Serpent 710
05-17-2004, 09:59 PM
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Need some setups
Originally posted by rcpanama
I have install in the 710:
Complete set of CERAMIC BOCA BEARINGS
The NOVA MAX 5P
Tuned pipe-set Inline M12 TP05 Outlaw
Ellegy 40 with Disk front 6 rear
Futaba S9550 for Th. & St.
Receiver Futaba R203 HRF
Radio 3PK
Drive-shafts front & rear Part: 808220
Wheel axle front & rear Part: 801214
Brake disk stainless steel ventilated Part: 801345
Shock-body alum. Front & rear
Shock membrane soft & Foam inserts (4) Part: 909446
Shock Seal-Shim Alu (4)part: 909408
I have install in the 710:
Complete set of CERAMIC BOCA BEARINGS
The NOVA MAX 5P
Tuned pipe-set Inline M12 TP05 Outlaw
Ellegy 40 with Disk front 6 rear
Futaba S9550 for Th. & St.
Receiver Futaba R203 HRF
Radio 3PK
Drive-shafts front & rear Part: 808220
Wheel axle front & rear Part: 801214
Brake disk stainless steel ventilated Part: 801345
Shock-body alum. Front & rear
Shock membrane soft & Foam inserts (4) Part: 909446
Shock Seal-Shim Alu (4)part: 909408
In case you could find PIT-0902 Pitshimidzu Diaphram+Foam, this thing is PERFECT for serpent shocks.
05-17-2004, 10:05 PM
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by markp27
the conrod seems to be the same anyway in all the 12 series engines, so it doesn't seem to play any part in performance. I'll let you know when I find out, though
the conrod seems to be the same anyway in all the 12 series engines, so it doesn't seem to play any part in performance. I'll let you know when I find out, though
From NS to RR base, still using same (competition) conrod, NRS-07601
05-17-2004, 10:45 PM
Check on my engine tuning
Just want to make sure I'm going about things in the right way:
Start off by richening everything 4 turns on the LSN 6 on the HSN (InitialD's recomendation) and start the engine. I'll then adjust the idle speed to get the engine to keep idling. If the engine dies after I remove the glow plug starter, then I'll lean out the idle until the engine idles without the glow plug starter.
Then I use the pinch method (FAQ) until the engine speed just raises and then dies, then I richen the LSN back one step.
Next I apply some throttle to see if the engine runs clean up the rev range - if not then I lean out the HSN. After leaning the HSN, I check the LSN with the pinch method again to see if it needs adjusting.
Once the engine runs ok with a bit of throttle, I put the car onto the track. On pulling away, I give a bit of throttle - if the engine dies now, I lean out the HSN a little more (1/12th turns) and re-check the LSN. I do this until I can apply the throttle without the engine dieing.
Then I'll do a 3 lap fast run check the temp - if it is below 95 degrees (approx 200F), then I lean the HSN out a bit more and re-check the LSN.
Once I get the engine to around 100-105C then I'm reasonably happy. Go for a longer run and check the temp is still stable.
If during my hot laps the engine revs remain high when I release the throttle (and then they drop down after a few seconds), I'll lean the LSN a little more until the engine revs drop down immediately after releaseing the throttle.
At the end of the longer run, I'll check that the temp is still in the 100-105C range, if not, then I'll richen the HSN a little.
This should be a safe method?
Cheers, Mark.
Start off by richening everything 4 turns on the LSN 6 on the HSN (InitialD's recomendation) and start the engine. I'll then adjust the idle speed to get the engine to keep idling. If the engine dies after I remove the glow plug starter, then I'll lean out the idle until the engine idles without the glow plug starter.
Then I use the pinch method (FAQ) until the engine speed just raises and then dies, then I richen the LSN back one step.
Next I apply some throttle to see if the engine runs clean up the rev range - if not then I lean out the HSN. After leaning the HSN, I check the LSN with the pinch method again to see if it needs adjusting.
Once the engine runs ok with a bit of throttle, I put the car onto the track. On pulling away, I give a bit of throttle - if the engine dies now, I lean out the HSN a little more (1/12th turns) and re-check the LSN. I do this until I can apply the throttle without the engine dieing.
Then I'll do a 3 lap fast run check the temp - if it is below 95 degrees (approx 200F), then I lean the HSN out a bit more and re-check the LSN.
Once I get the engine to around 100-105C then I'm reasonably happy. Go for a longer run and check the temp is still stable.
If during my hot laps the engine revs remain high when I release the throttle (and then they drop down after a few seconds), I'll lean the LSN a little more until the engine revs drop down immediately after releaseing the throttle.
At the end of the longer run, I'll check that the temp is still in the 100-105C range, if not, then I'll richen the HSN a little.
This should be a safe method?
Cheers, Mark.
05-17-2004, 11:06 PM
our new serpent clutch shoes are in. Testing shows a significant gain in punch and performance.
05-17-2004, 11:10 PM
Re: Check on my engine tuning
That sounds about right !
05-17-2004, 11:12 PM
Originally posted by Motorman
new serpent clutch shoes are in. Testing shows a significant gain in punch and performance.
new serpent clutch shoes are in. Testing shows a significant gain in punch and performance.
The car is already fast. Faster means more trouble ! 
Hey Dennis, thanks for the pic. Cool to know that it'll improve performance. Are these available only through you or through RDLogic?
05-17-2004, 11:15 PM
only from me at the moment. The clutch allows you to use the mugen spring that comes on the MTX3 or the serpent 1/8th scale stock spring with weighted flyweights. It also allows you to set the engagement point higher with no slip when it comes in. The car has wicked off the corner snap and unreal second gear punch. (scary)
05-17-2004, 11:16 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
The car is already fast. Faster means more trouble !
Hey Dennis, thanks for the pic. Cool to know that it'll improve performance. Are these available only through you or through RDLogic?
The car is already fast. Faster means more trouble ! Hey Dennis, thanks for the pic. Cool to know that it'll improve performance. Are these available only through you or through RDLogic?
Look, I've already melted my engine, as I was going so fast 
05-17-2004, 11:19 PM
Just rebuilt the 705 - going to see how it runs at the track today. Should be interesting coming straight from the 710.
D, are you still swaping between the two.
I'm using on of Rene's MACH setups, as they work well on my circuit, too!
Cheers, Mark.
D, are you still swaping between the two.
I'm using on of Rene's MACH setups, as they work well on my circuit, too!
Cheers, Mark.
05-17-2004, 11:20 PM
by the way I do like the new car but those alumunium pivots on the front got to go. Yea don't hit nuthin I can deal with that but geez when they snap off the arm is uselless as you cant get the broken part out. I think I'm putting 705 balls on the front end.
05-17-2004, 11:21 PM
Originally posted by Motorman
only from me at the moment. The clutch allows you to use the mugen spring that comes on the MTX3 or the serpent 1/8th scale stock spring with weighted flyweights. It also allows you to set the engagement point higher with no slip when it comes in. The car has wicked off the corner snap and unreal second gear punch. (scary)
only from me at the moment. The clutch allows you to use the mugen spring that comes on the MTX3 or the serpent 1/8th scale stock spring with weighted flyweights. It also allows you to set the engagement point higher with no slip when it comes in. The car has wicked off the corner snap and unreal second gear punch. (scary)
05-17-2004, 11:24 PM
Originally posted by markp27
D, are you still swaping between the two.
D, are you still swaping between the two.
I need another servo to compliment the 705.
05-17-2004, 11:26 PM
Originally posted by Motorman
by the way I do like the new car but those alumunium pivots on the front got to go. Yea don't hit nuthin I can deal with that but geez when they snap off the arm is uselless as you cant get the broken part out. I think I'm putting 705 balls on the front end.
by the way I do like the new car but those alumunium pivots on the front got to go. Yea don't hit nuthin I can deal with that but geez when they snap off the arm is uselless as you cant get the broken part out. I think I'm putting 705 balls on the front end.
), but I know from the 705, that the Alu pivots are really soft and bend easily
05-17-2004, 11:27 PM
Originally posted by Motorman
by the way I do like the new car but those alumunium pivots on the front got to go. Yea don't hit nuthin I can deal with that but geez when they snap off the arm is uselless as you cant get the broken part out. I think I'm putting 705 balls on the front end.
by the way I do like the new car but those alumunium pivots on the front got to go. Yea don't hit nuthin I can deal with that but geez when they snap off the arm is uselless as you cant get the broken part out. I think I'm putting 705 balls on the front end.
Anyway, it would be good if you could cut the 705 / Impulse / 950 pivot balls shorter like the aluminum ones on the 710. I can't remember their measurement off my head but it makes the front trackwidth setting easier. If not, you need to thread in pretty deep with the longer steel ones. Don't know if that is possible on the 710.
05-17-2004, 11:28 PM
Originally posted by InitialD
I'm guilty spending too much time on the 2nd wifey ! I need another servo to compliment the 705.
I'm guilty spending too much time on the 2nd wifey !
I need another servo to compliment the 705.
man, I thought the 705 wasn't that bad Now it'll be interesting to see how it runs as my driving is much, much better than last year