Serpent 710
Originally posted by roadrage
yes i race in expert class,i have 2 mtx-3 but i am goin to trade 1 for a 710,i am alright with tuning my car,but i got my dad insted of a lhb to help with do thing i dont no how to do since im only 13. well thanx for your opions,and if anyone has anygood set-ups for it can u please post them,
thanx,Austin!!
yes i race in expert class,i have 2 mtx-3 but i am goin to trade 1 for a 710,i am alright with tuning my car,but i got my dad insted of a lhb to help with do thing i dont no how to do since im only 13. well thanx for your opions,and if anyone has anygood set-ups for it can u please post them,
thanx,Austin!!
Re: Strange problem with the Centax
Originally posted by markp27
The only thing I can think of was that an Mugen guy hit the side of my car quite hard, just after I blew him away but I don't see how this would have caused the two bearing to fail.
The only thing I can think of was that an Mugen guy hit the side of my car quite hard, just after I blew him away but I don't see how this would have caused the two bearing to fail.
I had that happen in Thailand race. My pinion got scraped on the tarmac after getting T boned (luckily shark pipe !) by a 1/8th scale car while practising. Found that the 2 normal clutch bearings just went bust simultanously. Somehow I had radio problems after that accident and could not continue practising. I went back to the hotel later on and changed to another engine for the race day next day and kept the other engine and only noticed the bent shaft when I came back home from Thailand...
If I were you, I'd take out the engine and the piston / sleeve / conrod out. Leave the crankshaft in with the bearings and try to spin the crankshaft manually by hand. Observe if the crankshaft tip wobbles...
Re: Servicing metal shielded bearing.
Originally posted by markp27
Fortunately I have a couple of old centax shielded bearings which I can put in my 710, but one is quite gritty. I've cleaned it in degreaser and as I can't open the bearing, I've simply soaked it in serpent bearing oil. Seems nice and smooth now, but is there a better solution?
Fortunately I have a couple of old centax shielded bearings which I can put in my 710, but one is quite gritty. I've cleaned it in degreaser and as I can't open the bearing, I've simply soaked it in serpent bearing oil. Seems nice and smooth now, but is there a better solution?
Re: Re: Strange problem with the Centax
Originally posted by InitialD
If I were you, I'd take out the engine and the piston / sleeve / conrod out. Leave the crankshaft in with the bearings and try to spin the crankshaft manually by hand. Observe if the crankshaft tip wobbles...
If I were you, I'd take out the engine and the piston / sleeve / conrod out. Leave the crankshaft in with the bearings and try to spin the crankshaft manually by hand. Observe if the crankshaft tip wobbles...
Re: Re: Servicing metal shielded bearing.
Originally posted by InitialD
Exactly what you do... Usually, I just spray using a nitro cleaner or soak it ! If it's still gritty, I just throw it away.
Exactly what you do... Usually, I just spray using a nitro cleaner or soak it ! If it's still gritty, I just throw it away.
Re: Re: Re: Servicing metal shielded bearing.
Originally posted by markp27
Do you think the Serpent bearing oil is heavy enough for the centax bearings?
Do you think the Serpent bearing oil is heavy enough for the centax bearings?
Furthermore I think the light oil would spin inside the clutch if applied too much on the bearing.
Re: Re: Strange problem with the Centax
Originally posted by InitialD
Hi Mark. I don't know if what I'm going to say would be good news or is correct info... It could be caused by the engine crankshaft being bent. Did the car hit the 2 speed / clutch side? Did you strip any spurs or pinions?
Hi Mark. I don't know if what I'm going to say would be good news or is correct info... It could be caused by the engine crankshaft being bent. Did the car hit the 2 speed / clutch side? Did you strip any spurs or pinions?
I can't remember where the dasterdly Mugen hit, but I see that my exhaust has a bit of a dent in it from the pulley, so maybe it was on the opposite side where he hit.
No spurs or pinions affected.
On a side note, my gears on my centax are looking pretty worn - do they wear quickly?
Cheers, Mark.
Re: Re: Re: Strange problem with the Centax
Originally posted by markp27
The crank looks ok at first glance - I haven't taken it out of the motor, but I undid the glow plug and span the fly wheel - I could see no deflection in the movement of the crakshaft.
The crank looks ok at first glance - I haven't taken it out of the motor, but I undid the glow plug and span the fly wheel - I could see no deflection in the movement of the crakshaft.
Originally posted by markp27
I can't remember where the dasterdly Mugen hit, but I see that my exhaust has a bit of a dent in it from the pulley, so maybe it was on the opposite side where he hit.
I can't remember where the dasterdly Mugen hit, but I see that my exhaust has a bit of a dent in it from the pulley, so maybe it was on the opposite side where he hit.
Originally posted by markp27
On a side note, my gears on my centax are looking pretty worn - do they wear quickly?
On a side note, my gears on my centax are looking pretty worn - do they wear quickly?
Checked the crank - it's fine - no bends Nice to look inside the motor, though - first time I'd taken it to pieces
I'll have to get some spares for this, I think
Cheers, Mark.
I'll have to get some spares for this, I think
Cheers, Mark.
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
InitialD no i dont drive 1 but i wish,is there sum1 my age that does?
Re: Re: Re: Servicing metal shielded bearing.
Originally posted by markp27
Do you think the Serpent bearing oil is heavy enough for the centax bearings?
Do you think the Serpent bearing oil is heavy enough for the centax bearings?
So any tips "D" on keeping the dog bones in place when running the front diff? I'd really appreciate some help, thanks....
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Need some setups
Originally posted by InitialD
It's true that driving a oneway and a full time 4WD needs different driving styles. That is why I am really wanting to go back to oneway. I have actually driven oneway all my time with the Impulse and 705. I only tried diff and front solid when I got the 710.
For the front ball diff, the same setup as per the front solid was fine except I thought I changed to all around 40 shore tires instead of using softer front. Then I started playing around with a different setup. That too worked out pretty well on small and medium size tracks.
************************************
Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: -1mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -1.5 degree
Camber Right: -1.5 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Toe-in: -2.0 degree (Toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 1mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 0 mm under
Upstop (mm): None
Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 6mm
Set-up ride height: 7mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -3.5 degree
Camber Right: -3.0 degree
Toe-in: +2.0 degree
Track-width: 200 mm
Roll-center position upper: UTI
Roll-center position lower: LT
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): Level
Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 35W
Holes: 4 x 1.2 mm
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock-tower position: 1st hole
Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 35W
Holes: 4 x 1.2 mm
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole
Lower shock position: outside
Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: Stock
Position: 0 degree (flat)
Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: 0 mm from the end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside
Tires Front:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:
Tires Rear:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:
Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 21T
Gear 1st: 61T
Gear 2nd: 57T
Front axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: Medium (when hot)
Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: Light (when hot)
Aerodynamics:
Body: Mazda 6
Wing: Standard
Gurney strip: -
Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMax 5 port
Version: P5
Head shims: 0.4mm
Glowplug: 6TF
Pipe: RDLogic (7.2 mm inline)
Header: Novarossi (short inline manifold)
Length: Approx 88 mm
Fuel: 25% Model Technic
************************************
I used a little more droop due tot he track being bumpy. I tried playing with 4 x 1.2 mm hole shocks with 35wt oil and yellow springs. It works quite OK for our bumpy tracks. Sometimes it makes it too bouncy especially with the problem I had in the rear ball diff outdrive. Perhaps I will try 40wt or even 50wt with 5 x 1.2 mm holes like our friends in Holland and see how it goes.
It's true that driving a oneway and a full time 4WD needs different driving styles. That is why I am really wanting to go back to oneway. I have actually driven oneway all my time with the Impulse and 705. I only tried diff and front solid when I got the 710.
For the front ball diff, the same setup as per the front solid was fine except I thought I changed to all around 40 shore tires instead of using softer front. Then I started playing around with a different setup. That too worked out pretty well on small and medium size tracks.
************************************
Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: -1mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -1.5 degree
Camber Right: -1.5 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Toe-in: -2.0 degree (Toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 1mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 0 mm under
Upstop (mm): None
Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 6mm
Set-up ride height: 7mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -3.5 degree
Camber Right: -3.0 degree
Toe-in: +2.0 degree
Track-width: 200 mm
Roll-center position upper: UTI
Roll-center position lower: LT
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): Level
Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 35W
Holes: 4 x 1.2 mm
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock-tower position: 1st hole
Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 35W
Holes: 4 x 1.2 mm
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole
Lower shock position: outside
Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: Stock
Position: 0 degree (flat)
Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: 0 mm from the end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside
Tires Front:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:
Tires Rear:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:
Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 21T
Gear 1st: 61T
Gear 2nd: 57T
Front axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: Medium (when hot)
Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: Light (when hot)
Aerodynamics:
Body: Mazda 6
Wing: Standard
Gurney strip: -
Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMax 5 port
Version: P5
Head shims: 0.4mm
Glowplug: 6TF
Pipe: RDLogic (7.2 mm inline)
Header: Novarossi (short inline manifold)
Length: Approx 88 mm
Fuel: 25% Model Technic
************************************
I used a little more droop due tot he track being bumpy. I tried playing with 4 x 1.2 mm hole shocks with 35wt oil and yellow springs. It works quite OK for our bumpy tracks. Sometimes it makes it too bouncy especially with the problem I had in the rear ball diff outdrive. Perhaps I will try 40wt or even 50wt with 5 x 1.2 mm holes like our friends in Holland and see how it goes.
Tech Addict
Charging batteries
I have just purchased an apex infinity charger to charge my reciever and glow plug cells can you please tell me what amp rate i should be charging at?
Re: Charging batteries
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
I have just purchased an apex infinity charger to charge my reciever and glow plug cells can you please tell me what amp rate i should be charging at?
I have just purchased an apex infinity charger to charge my reciever and glow plug cells can you please tell me what amp rate i should be charging at?