Hingepin reconditioning
#1
Hingepin reconditioning
So I was in the middle of a teardown/rebuild of a used RC8 that I just picked up and I noticed how much crud had built up on the hingepin, so much that I could barely get them out of the arms. It was almost fused to it and a rag wasn't cutting it. Low and behold what do I see? Some 800 grit sandpaper and my 18v drill hmmmmmmmm.........................
I secured the hingepin in the drill (wrap the end in the drill with something to protect it from damage) and wrapped the 800 grit (available in the automotive section of WalMart)around the pin and pulled the trigger working the sand paper up and down while it's rotating. After about 5 seconds it was smoother than new. Take it out flip it over and get the rest that was in the drill. Works great!
After that I took some Mobile 1 Synthetic grease and put a light coat inside the hingpin holes in the arms (after cleaning with a pipe cleaner) and now the arms are SUPER smooth with absolutely NO play.
And that Mobile 1 grease is $8.99 for a lb at Pepboys, I use it in the gearboxes, on shock seals, diff o-rings, hingepins and CVD's a little bit goes a LONG way, this lb will probably last me longer than I'll probably be racing. Beats the hell out of paying that much for a few cc's of grease. I highly recommend it!
I secured the hingepin in the drill (wrap the end in the drill with something to protect it from damage) and wrapped the 800 grit (available in the automotive section of WalMart)around the pin and pulled the trigger working the sand paper up and down while it's rotating. After about 5 seconds it was smoother than new. Take it out flip it over and get the rest that was in the drill. Works great!
After that I took some Mobile 1 Synthetic grease and put a light coat inside the hingpin holes in the arms (after cleaning with a pipe cleaner) and now the arms are SUPER smooth with absolutely NO play.
And that Mobile 1 grease is $8.99 for a lb at Pepboys, I use it in the gearboxes, on shock seals, diff o-rings, hingepins and CVD's a little bit goes a LONG way, this lb will probably last me longer than I'll probably be racing. Beats the hell out of paying that much for a few cc's of grease. I highly recommend it!
#2
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (123)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Living in Paradise! Not really...
Posts: 1,257
Trader Rating: 123 (100%+)
I agree with what was said above, fine sandpaper. Mobil 1 grease is great for diffs and shocks, etc., but I wouldn't use the Mobil 1 on this exposed part unless you have no, or little, dust. You'll have the same issue of caked on dirt in no time. I use a very light bushing oil in small amounts.
If you really want to get carried away, polish the freshly cleaned pin with Mothers alum polish. A little on a rag and spin up in a drill. Learned that from tuning brushed motors for electric racing. Not a secret with elec guys, just thought I'd share with the nitro crowd.
If you really want to get carried away, polish the freshly cleaned pin with Mothers alum polish. A little on a rag and spin up in a drill. Learned that from tuning brushed motors for electric racing. Not a secret with elec guys, just thought I'd share with the nitro crowd.
#3
I just use my bench top buffer with some compound and it take's em back to Shiny new.
#5
When first building a kit...
1) Use a reamer or appropriate drill bit to very, very slightly debur hinge pin holes.
2) Use fine metal polish to clean all hinge pins (shock shafts too).
3) Squirt a little White Lightning bicycle chain lube inside hinge pin holes, assemble as usual.
1) Use a reamer or appropriate drill bit to very, very slightly debur hinge pin holes.
2) Use fine metal polish to clean all hinge pins (shock shafts too).
3) Squirt a little White Lightning bicycle chain lube inside hinge pin holes, assemble as usual.