald spray.. or 3M carb or brake cleaner.. no other brands because they leave a residue... clean very very well spin on a tip of a screwdriver and blow out with light air.... apply one drop (I do mean one) of trinity royal oil or mobil 1 sythetic 5w engine oil... spin well to work in.. reinstall the seals if you have rubber seals... clean the outside of the bearing with denatured alchohol.. install in inner part of clutch bell... run one tank.. remove clutch bell and bearings and clean grease etc.. on bearings and bell with denatured alchohol and reinstall.. should be good for a few gallons after that... and your parts will not overheat and performance won't fade.. will save youm lots of money...
go to www.avidrc.com for a good price on bearings.. david joor is the man and helping the industry out... giving good deals a quick shipping...
good luck and follow closely
02-04-2004, 10:11 PM
#155
Hey uDi7.5 , r u coming down for the NSW state titles?
ITs gonna be an awesome event!
ITs gonna be an awesome event!
02-05-2004, 02:49 AM
#159
Originally posted by habenstein
Hey uDi7.5 , r u coming down for the NSW state titles?
ITs gonna be an awesome event!
Hey uDi7.5 , r u coming down for the NSW state titles?
ITs gonna be an awesome event!
02-06-2004, 01:06 AM
#161
im sure tshirt will be there though ive heard hes a hardcore racer 
Last edited by uDi_MP7.5; 04-26-2012 at 06:38 AM.
02-06-2004, 03:42 AM
#162
Originally posted by uDi_MP7.5
im sure tshirt will be there though ive heard hes a hardcore racer
im sure tshirt will be there though ive heard hes a hardcore racer
i'm ready guys
02-10-2004, 05:34 PM
#163
kanai 3
guys any feedback regarding the performance of the new kyosho kanai 3, its a little bit pricey so would like the feedback before i get one, tnx................
02-10-2004, 08:01 PM
#165
kanai3
Originally posted by warpig
it shouldn't be any different than the previous kanai.. or the one before that.. not too many valuable hop ups.. some clutch stuff.. little a-arm stuff.. ti parts.. not worth changing IMO
it shouldn't be any different than the previous kanai.. or the one before that.. not too many valuable hop ups.. some clutch stuff.. little a-arm stuff.. ti parts.. not worth changing IMO