Serpent 710
03-31-2004, 08:02 PM
#7381
Re: Re: Thread fix for plastic ?
Originally posted by InitialD
I have heard of people putting a little CA glue and let it harden before screwing into the plastic. Or you could use longer screws if that's possible.
I have heard of people putting a little CA glue and let it harden before screwing into the plastic. Or you could use longer screws if that's possible.
It will get you by until the first crash.
03-31-2004, 08:50 PM
#7383
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Like was posted by both Schrijver99 and Julius Efra restrict us to 16% max. However, whether you are running 16% or 30% is not an issue. Ambient Temperature is more a deciding factor. I would guess that Malaysia is a really hot country most of the time. In this situation 30% would be more beneficial as it helps cool the engine. But on cooler areas like the UK were we rarely see over 12degC at best of times 16% can actually make the engine perform better. Nitro requires high temps to combust so in cold temps excess nitro content doesnt benefit as it lays in the cylinder. Due to not getting full combustion this reduces the power of the engine for starters and also after a while induces the engine to start ceasing (vapour-lock) or running iratically. This is one of the most common reasons for constant flameouts.
Like was posted by both Schrijver99 and Julius Efra restrict us to 16% max. However, whether you are running 16% or 30% is not an issue. Ambient Temperature is more a deciding factor. I would guess that Malaysia is a really hot country most of the time. In this situation 30% would be more beneficial as it helps cool the engine. But on cooler areas like the UK were we rarely see over 12degC at best of times 16% can actually make the engine perform better. Nitro requires high temps to combust so in cold temps excess nitro content doesnt benefit as it lays in the cylinder. Due to not getting full combustion this reduces the power of the engine for starters and also after a while induces the engine to start ceasing (vapour-lock) or running iratically. This is one of the most common reasons for constant flameouts.
Originally posted by BaxterC
JFC Tech, if you go to the your LHS and ask them to mix you some fuel to these specs, you could go down to about 10% nitro, 10% Oil, and 80% Methanol... and whip guys with 16% nitro, and 12% oil... Small tip to help for power...
JFC Tech, if you go to the your LHS and ask them to mix you some fuel to these specs, you could go down to about 10% nitro, 10% Oil, and 80% Methanol... and whip guys with 16% nitro, and 12% oil... Small tip to help for power...
thanks for the tips though.
03-31-2004, 08:50 PM
#7384
Originally posted by jscamry
hey all this may be a dumb question, but on JABRONI's car why are all the woven carbon fiver pieces so white and not greyish??
hey all this may be a dumb question, but on JABRONI's car why are all the woven carbon fiver pieces so white and not greyish??
03-31-2004, 08:52 PM
#7385
Re: Calling MarkP and InitialD!
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
These two guys and everyone else here will love my new toy!
Check out the racing section at RC Reviews!
These two guys and everyone else here will love my new toy!
Check out the racing section at RC Reviews!
Ehm, it does run on the operating of the chosen ones?
03-31-2004, 08:55 PM
#7386
Originally posted by jfc_tech
I wish my lhs can do like this but they dont. if i ask them whats the castor content..they don't know either. but i understand..they just do selling thanks for the tips though.
I wish my lhs can do like this but they dont. if i ask them whats the castor content..they don't know either. but i understand..they just do selling
thanks for the tips though.
03-31-2004, 08:59 PM
#7387
Tech Fanatic
Re: Radio Tray Work
Originally posted by JABRONI
1thing to consider when you race this car, your mechanic must not spill the fuel. Since it was very wide open on that area.
Just my idea.
03-31-2004, 09:20 PM
#7388
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
1thing to consider when you race this car, your mechanic must not spill the fuel. Since it was very wide open on that area.
Just my idea
Just my idea
03-31-2004, 09:27 PM
#7389
Originally posted by Profoxcg
I am almost used to having my batery showered somehow.... My mechanic always spills. i wish serpent had made the tank sit on top of just the chassis like in a NTC3 for example.
I am almost used to having my batery showered somehow.... My mechanic always spills. i wish serpent had made the tank sit on top of just the chassis like in a NTC3 for example.
03-31-2004, 09:31 PM
#7390
Originally posted by Profoxcg
I am almost used to having my batery showered somehow.... My mechanic always spills. i wish serpent had made the tank sit on top of just the chassis like in a NTC3 for example.
I am almost used to having my batery showered somehow.... My mechanic always spills. i wish serpent had made the tank sit on top of just the chassis like in a NTC3 for example.
..luckily the battery not spoilt. The only thing to do is just wrapped the battery. so far after hard race, the battery is still ok.
03-31-2004, 09:55 PM
#7392
Tech Fanatic
Re: Re: Radio Tray Work
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Very nice and clean !!
1thing to consider when you race this car, your mechanic must not spill the fuel. Since it was very wide open on that area.
Just my idea.
Very nice and clean !!
1thing to consider when you race this car, your mechanic must not spill the fuel. Since it was very wide open on that area.
Just my idea.
The option part seems not covering that area.
03-31-2004, 10:26 PM
#7393
If the SSG parts are suppose to be thicker due to it being more flexible, would it still be lighter than the stock parts?
03-31-2004, 10:36 PM
#7394
Originally posted by cyba888
If the SSG parts are suppose to be thicker due to it being more flexible, would it still be lighter than the stock parts?
If the SSG parts are suppose to be thicker due to it being more flexible, would it still be lighter than the stock parts?
03-31-2004, 11:29 PM
#7395
Originally posted by InitialD
No idea but looking at the weight posted (pretty close to stock), weight additions from the aluminum parts and weight savings from the titanium shafts even out leaving the SSG parts to be about the same weight as the stock graphite ones... Just guessing here.
No idea but looking at the weight posted (pretty close to stock), weight additions from the aluminum parts and weight savings from the titanium shafts even out leaving the SSG parts to be about the same weight as the stock graphite ones... Just guessing here.