Ben.C

Mine wallbles too....I think its got to due to bearing tolerences of the balls.In RC usually lower tolerence level like abec3 or 5 are used. To get rid of the wallble...Try to get your hands on abec 7 bearing....

Sushi Man

Hey Guys 2 questions

-DOES ANY OTHER COMPNIES BALL DIFF SET WORK FOR THIS TAMIYA BALL DIFFS??? (THRUST BEARING, SCREWS!)

-Why does the MS upgrade kit even bother to have the 4 side POSTS?!??? i mean the top deck/rear bulkhead dont even use them... LOL???

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

Dude, chill on the capitals. Yokomo make diff plates that can fit the 415 diff, a lot of bearing manufacturers make diff balls for the Tamiya, as well as other brands, diff. Don't think there are any third part diff screw or thrust bearing makers.You mean the inch or so tall posts? They are useful if you don't want chassis flex (like for carpet racing).

buboy28

try Tamiya USA(America) they might be able to help you out

V12

iTrader: (1)

HPI thrust bearing also is working on Tamiya diffs. That´s what I use now.

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

I don't see whats wrong with the Tamiya diff screws ? I have only ever ran low turns Modified's in my 415 and only a Tamiya thrust bearing and I have yet to have a problem. I have replaced the pulley a few times and I have replaced the outdrives a few times but they were not trashed, just worn. I do use Acer ceramic diff balls and Yokomo diff plates in my diff. I do have a packet of thrust bearings spare but I still run the thrust bearing that came with my car.

If your junking the diff you must be doing something wrong....

Roberto Falcon

iTrader: (18)

Hey guys im selling my MS .. used once... http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=99087

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

I agree......I ran my 415's all summer at an outdoor track that was about 175ft x 100ft if not bigger using 8,9, and 10Ts. Never had a diff go bad

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys & gals, i have a set-up question. Every thing on my car is box stock except that the front shocks are moved in 1 hole on the shock tower and i have a Direct centre pulley with 1*of neg camber all around. The problem i am having is that turn-in is good, in the middle is good but going out of a corner is not so good, it just wants to snap away luckily it grips right back but it is a bit unsettling (running on high grip and fast carpet tracks using CS22 tyres) . How would i get rid of this problem, would i have to raise the rear front suspension block or raise the rear rear block .

Thanks, Charles

TRF415boy

Are you using the yellow springs ? If so then that's one thing to change, well too soft for carpet.

Juan Aveytia

Try using tamiya whites up front with a blue sway bar. In the rear use tamiya blues and no sway bar. If you can mix your tires, run 27's in front and glue the side walls on the 27's. Keep the 22's on the rear, but don't glue them. This set-up should help alot.

Ill Factor

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys posting this question for a friend who has an MSX Refine on the way. What fron arms does it use, standard or LW?

Thanks in advance. Also any spare he should get right away would be helpful.

TRF415boy

LW, only the original 415 comes with the standard suspension.

GroffBall

iTrader: (10)

LW arms is what it uses and I would get spares of those they come one front and one back to a set. Also get knuckles, and castor blocks. I'm not sure if the R2 comes with aluminum carriers or not if not get some of those too.

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

Sorry i forgot to say i am using Xray light blue springs all round and no sway/roll bars as this is what i changed before a ran the car

Charles