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Old 06-01-2004, 09:26 PM
  #11791  
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Default Re: Re: Red shoe

Originally posted by InitialD
I tried momentarily last week to use 2 of the M3x4 set screws on each of the cut flyweights (6 in total as per Goldfinger's suggestion) and mounted them in between the post with the black shoe. Not bad. Of course this was on my lowly 3 port engine.
Beware.. with max s5, hard spring, 0.7gap, the front end of the car looks like wanted to fly up the minute you push that trigger.
Attached Thumbnails Serpent 710-ser802507screws.jpg  
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Old 06-01-2004, 09:32 PM
  #11792  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Red shoe

Originally posted by Pyramid
Beware.. with max s5, hard spring, 0.7gap, the front end of the car looks like wanted to fly up the minute you push that trigger.
That's good right

What shoe did you use??
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Old 06-01-2004, 09:36 PM
  #11793  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Red shoe

Originally posted by JustRace
That's good right

What shoe did you use??
Black.. didn`t dare to try with yellow yet. But maybe yellow and original spring might works fine.

Good on technicall track to scare whoever in front of your car
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Old 06-01-2004, 09:58 PM
  #11794  
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Originally posted by GoldFinger
Uncle Sow, something to consider..
if your engine has to be 1.25 LSN to idle properly, there is a big chance that the compression is very low.
Quick test, dont touch/change LSN - reduce head shim by .1 mm or replace conrod(I suspect too much play in this part) your engine should scream instantly when trigger touched.
Hi Goldfinger - you may have hit the nail on the head, as it were. I rebuilt my 2106 and had to use an old conrod, as the new one hadn't arrived!! The conrod is ready for replacing and will be replaced before the next run.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:00 PM
  #11795  
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Originally posted by InitialD
That's why I ended up with 5 sets of shocks !

Yeah, not forgetting the red hurting fingers.
I have about four sets, I think not including the Alu ones Now I can't see why I had so many problems building the shocks.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:09 PM
  #11796  
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Originally posted by chachi
Any of you tried the new Protoform MG yet? How is it?
I have the body, and the Mazda, VERY similar shape, but I think the MG is nicer, I have not painted or run it yet, but I look forward to it.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:29 PM
  #11797  
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Originally posted by markp27
I have about four sets, I think not including the Alu ones Now I can't see why I had so many problems building the shocks.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:42 PM
  #11798  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks for the info last night - very useful - I'm heading in the right direction now
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:50 PM
  #11799  
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Originally posted by markp27
Thanks for the info last night - very useful - I'm heading in the right direction now
Sorry I got cut off abruptly last night. Something went wrong with the provider.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:57 PM
  #11800  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Sorry I got cut off abruptly last night. Something went wrong with the provider.
I thought it was the ring
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:59 PM
  #11801  
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Originally posted by markp27
I thought it was the ring
Sorry. Don't have it anymore. Crashed_1 stole it from me.
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:06 PM
  #11802  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Sorry. Don't have it anymore. Crashed_1 stole it from me.
We're in big trouble now!

I was asking Lord Rick at The-Border about the insert in the carb on my JP and he said that it improves the airflow and that I should always keep it in there.
Do you know if this affects the idle screw setting?
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:13 PM
  #11803  
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Originally posted by markp27
I was asking Lord Rick at The-Border about the insert in the carb on my JP and he said that it improves the airflow and that I should always keep it in there.
Do you know if this affects the idle screw setting?
I think different people will get different ideas about the insert. It is true that it improves airflow but at the same time restricts the amount of air flow going in = less power. Tuning is generally easier with the insert. Power band is also more linear than without the insert. Powerband without the insert is very abrupt. Fuel consumption is better with insert. More importantly, you need to race legally and that the insert is what keeps the engine / carb legal with 5.4 mm carb diameter opening.
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:41 AM
  #11804  
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Originally posted by InitialD
I think that is not possible seeing Mark's engine is new !
Not always the case but mostly idle quality( ) is depends on compression/ healthy of the engine. And I thought 1.25 LSN is not healthy already.

Originally posted by InitialD

Anyway, any tips on how to check for too much play in the conrod?
Take off the plug, make the piston (stuck) in TDC.
If you play the flywheel around 60 deg (10 minutes), its time !!!
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:45 AM
  #11805  
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Originally posted by InitialD
Well, it's also pretty expensive. You could also get the JP FX12 engine. Very expensive too.

What do the others think about this engine? Any experience / observations? Goldfinger / Pyramid?
Hi D,
Fantini is a good engine but in my experience yuo can buy ,if you find it out of Italy Novarossi NS12S3 or NSR12S3(this last has the microcasted piston) signed by Mario Rossi (Mario Rossi edition).
The price is 20-25%less than Fantini but we all like it the same .
I have open these two engine and I don't find great differences.
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