1/10 4wd buggy vs. 1/8 4wd buggy
03-19-2009, 09:20 AM
#16
I have one of each plus something inbetween (e-crt.5 bumped to 10th scale) and I find it really depends on the track you are driving.
1. At our local indoor track I prefer 1/10 mod wheeler. It's super nimble, tracks any line, responds instantly and is challenging to drive.
2. At an outdoor larger track I prefer the e-1/8 buggy. It's easy to drive at high speeds, eats up rough tracks, lands huge jumps and is very durable.
3. At my backyard SX style track that is indoor sized, rough and has big jumps I like my e-crt.5 with truck tires and a 1/10 buggy wheelbase.
It is true about the cost perception. Most guys think that an e-1/8 is crazy expensive, but the cost is very similar if you use Zippy/Rhino lipos and the durability is awesome. As for working on a 1/8, I find it easier than my 1/10 wheeler as in I don't have to work on it.
1. At our local indoor track I prefer 1/10 mod wheeler. It's super nimble, tracks any line, responds instantly and is challenging to drive.
2. At an outdoor larger track I prefer the e-1/8 buggy. It's easy to drive at high speeds, eats up rough tracks, lands huge jumps and is very durable.
3. At my backyard SX style track that is indoor sized, rough and has big jumps I like my e-crt.5 with truck tires and a 1/10 buggy wheelbase.
It is true about the cost perception. Most guys think that an e-1/8 is crazy expensive, but the cost is very similar if you use Zippy/Rhino lipos and the durability is awesome. As for working on a 1/8, I find it easier than my 1/10 wheeler as in I don't have to work on it.
03-19-2009, 09:24 AM
#17
1/8 all the way. I really think e-1/8 is going to kill the 1/10 class over the next couple of years. 1/10 just seems so toy like to me and the cars are so fragile. A number of 1/10 tracks are already trying to accommodate the 1/8s so I can see 1/10 starting to phase out in popularity especially as people figure out they can start running indoors with the e-1/8s without the noise and smoke of nitro. I can see the class getting HUGE in the winter time.
driving 1/10 does help you learn how to drive though since they are so much less forgiving.
I think what is holding a lot of people back is that e-1/8 just seems so much more complicated with the voltage, ESC, and battery choices. A lot of people jsut don't know where to start. Mistakes in picking the wrong equipment can be costly with e-1/8!
driving 1/10 does help you learn how to drive though since they are so much less forgiving.
I think what is holding a lot of people back is that e-1/8 just seems so much more complicated with the voltage, ESC, and battery choices. A lot of people jsut don't know where to start. Mistakes in picking the wrong equipment can be costly with e-1/8!
03-19-2009, 09:27 AM
#18
Anything is going to be expensive if your going to a brand new class. Especially if you are buying new.
749$ plus shipping for a new 8ight 2.0 roller with Motor\ESC....but that is about right.....I just choke on the initial cost.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/34993
I wanted to dabble in 4WD, so bought a used xxx-4 with extra parts\tires\upgrades for less than 1/2 the cost of a new kit. I got a spare Rx, Servo, and Brushless setup I can drop in this already, and it can use my LiPo's I already have for my truck.
It all depends on where your coming from. If I was a Nitro 1/8th guy and I had a Buggy sitting around, I would just need a conversion kit with ESC\Motor & some batteries, and I'm good to go.
749$ plus shipping for a new 8ight 2.0 roller with Motor\ESC....but that is about right.....I just choke on the initial cost.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/34993
I wanted to dabble in 4WD, so bought a used xxx-4 with extra parts\tires\upgrades for less than 1/2 the cost of a new kit. I got a spare Rx, Servo, and Brushless setup I can drop in this already, and it can use my LiPo's I already have for my truck.
It all depends on where your coming from. If I was a Nitro 1/8th guy and I had a Buggy sitting around, I would just need a conversion kit with ESC\Motor & some batteries, and I'm good to go.
03-19-2009, 09:44 AM
#20
For me, electric has always been about driver ability. With most of the 1/10 platforms out there, maybe 1% of all the drivers could actually put the power down. As an example, remember the time when a beginner when to the LHS and bought the hottest motor he could find. Only to realize that it takes some serious skill to wheel a 6 turn double in a 2wd buggy. How quickly did they end up putting that stock motor back in and concentrate on learning to drive.
With the 1/8 buggies, brushless motors and Lipo batteries out there, it takes the "skill" out of driving the car fast. I'm not talking about fast lap times, but I'm talking about "full wood" all over the track and to the point where it's dangerous.
Don't get me wrong, I love 1/8 scale, but I think it's best with a nitro engine and a big outdoor track. Not a newbie who doesn't realize the damage an 8lb projectile can do at 40+ mph on a "small" indoor facility.
On the other hand, I do love watching the pros run 1/8 electric. Pretty impressive.
Just my $.02
With the 1/8 buggies, brushless motors and Lipo batteries out there, it takes the "skill" out of driving the car fast. I'm not talking about fast lap times, but I'm talking about "full wood" all over the track and to the point where it's dangerous.
Don't get me wrong, I love 1/8 scale, but I think it's best with a nitro engine and a big outdoor track. Not a newbie who doesn't realize the damage an 8lb projectile can do at 40+ mph on a "small" indoor facility.
On the other hand, I do love watching the pros run 1/8 electric. Pretty impressive.
Just my $.02
03-19-2009, 09:48 AM
#21
Hmm, I find it interesting that people always say 1/8th E is so exspensive, it is far cheaper than 1/8th Nitro.... Lets see, what truly kills you in nitro that everyone overlooks is (Engine, Glow plugs, Starter Box, Reciever Pack, Tuned Pipe, Fly wheel, Clutch bell, Clutch shoes, Clutch Springs, FUEL!! Fuel Bottle, Glow ignitor!! Fuel Line, 2 servos Charger for the rec. pack) That is the small list, So I don't understand why people are always saying that E-8th is to expensive. It is cheaper that the MOST expensive class and MOST popular class
Now think people complain about batteries being around $150 and yet 1 .21 engine is avg. 300 I mean come on do people even think?
Now as far as E 8th vs 10th 4wd, I think it all comes down to personal preferance and how much ROAR is planning to screw Electric 8th over. I honestly love 8th and am about to get a 10th 4wd buggy because I orginated and have always raced some type of Mod class. I really think it comes down to driving style and skill.
It takes more skill to rip out consistant lap times in any 10th scaled electric vs 8th scale. So I think for the newer people; or just those who have huge egos that think there great because they can squeeze the trigger and turn a knob, therefore a great driver will stay with the 8th scales
As far as the 4wd's go I think that team Durangos new 4wd buggy will be absolutly SICK I think that is the future of them. Now will I dish out the 700-1200 they will charge because they are a "small" company. HELL NO! But If a top man. started making them like that I would def. pick one up. Alum. Chassis, Diffed gears!!!!!
Now as far as you eating your 4wd tires in 1 day, I have seen it happen especially in Mod, but I would guess you were using a very soft compound tire and a medium to hard for your 8th. I have seen soft compond 8th tire come off BALD in a 30 minute main at Badlands. While our tires where still fine, It's alot about your driving style.
If you hall into a corner sling your car side ways and use your front tires to pull you threw the corner( extreme tire spin) then yes they will get toasted fast, but If you are a smoother driver and roll through corner then they will las much longer.
Josh
Now think people complain about batteries being around $150 and yet 1 .21 engine is avg. 300
I mean come on do people even think?Now as far as E 8th vs 10th 4wd, I think it all comes down to personal preferance and how much ROAR is planning to screw Electric 8th over. I honestly love 8th and am about to get a 10th 4wd buggy because I orginated and have always raced some type of Mod class. I really think it comes down to driving style and skill.
It takes more skill to rip out consistant lap times in any 10th scaled electric vs 8th scale. So I think for the newer people; or just those who have huge egos that think there great because they can squeeze the trigger and turn a knob, therefore a great driver will stay with the 8th scales
As far as the 4wd's go I think that team Durangos new 4wd buggy will be absolutly SICK I think that is the future of them. Now will I dish out the 700-1200 they will charge because they are a "small" company. HELL NO! But If a top man. started making them like that I would def. pick one up. Alum. Chassis, Diffed gears!!!!!
Now as far as you eating your 4wd tires in 1 day,
I have seen it happen especially in Mod, but I would guess you were using a very soft compound tire and a medium to hard for your 8th. I have seen soft compond 8th tire come off BALD in a 30 minute main at Badlands. While our tires where still fine, It's alot about your driving style.If you hall into a corner sling your car side ways and use your front tires to pull you threw the corner( extreme tire spin) then yes they will get toasted fast, but If you are a smoother driver and roll through corner then they will las much longer.
Josh
03-19-2009, 10:40 AM
#22
I have yet to run my 1/8th Brushless, but I think it's gonna be a blast! With a bigger chassis and more suspension, the car is really gonna be able to get pushed hard. However I think that being smooth and not trying to over drive the car will be best just like the 1/10th scale 4wd. Since I normally just wheel 1/10th scale 4wd, I am gonna have to learn to push it a bit more with the 1/8th scale!
03-19-2009, 10:45 AM
#23
Ahhh....how I do want a 1/8th Brushless.....
This is a good step for a RTR ....515$
http://holeshothobbies.com/index.php...roducts_id=267
This is a good step for a RTR ....515$
http://holeshothobbies.com/index.php...roducts_id=267
03-19-2009, 11:06 AM
#24
are 1/8th scale cars really more durable ? it seems to me the light the car
the less it breaks but iv only had a e-maxx that broke .... ALL the time and a stamped and rustler that were durable and now a rc18t thats got a mamba sidewinder esc and 8000kv motor and the thing never breaks and i hit curbs a tad to fast lol so far i just figured it was because the car was soooo very light and the emaxx was tank. that or a poor traxxas design compaired to a good AE design... if th 1/8th is truly more durable i will consider it but for now i need something for wet driving conditions and cant decide between 1/10th slash or wait for mini- e-revo....
the less it breaks but iv only had a e-maxx that broke .... ALL the time and a stamped and rustler that were durable and now a rc18t thats got a mamba sidewinder esc and 8000kv motor and the thing never breaks and i hit curbs a tad to fast lol so far i just figured it was because the car was soooo very light and the emaxx was tank. that or a poor traxxas design compaired to a good AE design... if th 1/8th is truly more durable i will consider it but for now i need something for wet driving conditions and cant decide between 1/10th slash or wait for mini- e-revo....
03-19-2009, 11:13 AM
#25
I really like my Fusion. Vheck out the fourm at www.casterracingusa.com there are a few team drivers running the RTR buggy and truggy with no issue with the motor or ESC.
I run a Neu and a MMM
I run a Neu and a MMM
03-19-2009, 11:22 AM
#26
1/8 is way more durable than 1/10 especially if you are looking at a 1/10 4wd. Yes they are twice as heavy, but the arms are about 4Xs as thick. I own both 1/10 and 1/8 4wd and it amazes me how hard I hit stuff with the 1/8 and it just bounces off and keeps on driving. Not to mention I can drive it about twice as hard as the 1/10 just because of its stability and massive power.
03-19-2009, 12:45 PM
#27
i have no idea whats available out there for 1/8 stuff but if i wanted to get a roller to convert to electric for bashing mostly but maybe a race what would i be looking for ? durability and parts available and of course price are my main concerns.
03-19-2009, 12:50 PM
#28
http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...its/index.html
This looks like a great deal for a RTR
http://holeshothobbies.com/index.php...roducts_id=267
03-19-2009, 01:14 PM
#29
This was just for reference.All components are top notch too.No skimping.So for those saying the price difference in the initial purchase is prohibitive for 1/8,they really are not looking at the larger picture.Buy what you like,but don't think a 1/10 4wd buggy is cheap.If you want cheap.run 2wd 13.5/stock buggy.
I guess it's all dependent on the equipment you pick as well. I would consider it a requirement to have 2 batteries minimum for each vehicle.
an extra transponder is more of a convenience than a requirement....but a Rx (not listed) is less easily moved from vehicle to vehicle, so that kinda cancels each other out....
an extra transponder is more of a convenience than a requirement....but a Rx (not listed) is less easily moved from vehicle to vehicle, so that kinda cancels each other out....
03-19-2009, 01:27 PM
#30
This was just for reference.All components are top notch too.No skimping.So for those saying the price difference in the initial purchase is prohibitive for 1/8,they really are not looking at the larger picture.Buy what you like,but don't think a 1/10 4wd buggy is cheap.If you want cheap.run 2wd 13.5/stock buggy.
If I wanted to go 1/8th brushless....it would be more of a investment.