T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#7997
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Gods Of Tweak
Please help,
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.
Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.
THANKS!!
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.
Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.
THANKS!!
#7998
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Please help,
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.
Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.
THANKS!!
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.
Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.
THANKS!!
Next put it back together and make sure you leave the "wings" that connect the lower bulkheads loose. Once the bottom screws are tight, with the top deck and wing screws check it on the flatboard again, then slowly tighten the top deck and wing screws.
Chances are your roll center blocks are tweaked if the car has taken a few good hits, check your arms, if the seem to have excessive play in the mounts, change the screws and the blocks.
#7999
Please help,
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.
Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.
THANKS!!
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.
Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.
THANKS!!
#8000
Let run this by you guys. Being bored and with a hyperextended knee. I was thinktanking about how to use Xrays gear diff with their ecs drives with the least amount of parts that I have. I figure that I need the gear diff (dah), Xrays 305432 front belt and 3Racing's Sakua 19t center pulley gear.
My concern will be the 19/20 center gear combo. Will this create a over/under drive?
I know it would be easier and cheaper to just Dremel the outdrives on my spare Yokomo gear diff but I don't want o weaken the outdrives.
Tell me what you think or any changes to it.
My concern will be the 19/20 center gear combo. Will this create a over/under drive?
I know it would be easier and cheaper to just Dremel the outdrives on my spare Yokomo gear diff but I don't want o weaken the outdrives.
Tell me what you think or any changes to it.
#8001
Any good tips for on building this car?
things to watchout for?
Cheers
Jason
things to watchout for?
Cheers
Jason
#8002
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
#8003
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Let run this by you guys. Being bored and with a hyperextended knee. I was thinktanking about how to use Xrays gear diff with their ecs drives with the least amount of parts that I have. I figure that I need the gear diff (dah), Xrays 305432 front belt and 3Racing's Sakua 19t center pulley gear.
My concern will be the 19/20 center gear combo. Will this create a over/under drive?
I know it would be easier and cheaper to just Dremel the outdrives on my spare Yokomo gear diff but I don't want o weaken the outdrives.
Tell me what you think or any changes to it.
My concern will be the 19/20 center gear combo. Will this create a over/under drive?
I know it would be easier and cheaper to just Dremel the outdrives on my spare Yokomo gear diff but I don't want o weaken the outdrives.
Tell me what you think or any changes to it.
#8004
Tech Adept
Cad pics of what the aluminum front bellcrank piece will look like.
#8006
#8008
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Nice. I'll take two. I'm not sure if you noticed the post about making it a bit smaller at the very front, but a lot of guys like the farthest forward position and have to shave down the front face of this part to prevent it from hitting the spool pulley. You just have to take maybe half of a millimeter off the front side.
#8009
If you will post two Australia I will take 1
#8010
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Do you have a flat pitboard or piece of glass to use? if so, take the chassis completely off and lay it on the flat surface, then tap the corners lightly and see if ti rocks, you can also eyeball the edges to see any gaps. With use and abuse it probably won't be perfect, but if it's close, you can still use it.
Next put it back together and make sure you leave the "wings" that connect the lower bulkheads loose. Once the bottom screws are tight, with the top deck and wing screws check it on the flatboard again, then slowly tighten the top deck and wing screws.
Chances are your roll center blocks are tweaked if the car has taken a few good hits, check your arms, if the seem to have excessive play in the mounts, change the screws and the blocks.
Next put it back together and make sure you leave the "wings" that connect the lower bulkheads loose. Once the bottom screws are tight, with the top deck and wing screws check it on the flatboard again, then slowly tighten the top deck and wing screws.
Chances are your roll center blocks are tweaked if the car has taken a few good hits, check your arms, if the seem to have excessive play in the mounts, change the screws and the blocks.
Before posted last, all I had done to the bottom of the plate was a general look and removed old tape goobers. I decided that before I tore the car apart that should look closer at the bottom of the car. I right away noticed two screws in the center of the car that had burrs from where they were beginning to strip. When I took a straight edge sanding stick to the car, I found that most of the countersunk screws did not sit flush, or below the surface. In my opinion, it seems like most of the screw openings on the aluminum components werent tapped square....OR, maybe the countersinking on the plate is not precise, but more likely the screws (pretty poor quality on the older model). Maybe some of you have seen this. I cant imagine another reason for these not seating properly. In summary, I sanded the heads as much as I could with a light grit nail sanding stick, and the cars sits pretty flat now. Not perfect, but good enough for a VTA car. The car runs like a champ, enough for a rusty retiree to take second in our Cup race today.
Side note - I have noticed that many things seem to be of better quality and construction on the Photon I bought last month, versus my two year old. I check flatness on the new car I run in 17.5 regularly with no issues.
Shame on me for not catching this sooner.
Thanks everyone again for your insight, I'm learning tons right now and am having a blast!
Soup