Pyramid

In Hong Kong? Both Harmony and Wing Jet model are the biggest serpent dealer in Hong Kong... of course without counting World Model as the Asia distributor which you can go direct if don't mine paying retail.. What you are looking for is already widely available..

B4

iTrader: (1)

Pyramid,

Would you be so kind as to post the URL for Wing Jet Model.

Simon

buboy28

ok thanks will try wing jet model already asked world model but they have minimum order requirement for first time customers and a little bit expensive if i will add it all up

Pyramid

I do not recall they have one.. try hongkong threads, maybe someone could help you out with their phone numbers. I believe they dont do emails either.

B4

iTrader: (1)

OK

gfd2726

Hi guys,

I am planning on upgrading my stock composite shocks to aluminium shocks. Can anyone tell me what's the best shock/spring for this car and what company make them? Thank you!

Car Breaker

iTrader: (10)

I think the only choice for you is the products from Serepent unless you can find the one from East.
it will be better to use one from Serpent.

fulcrum2

Hi!

I´ve just converted my 710 to the new team chassis. After the assembly I´ve recognized a slight front/back wobble when the chassis sits on the Hudy board w/o wheels. I´ve released the radio deck and the front and rear suspension and it turned out that the radio deck bents the alu chassis a little bit. When the radio deck is loosened, the chassis sits flat on th Hudy board.
Is there someting I can do about it, or is it nothing I need to be concerned about?


Many thanks in advance!

_cyclops_

What type of X-brace are you using.. i heard the plastic and the alu differ in size... so the chassis will bend if one of both is smaller...

Pyramid

Even if you got it straight when brand new, it will still tweak/wobble between front and back after, let's say, 1 hour of use. NOT between right and left! which is not a good sign.

They way you screw down both top deck and all the bulkheads (serpent called it bearing blocks) also effect how straight your chassis will be when they are new.

Some also tought the way the starter box design will bent the chassis on use.

It happens to all other brand car using aluminum chassis.

_cyclops_

How do you assemble the car for the most strait chassis then?

And how to notice if the chassis is not strait anymore?

Pyramid

First of all, the brand new chassis is not always dead flat when you put on top of glass. Slight variations occur in between production process. But after things being put together, it would tend to straight up to the point of the other construction position. I found the most important is when you bold on those 4 upperdeck screws... bolting on while they are on top of flat glass is prefferable. Moreover, try to hold down the front and rear end of the car (by pushing its shock tower perhaps) would help to make sure everyting is on its flat/prefferable position when the top deck being mounted. Things like, instaled the bulhead first then the shock tower before placing the upperdeck would helps either. All things we screws in will tend to move right ways as we always turns the screws clockwise.. so things like holding the parts and giving the force to the other end (counter clockwise) have become common sense to me.

... but at the end about the chassis, as I mentioned before.. after you use it for a little while, it will not dead flat anymore when being place on top of flat glass/mirror again. It will still have tendecy to bent in between front and rear part (beside the bending generated buy worn chassis). Funny thing is, without having to have the L carbon stiffener brace (where the belt tensioner are) 'fully installed', it tend to bent less.

This matters become bit worst on more annoying on EP correct Daniz24? (I'm sure you are reading this threads also )

gfd2726

Thank you. Do you know which online stores (that has the best price) carry them? Thank you.

_cyclops_

Will the improper mounting of the upper deck (and other things) result in tweak in the chassis?

markp27

Take a look at section 4.3 in the FAQ - Julius describes a better front and rear assembly method there - including the correct sequence of tightening the screws.

Cheers, MArk.