HPI Racing Cyber 10B
03-24-2009, 11:02 AM
#1
Tech Master
Thread Starter
HPI Racing Cyber 10B
Has anyone had time to take a look at this?
http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/100702/
They are now available and shipping.
http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/100702/
They are now available and shipping.
05-12-2009, 04:59 PM
#3
Just acquired one yesterday.
Ticks a lot of boxes for me:
- It's a kit
- A 4wd that takes stick packs
- Clever motor mount
- Compatible with a lot of the D4 drivetrain.
A few negatives:
- No slipper
- Rear wheels use regular dogbones
First impressions are the plastic parts are of excellent quality. The chassis is well moulded, very flat with no extreme flashing.
Can't really comment on how well it goes just yet. Need to build it first.
In regards to cost, once you add a set of rear CVD's, slipper, titanium turnbuckles and metal shocks, it's about the same cost as a B44. Here in Australia, there is one shop that is selling the Cyclone D4 (non-WCE) for $70 less than the Cyber 10B.
In regards to building CVD's are there any tricks to stop the pins from falling out? The manual suggests using rubber cement. Any other solutions that have proven to work?
Ticks a lot of boxes for me:
- It's a kit
- A 4wd that takes stick packs
- Clever motor mount
- Compatible with a lot of the D4 drivetrain.
A few negatives:
- No slipper
- Rear wheels use regular dogbones
First impressions are the plastic parts are of excellent quality. The chassis is well moulded, very flat with no extreme flashing.
Can't really comment on how well it goes just yet. Need to build it first.
In regards to cost, once you add a set of rear CVD's, slipper, titanium turnbuckles and metal shocks, it's about the same cost as a B44. Here in Australia, there is one shop that is selling the Cyclone D4 (non-WCE) for $70 less than the Cyber 10B.
In regards to building CVD's are there any tricks to stop the pins from falling out? The manual suggests using rubber cement. Any other solutions that have proven to work?
05-12-2009, 07:01 PM
#4
Just acquired one yesterday.
Ticks a lot of boxes for me:
- It's a kit
- A 4wd that takes stick packs
- Clever motor mount
- Compatible with a lot of the D4 drivetrain.
A few negatives:
- No slipper
- Rear wheels use regular dogbones
First impressions are the plastic parts are of excellent quality. The chassis is well moulded, very flat with no extreme flashing.
Can't really comment on how well it goes just yet. Need to build it first.
In regards to cost, once you add a set of rear CVD's, slipper, titanium turnbuckles and metal shocks, it's about the same cost as a B44. Here in Australia, there is one shop that is selling the Cyclone D4 (non-WCE) for $70 less than the Cyber 10B.
In regards to building CVD's are there any tricks to stop the pins from falling out? The manual suggests using rubber cement. Any other solutions that have proven to work?
Ticks a lot of boxes for me:
- It's a kit
- A 4wd that takes stick packs
- Clever motor mount
- Compatible with a lot of the D4 drivetrain.
A few negatives:
- No slipper
- Rear wheels use regular dogbones
First impressions are the plastic parts are of excellent quality. The chassis is well moulded, very flat with no extreme flashing.
Can't really comment on how well it goes just yet. Need to build it first.
In regards to cost, once you add a set of rear CVD's, slipper, titanium turnbuckles and metal shocks, it's about the same cost as a B44. Here in Australia, there is one shop that is selling the Cyclone D4 (non-WCE) for $70 less than the Cyber 10B.
In regards to building CVD's are there any tricks to stop the pins from falling out? The manual suggests using rubber cement. Any other solutions that have proven to work?
You got one? Nice work...
I glue them in my D4, as I have lost one mid race before, and vowed not to fall victim to it again.
I recommend that you consider the same approach to your axle pins,as they have a tendancy to slide out, if you are running Rulux wheels, that don't require the hex head to hold them in.
05-13-2009, 06:26 AM
#5
DAY 1
Up to page 17 now. Only one real surprise so far - no bearings were included for the diffs, only bushings.
Also lost an e-clip while working on the front gearbox. Would've been nice to have a spare or two.
Wondering whether I should apply diff lube to all the dogbones as per the manual. In my experience, this just gathers dirt and causes more damage.
Found a few good ideas on CVD's. Best solution I like so far is adding a few layers of heatshrink over the CVDs. Thinking of doing this in addition to threadlocking the pins in place.
Up to page 17 now. Only one real surprise so far - no bearings were included for the diffs, only bushings.
Also lost an e-clip while working on the front gearbox. Would've been nice to have a spare or two.
Wondering whether I should apply diff lube to all the dogbones as per the manual. In my experience, this just gathers dirt and causes more damage.
Found a few good ideas on CVD's. Best solution I like so far is adding a few layers of heatshrink over the CVDs. Thinking of doing this in addition to threadlocking the pins in place.
Last edited by scrawl; 05-19-2009 at 06:19 AM.
05-13-2009, 01:20 PM
#6
Up to page 17 now. Only one real surprise so far - no bearings were included for the diffs, only bushings.
Also lost an e-clip while working on the front gearbox. Would've been nice to have a spare or two.
Wondering whether I should apply diff lube to all the dogbones as per the manual. In my experience, this just gathers dirt and causes more damage.
Found a few good ideas on CVD's. Best solution I like so far is adding a few layers of heatshrink over the CVDs. Thinking of doing this in addition to threadlocking the pins in place.
Also lost an e-clip while working on the front gearbox. Would've been nice to have a spare or two.
Wondering whether I should apply diff lube to all the dogbones as per the manual. In my experience, this just gathers dirt and causes more damage.
Found a few good ideas on CVD's. Best solution I like so far is adding a few layers of heatshrink over the CVDs. Thinking of doing this in addition to threadlocking the pins in place.
05-13-2009, 07:18 PM
#7
Tech Rookie
post more progress pics when done..im really thinking about getting one..this or ethier the nex 1/16 traxxas mini revo..
05-14-2009, 06:58 AM
#8
Up to page 17 now. Only one real surprise so far - no bearings were included for the diffs, only bushings.
Also lost an e-clip while working on the front gearbox. Would've been nice to have a spare or two.
Wondering whether I should apply diff lube to all the dogbones as per the manual. In my experience, this just gathers dirt and causes more damage.
Found a few good ideas on CVD's. Best solution I like so far is adding a few layers of heatshrink over the CVDs. Thinking of doing this in addition to threadlocking the pins in place.
Also lost an e-clip while working on the front gearbox. Would've been nice to have a spare or two.
Wondering whether I should apply diff lube to all the dogbones as per the manual. In my experience, this just gathers dirt and causes more damage.
Found a few good ideas on CVD's. Best solution I like so far is adding a few layers of heatshrink over the CVDs. Thinking of doing this in addition to threadlocking the pins in place.
what size bearings are needed? ill order them when i order the car.
thanks for the heads up!!!
05-14-2009, 07:08 AM
#9
DAY 2
Now up to page 21/34. Just finished building my first set of CVD's. Fiddly little things.
The buggy now has an enclosed spur gear cover, top deck, shock towers and steering rack. Unlike the D4, there are no ball bearings in the steering rack. Plastic spacers are used instead.
Also did a test fit of a D4 WCE slipper. Happy to confirm it is a drop in replacement. Looks like the D4 aluminium CVD central drive shafts from the D4 will also fit if you change the ends of the gearbox.
When building new CVD's, is it normal for them to 'catch' while rotating by hand? Do they go through a break in period and eventually smooth out?
Now up to page 21/34. Just finished building my first set of CVD's. Fiddly little things.
The buggy now has an enclosed spur gear cover, top deck, shock towers and steering rack. Unlike the D4, there are no ball bearings in the steering rack. Plastic spacers are used instead.
Also did a test fit of a D4 WCE slipper. Happy to confirm it is a drop in replacement. Looks like the D4 aluminium CVD central drive shafts from the D4 will also fit if you change the ends of the gearbox.
When building new CVD's, is it normal for them to 'catch' while rotating by hand? Do they go through a break in period and eventually smooth out?
Last edited by scrawl; 05-19-2009 at 06:19 AM.
05-14-2009, 07:10 AM
#10
05-14-2009, 03:44 PM
#12
Not really.. it's their budget 4wd... I think we will see these at club racing because of the cost and possible durability. I like the tub chassis and the fact that it will accept regular stick LiPos.
I know I'm thinking about one!
Time will tell!
Jerome
I know I'm thinking about one!
Time will tell!
Jerome
05-14-2009, 03:48 PM
#13
I doubt it. It seems like Hot Bodies is the racing division of HPI. It just seems to me that HPI brand is more the sport brand with HB being the upper end of the scale. Not to say that the Cyber is not racable. If I move to 4wd I'm going to take a long hard look at the Cyber.
05-14-2009, 04:20 PM
#14
Consider the Yokomo B-MAX4. That's a 'budget kit' that went on to win the Japanese Nationals.
Once you upgrade the turnbuckles, drivetrain and rear CVD's, you effectively have a plastic D4. Of course once you do all of this, it's no longer a budget 4wd
Once you upgrade the turnbuckles, drivetrain and rear CVD's, you effectively have a plastic D4. Of course once you do all of this, it's no longer a budget 4wd
05-15-2009, 07:59 AM
#15
DAY 3
Midnight and my hands are raw from attaching turnbuckles to ball cups.
The turnbuckles themselves are the same thickness as their D4 counterpart, 3mm, but made of steel as opposed to titanium. They are tastefully black in colour, much like the rest of the chassis.
A nice bonus was the inclusion of 1 degree rear hubs and 13 degree front hubs. These are in addition to the 0 degree rear and 10 degree front hubs which the manual suggests to use.
Hub pins are captured with a small screw on either side of the arm with the top of the screw partially blocking the hole. Personally, I'd feel more comfortable with a washer in there but it seems to do the job.
Would have been nice if the front bumper were slightly taller, similar to the D4 WCE (which is not a direct fit to the Cyber 10b). There are two points on the gearbox it could push against which I think would better distribute the force of an impact a little better.
Tomorrow should be a productive day being the start of the weekend. High on the agenda is to hunt down 'rubber cement'. I'm getting paranoid of pins flying in all directions. If I can find some CVD rebuild kits locally, might also have a stab at installing the D4 central drive shafts along with the WCE slipper.
Midnight and my hands are raw from attaching turnbuckles to ball cups.
The turnbuckles themselves are the same thickness as their D4 counterpart, 3mm, but made of steel as opposed to titanium. They are tastefully black in colour, much like the rest of the chassis.
A nice bonus was the inclusion of 1 degree rear hubs and 13 degree front hubs. These are in addition to the 0 degree rear and 10 degree front hubs which the manual suggests to use.
Hub pins are captured with a small screw on either side of the arm with the top of the screw partially blocking the hole. Personally, I'd feel more comfortable with a washer in there but it seems to do the job.
Would have been nice if the front bumper were slightly taller, similar to the D4 WCE (which is not a direct fit to the Cyber 10b). There are two points on the gearbox it could push against which I think would better distribute the force of an impact a little better.
Tomorrow should be a productive day being the start of the weekend. High on the agenda is to hunt down 'rubber cement'. I'm getting paranoid of pins flying in all directions. If I can find some CVD rebuild kits locally, might also have a stab at installing the D4 central drive shafts along with the WCE slipper.
Last edited by scrawl; 05-19-2009 at 06:20 AM.