Serpent 710
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
D,
Which has more bite? As in higher coefficient of friction. The yellow shoe or the ori black shoe?
Which has more bite? As in higher coefficient of friction. The yellow shoe or the ori black shoe?
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
At the gouda track (small and tight) i saw rick cut up a yellow shoe in tree, and then using it like the normal weights would be used.. this was for the 710....
Originally Posted by jag
D, so you cut the flyweights in lieu of cutting up a clutch shoe? Do you cut off the end without the hole... meaning do you leave the hole in the flyweight?
Anyway, some time late last year, I drilled another hole on the opposite side of each flyweights so that with two holes on each flyweight, I could mount 2 each M3x4 grub screws. After that, I found the clutch was better without those grub screws and now all the flyweights have two holes each on opposite sides.
Originally Posted by jag
Do you have a picture of how Rick/you lighten the flyweights?
Just ream out with the bodyshell reamer and create several dimples on the back surface of the clutch shoe. Make sure the holes do not get to the front side surface of the clutch shoe.
Originally Posted by jag
How much preload and gap do you use with this setup? I am assuming the use of a yellow clutch and stiff spring.
Don't you have any Serpent guy that can help you at the track side in Florida?
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by InitialD
Using it like normal weights would mean mounting the flyweights into the flywheel pins as per the manual or IN BETWEEN the flywheel pins?
as per manual, he did, idd...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
InitialD:
Thankyou once again for your imput I have always found the support for Serpent to be alot better then that of other cars i have owned. This being both from the factory an fellow racers, come Christmas i will have to see what Santa brings
BB
Thankyou once again for your imput I have always found the support for Serpent to be alot better then that of other cars i have owned. This being both from the factory an fellow racers, come Christmas i will have to see what Santa brings
BB
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
Originally Posted by InitialD
Where's that old bloke sparsky?
Well, in RC you need to be very patient. There are some days when nothing will work correctly.
Well, in RC you need to be very patient. There are some days when nothing will work correctly.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
Originally Posted by InitialD
I left the original hole in each of my flyweights after I cut it up. Somebody pointed out that it may not be good as it'll create imbalance with just one hole at the side. I guess you could cut it out when you trim the flyweight to fit in between the flywheel pins?
Anyway, some time late last year, I drilled another hole on the opposite side of each flyweights so that with two holes on each flyweight, I could mount 2 each M3x4 grub screws. After that, I found the clutch was better without those grub screws and now all the flyweights have two holes each on opposite sides.
No I don't. It's not the flyweight that was lightened. It was the clutch shoes !
Just ream out with the bodyshell reamer and create several dimples on the back surface of the clutch shoe. Make sure the holes do not get to the front side surface of the clutch shoe.
If I recall, it's about 1.5 to 1.7mm. But that measurement would depend on the track. I suggest to set the tension of the Centax spring at the track.
Don't you have any Serpent guy that can help you at the track side in Florida?
Anyway, some time late last year, I drilled another hole on the opposite side of each flyweights so that with two holes on each flyweight, I could mount 2 each M3x4 grub screws. After that, I found the clutch was better without those grub screws and now all the flyweights have two holes each on opposite sides.
No I don't. It's not the flyweight that was lightened. It was the clutch shoes !
Just ream out with the bodyshell reamer and create several dimples on the back surface of the clutch shoe. Make sure the holes do not get to the front side surface of the clutch shoe.
If I recall, it's about 1.5 to 1.7mm. But that measurement would depend on the track. I suggest to set the tension of the Centax spring at the track.
Don't you have any Serpent guy that can help you at the track side in Florida?
InitialD: Because i am still trying to get a grasp on these clutch mods, i have another silly question for you
You said before that your modified flyweights had holes in them from previous attempts with grub screws... If someone was to cut the flyweight to sit in between the clutch pins without the holes in them will this have an impact at all?
BB
Originally Posted by Greg M
What did you use to trim down the top of the cover?
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
If someone was to cut the flyweight to sit in between the clutch pins without the holes in them will this have an impact at all?
Perhaps if I can get a new set of flyweights, I'll try starting it out from scratch.
Thanks everyone for your help on my clutch problem. Anyway, can anyone tell me where I can order serpent parts/optional parts from in U.S? Can I order from serpent directly? Can someone give me a link directly to them? Thanks!
So JAg, how did the new setup work?
Originally Posted by Pyramid
manual milling machine
The key word here is "manual"
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by gfd2726
Thanks everyone for your help on my clutch problem. Anyway, can anyone tell me where I can order serpent parts/optional parts from in U.S? Can I order from serpent directly? Can someone give me a link directly to them? Thanks!
We have a few dealers in California. Please send me an email to [email protected] and let me know your location to give youa list of the nearest dealers
Thanks
Paolo Morganti
Serpent USA
Paolo...congrats on the double win at the Great Lakes Challenge. I hope to see a really good report on Mytsn I'm sure it's alot easier writing after a victory. BTW...you should tell Scotty he needs to start posting.
Originally Posted by Julius
So JAg, how did the new setup work?
Now my question is, when I switch to 40's the rear will probably get a little worse (more loose). What should I do to get more bite in the rear?
My setup is:
Droop:
F - 0
R - 6
Ride Height:
F & R 5 mm
Camber:
F - 1.5
R - 3
Toe:
F - 1 (out)
R - 3
Sway Bar:
F - Flat
R - Stock (2mm from end)
Diff:
F - Slightly loose
R - Medium
Shocks:
F - Red springs, 35 wt, 3 holes, mounted 1 hole up from lowest
R - Red springs, 35 wt, 3 holes, mounted 1 hole up from lowest
Roll Center:
F - stock
R - Lower (up), Upper (inside middle)
I was thinking about increasing the rear toe and/or tightening the rear diff. What do you think?
Thanks for your help. I think the car is very close and it is a major improvement. A little more rear traction and get the clutch right and the car will be excellent.
Thanks again,
jag