Serpent 710
#7366
Re: Radio Tray Work
Originally posted by JABRONI
Can you post a picture of the car from underneath? This way we can see the wiring routing you did.
#7367
Calling MarkP and InitialD!
These two guys and everyone else here will love my new toy!
Check out the racing section at RC Reviews!
Check out the racing section at RC Reviews!
#7369
Originally posted by Profoxcg
what does that exactly mean? powerband
what does that exactly mean? powerband
By smooth PB I understand progressive... Some engines are pigs at low RPM's and get explosive power in the uppers... Some are mad at low and die out in the high end
In the case of having big clutchbell clearence the power will come in a harsh way due to engaging at rather high rpm's where the engine has more power
#7370
Thread fix for plastic ?
After taking out the rear diff about 5 times I "wore through" the threads of the rear Bearing holders (plastic part that goes fixed to chassis)... I put some red loctite and it seems it will hold ok for this last time
Do you guys have a fix for these worn threads? or you just change the part?
Do you guys have a fix for these worn threads? or you just change the part?
#7371
No Splices Allowed
Originally posted by Profoxcg
i the receiver pocket larger ?? can you post more pics of that area?
I have also shortened my servo wires, so its very clean and organized.
Also,
can someone tell me what if the benefit of using a limited in the carb? i have attached a pic if my engine and hopefuly you can see my new end bell for the clutch.
i the receiver pocket larger ?? can you post more pics of that area?
I have also shortened my servo wires, so its very clean and organized.
Also,
can someone tell me what if the benefit of using a limited in the carb? i have attached a pic if my engine and hopefuly you can see my new end bell for the clutch.
Microswitch installed on backside of the cover.
Just take the one screw out of the front pull outwards and you
can easily change your crystal with the shortened wires still at the end that does not rotate out.
#7372
Re: Radio Tray Work
Originally posted by JABRONI
Finished clipping all the fat off of the servo's etc... and Finally got my radio tray finished.
Put new ends on the wires and transferred the wires on the battery pack over to the r/h side of the car.
Less clutter all the way around , and in addition to the wire shortening I added some extenders to the radio tray with rubber grommets in the holes to dampen any vibes or impacts that may occur.
Finished clipping all the fat off of the servo's etc... and Finally got my radio tray finished.
Put new ends on the wires and transferred the wires on the battery pack over to the r/h side of the car.
Less clutter all the way around , and in addition to the wire shortening I added some extenders to the radio tray with rubber grommets in the holes to dampen any vibes or impacts that may occur.
#7373
Soldering Gun
Negative Cyba, it's a Hakko 936.
Pretty good output.
I think alot of Electric Racers use something like it.
I put a quarter inch tip on it so that it takes less time to
solder battery ends.
Smaller tip of course for smaller parts.
Pretty good output.
I think alot of Electric Racers use something like it.
I put a quarter inch tip on it so that it takes less time to
solder battery ends.
Smaller tip of course for smaller parts.
#7374
Re: Calling MarkP and InitialD!
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Check out the racing section at RC Reviews!
Check out the racing section at RC Reviews!
#7375
Re: Thread fix for plastic ?
Originally posted by cox049
Do you guys have a fix for these worn threads? or you just change the part?
Do you guys have a fix for these worn threads? or you just change the part?
#7376
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
1) extend my run time. When racing on long flowing tracks with a 5 port turbo engine, I sometimes find that I run out of fuel at just under 5 minutes. Its not enough to complete the heats! A carb restrictor, while reducing overall power slightly, will definitely help in this situation.
2) to have a smoother power-band. Again, depending on the track and your throttle finger style, you may find that on tight technical parts of certain tracks that you're overshooting despite just only touching the throttle. A carb restrictor can also help here.
1) extend my run time. When racing on long flowing tracks with a 5 port turbo engine, I sometimes find that I run out of fuel at just under 5 minutes. Its not enough to complete the heats! A carb restrictor, while reducing overall power slightly, will definitely help in this situation.
2) to have a smoother power-band. Again, depending on the track and your throttle finger style, you may find that on tight technical parts of certain tracks that you're overshooting despite just only touching the throttle. A carb restrictor can also help here.
Hey Uncle Sow, have you done any racing there yet?
#7377
Originally posted by cyba888
10-11 months...I hope its because of the 705 problems that people are talking about. If the 710 proves to be a great car all around then it should stay around for some time.
10-11 months...I hope its because of the 705 problems that people are talking about. If the 710 proves to be a great car all around then it should stay around for some time.
#7378
Re: Radio Tray Work
Originally posted by JABRONI
If I translates that to metric, that would be 1621.592723 grams. Is that correct? A bodyshell and a PT would make it close to legal.
#7379
Originally posted by InitialD
Hey Uncle Sow, have you done any racing there yet?
Hey Uncle Sow, have you done any racing there yet?
I need to gear down my 710 because the track is technical and the concrete surface is smooth and minimal grip!
Gonna race the outdoor track this Sunday ... if its dry and sunny.
#7380
Re: No Splices Allowed
Originally posted by JABRONI
Profoxcg/SowNSteady
Microswitch installed on backside of the cover.
Just take the one screw out of the front pull outwards and you
can easily change your crystal with the shortened wires still at the end that does not rotate out. ......
Profoxcg/SowNSteady
Microswitch installed on backside of the cover.
Just take the one screw out of the front pull outwards and you
can easily change your crystal with the shortened wires still at the end that does not rotate out. ......