What 1/12?
#1
Tech Addict
Thread Starter
What 1/12?
Hello, I am only 15 turning 16 and don't really have alot $$$ for an onroad 1/12 scale. What is the best one out there that has a smaller price tag? Should I like for a used one?
Aaron
Aaron
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Yes, buying a used 1/12th car can save lots of money, but here are a few things to also look/look out for....
-buy from a reputable racer/seller one that will tell you what should/could possibly need replaced soon
-stay away from cars that have a cracked chassis, or axle
-stay away from graphite or aluminum axles, they aren't as durable as fibreglass
-with the exception of bearings rebuilding diffs is cheap.
-try to get something with foams, even if they aren't the right compound as long as they will run for a while they are mounds better than none. this goes for a new or used kit.
-pay a little extra for a car that includes a servo.... they aren't always the cheapest....
-try to find someone at your track selling one, you can call upon them for advice/information, and you get to see it first hand before any money changes hand
-The old skool front end is alot cheaper when you need to replace parts and easier to get set-up correctly
GOOD LUCK!!!!!
-buy from a reputable racer/seller one that will tell you what should/could possibly need replaced soon
-stay away from cars that have a cracked chassis, or axle
-stay away from graphite or aluminum axles, they aren't as durable as fibreglass
-with the exception of bearings rebuilding diffs is cheap.
-try to get something with foams, even if they aren't the right compound as long as they will run for a while they are mounds better than none. this goes for a new or used kit.
-pay a little extra for a car that includes a servo.... they aren't always the cheapest....
-try to find someone at your track selling one, you can call upon them for advice/information, and you get to see it first hand before any money changes hand
-The old skool front end is alot cheaper when you need to replace parts and easier to get set-up correctly
GOOD LUCK!!!!!
#3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
Aaron....
first off....run your buggy at Kingsville...not 1/12....the carpet fuzz will drive you batty...
next...Used 1/12 can save you a few dollars..but can also cost you a little aggravation as you look for a car and electronics...
If you can find a complete package less radio from a reputable seller then great...but if you need to still buy everything separate see if you can get your uncle to bring you to HH on a Tuesday afternoon and watch a little of the racing Tuesday night...
The pricing at HH has gotten SILLY low....also...keep an eye open..the Corally 1/12 RTR should be showing up soon...
There is no 'best 1/12th scale' The majority of todays kits are competitive in the hands of the right drivers.
You'll want something that you can get parts and setup support with..and locally that means CRC, Associated, Speed Merchant, Yokomo, Corally or variations on those platforms.
Chris
first off....run your buggy at Kingsville...not 1/12....the carpet fuzz will drive you batty...
next...Used 1/12 can save you a few dollars..but can also cost you a little aggravation as you look for a car and electronics...
If you can find a complete package less radio from a reputable seller then great...but if you need to still buy everything separate see if you can get your uncle to bring you to HH on a Tuesday afternoon and watch a little of the racing Tuesday night...
The pricing at HH has gotten SILLY low....also...keep an eye open..the Corally 1/12 RTR should be showing up soon...
There is no 'best 1/12th scale' The majority of todays kits are competitive in the hands of the right drivers.
You'll want something that you can get parts and setup support with..and locally that means CRC, Associated, Speed Merchant, Yokomo, Corally or variations on those platforms.
Chris
#4
12th scale is alot cheaper than most forms of racing out there, maybe save dirt (that is if you dont spend money on new tires and such...).
As far as cars... the corrally is a nice beginner car however, the front arms are not very durable (i have seen guys break alot of them at my home track) and finding parts and an arbor for a truer can be really hard. If you local hobby shop stocks them, then its not a bad choice
In the more competitive side of things... There are t-bar cars and links cars. I would suggest staying away from t-bar cars since t-bars are easily broken and can become tweak or damaged without you knowing and it can make the car completlty undriveable. Links cars are consistant and nothing really breaks on them. Such examples are the Speedmerchant Rev. 3 and CRC carpet knife. They cars are somewhat similar. The Rev. 3 comes with the old style front end which I highly recommend over the dynamic strut espically for beginners. The strut is a royal pain since the molds are very inconsistant and it requires alot of work and expeariance to keep it in correct working order.
Servo's are all around $60 you defently want to get the correct servo for your car, and probably a new one. Some can become damaged and really make your car screwy.
As far as diffs, I actually disagree with Impact. Fiberglass axles can creat alot more problems than graphite ones however, i am pretty sure that all current kits come with graphite axles.
As far as cars... the corrally is a nice beginner car however, the front arms are not very durable (i have seen guys break alot of them at my home track) and finding parts and an arbor for a truer can be really hard. If you local hobby shop stocks them, then its not a bad choice
In the more competitive side of things... There are t-bar cars and links cars. I would suggest staying away from t-bar cars since t-bars are easily broken and can become tweak or damaged without you knowing and it can make the car completlty undriveable. Links cars are consistant and nothing really breaks on them. Such examples are the Speedmerchant Rev. 3 and CRC carpet knife. They cars are somewhat similar. The Rev. 3 comes with the old style front end which I highly recommend over the dynamic strut espically for beginners. The strut is a royal pain since the molds are very inconsistant and it requires alot of work and expeariance to keep it in correct working order.
Servo's are all around $60 you defently want to get the correct servo for your car, and probably a new one. Some can become damaged and really make your car screwy.
As far as diffs, I actually disagree with Impact. Fiberglass axles can creat alot more problems than graphite ones however, i am pretty sure that all current kits come with graphite axles.
#5
Tech Apprentice
What do you guys think of the RC12L? I have a lead on one cheap and want to use it for short carpet track. Thx.