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Old 05-10-2004, 09:20 PM
  #10081  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Need some setups

Originally posted by kreidel
Do you like using the front ball diff more than the solid axle?
I found it easier to tune with the front ball diff. If your track has a long high speed sweeper, the front solid would cut speed away. That's why I choose to run the front ball diff.

I felt that running a front ball diff is not as stable as the solid front especially on a small tight track. Braking and driving around the car in tight infields is very stable with the front solid. You can drive very aggressively and still steer the car in the driving lines.

Damn, I like to drive and test with front oneway, solid front and front diff ! I think I need 3 cars ! Cuts time.
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:28 PM
  #10082  
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quick tips:
Add your front camber.
Thanks ill give it a try,
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:41 PM
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Need some setups

Originally posted by InitialD
I found it easier to tune with the front ball diff. If your track has a long high speed sweeper, the front solid would cut speed away. That's why I choose to run the front ball diff.

I felt that running a front ball diff is not as stable as the solid front especially on a small tight track. Braking and driving around the car in tight infields is very stable with the front solid. You can drive very aggressively and still steer the car in the driving lines.

Damn, I like to drive and test with front oneway, solid front and front diff ! I think I need 3 cars ! Cuts time.
The two smaller tracks I race at dont really have any sweepers. I drove a guys 710 with a oneway and thought about trying it out but I am used to driving in deeper onpower and this permits me to use a different line so I have more room and less people around me. I drive the big tracks with the oneway for sure, they say it's hard to switch back and forth since the driving is different but I don't mind. I have been fairly sucessful at the small tracks with using the solid axle up front so I will give your setup a try. Is there another setup you use for your front ball diff?
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:44 PM
  #10084  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Need some setups

Originally posted by kreidel
The two smaller tracks I race at dont really have any sweepers. I drove a guys 710 with a oneway and thought about trying it out but I am used to driving in deeper onpower and this permits me to use a different line so I have more room and less people around me. I drive the big tracks with the oneway for sure, they say it's hard to switch back and forth since the driving is different but I don't mind. I have been fairly sucessful at the small tracks with using the solid axle up front so I will give your setup a try. Is there another setup you use for your front ball diff?
hey kevin what was the shock set up that you had on my 710 when you had it(oil and how many holes front and rear)?
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:03 PM
  #10085  
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Default Re: Rear Differential (Teddy Syach ideas)

Originally posted by wolfejohne
I saw this posted sometime back about putting a Ball Bearing in the rear diff pulley.

This can be found at: http://www.daltonshop.com/tips_tricks.htm


I would like to hear feedback about this modification, good or bad?

I did not find this in Marks FAQ!!!

Before doing that, try to make diff pulley spins free on the axle.
Use only a reamer to taper (diff pulley) hole where it sits on both plate. )l l(
Then assemble the diff again.
If you like your diff act now... then putting bearing in between is making it more consistant and durable
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:03 PM
  #10086  
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Default Re: Re: Been to the track again!

Originally posted by InitialD
Did you fix the 2 speed shoe spacing between bell housing? Perhaps the LSN is still rich.
I put an extra 0.2mm shim behind the thrust bearing and took away a 0.2mm shim from the spring tension adjuster - the engine comes in really good now
When I'm running hard and come away from the throttle - the revs stay high for a few seconds and then drop down - does that mean the idle is too rich or too lean? I check with the pinch method and the revs rose still
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:23 PM
  #10087  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Race tracks in India - Pakistan

Originally posted by Marcos.S710
no follow up meeting yet it will be next week!!the house its 98% finished,and i will be racing this sunday at a mugen summer points race series!(with a serpent of-course)
Hey hey... How are things goin'? I decided to take the day off yesterday... WOW, 12 pages to get through... Hope you did well with the race on sunday, I began the run-in process with my nova... WHAT A SCREEMER!!!, I knew it was fast, but WOW!. I struggled to get the temp up on the bench though, so I put a 'glove' over the heatsink, still only managed to get it to ~100 degrees Celsius. I have just about completed my 710, what a beauty. I mounted my body, and found that it is a but difficult after it has been painted, I must admit, I normally only paint after it has been marked for holes... I have the electrics in the car, but have misplaced my throttle spring, will get a couple the weekend and then get some batteries so I can get the car going... What a beauty....
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:37 PM
  #10088  
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Sounds good :-) You're going to love your car

Did the parts from Serpent arrive yet?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:04 PM
  #10089  
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Thrust bearing grease...

I found some decent stuff that is no doubt cheaper than any supergrease and does not carry the name MUGEN ...

This stuff it Spanjaard Non-melting grease. It is molybdenum grease that is designed for any high temperature application that is under high stress. It comes in a green 100ml tube. It is black, but is sooo smooth, I put it on my differencial and my thrust bearing, what a difference, I had some MIP Diff Lube on my diffe, a little gritty, took it off, put this on, and soo smooth... I have had it in my toolbox for years, bought it in my electric days for the gearbox. It is thick, and sticky.
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:06 PM
  #10090  
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Originally posted by hudy
I think that the 710 has earned a new name "glass car" this motherfucker breaks if you blow air at it very weak plastic and parts I sold mine for 50 dollars at the track very dissapointed

I would have given you 200 for it.
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:14 PM
  #10091  
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Originally posted by Marcos.S710
Hey BaxterC , i see that you changed your avatar
Yup, I changed it cos I wanna sell Palmaris motors and not look like the enemy, cos then why advertise the other motors....? I will change it again once I have got some decent picks of my car. I like the paint scheme, it goes well with the 710, I will do it again on the Mazda 6 and the MG I think, I will see what my better half says, she is creative.
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:57 PM
  #10092  
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Havent ran my 710 in about 2 months time. But I plan to run it in about 2 weeks. You know how it is when you get some new pootytang dont have time for anything Do I need to readjust my needle settings or should my NovaMax engine fire right up
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:45 AM
  #10093  
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Default Re: Re: Re: Been to the track again!

Originally posted by markp27
I put an extra 0.2mm shim behind the thrust bearing and took away a 0.2mm shim from the spring tension adjuster - the engine comes in really good now
I was referring to step 9.2 on page 29...

Originally posted by markp27
When I'm running hard and come away from the throttle - the revs stay high for a few seconds and then drop down - does that mean the idle is too rich or too lean? I check with the pinch method and the revs rose still
I believe you're trying to increase the idle screw in order not to make your engine die due to the rich LSN setting. Decrease the idle screw and lean the LSN. I believe the problem will go away.
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:49 AM
  #10094  
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Originally posted by rwisejr
I would have given you 200 for it.
Damn. You're spoiling the market !
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:50 AM
  #10095  
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Originally posted by cyba888
Do I need to readjust my needle settings or should my NovaMax engine fire right up
It should fire up just like it did the last time if there was nothing wrong with it or if the glow plug is still in working order...
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