3LikesTamiya TRF415
11-04-2005, 03:42 PM
ft blocks
Originally Posted by TryHard
0°, I think
why is it if I make the ft block of the ft arms say A d blocks it has less steering as to A A... cause and effect .... and the outer ball shim of the rear hub ...adding and removing is it a more or less camber gain ? thanksKevin 
11-04-2005, 05:16 PM
Originally Posted by Customworksking
tryhard : why is it if I make the ft block of the ft arms say A d blocks it has less steering as to A A... cause and effect .... and the outer ball shim of the rear hub ...adding and removing is it a more or less camber gain ? thanksKevin
why is it if I make the ft block of the ft arms say A d blocks it has less steering as to A A... cause and effect .... and the outer ball shim of the rear hub ...adding and removing is it a more or less camber gain ? thanksKevin I can't entirely explain why it does it (simply, I don't know), but I think it's due to a numebr of things.
a) Lengthening the front wheelbase...
b)... and hence putting more weight rearward
c) it affects how the arms work under compression (like anti-squat and kick-up)
d) it widens the car at the front (the 415 seems to like the narrower front track, appears to yield better grip on the front)
All these would add up to take away front end. Doing the reverse (ie D/A) does the opposite, as the opposite is true.... however this isn't a be all and end all statement... everything affects everything else, and needs to be tuned to suit the track and conditions. It maybe that sometimes A-A is better, and othertimes that C-A is better...
I do know that a lot of drivers find that running the inboard toe seems to give better mid-corner steering. Personally, outdoors I always like to start with A-A, or A-XA. Indoors I go with C-A.
The outer shim affects two things
1) Camber change
2) Roll Centre
From what I recall from what some other drivers said (I've never experimented with it.... damm another thing to add to the "to try" list
), is that the roll centre adjustment is the more important part to consider ...as long as the camber change isn't excessive (eg over 2.5deg over the wheel travel)Adjusting the RC here works the opposite way to the inboard link, ie putting a shim underneath raises the RC.
From how I understand it, camber change is more affected by the length of the link, rather than it's height. I.E a shorter/longer link will have more affect than a lower/higher one.... at least in the mm's we use to change the height.
Now undoubtably, someone with far better knowledge of this might be able to expand on these better, so please, chip in guys (Martin especially
)... I could be completely wrong.... then again, give it a year, and I maybe able too myself (stuff in the pipeline 
)HiH
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 11-04-2005 at 05:28 PM.
11-05-2005, 02:43 AM
Tech Rookie
here is my 415
11-05-2005, 10:41 AM
ad aa ac
Originally Posted by TryHard
I assume when you say A-D you mean A on the front, and D onthe rear? ie, inboard Toe-in.
I can't entirely explain why it does it (simply, I don't know), but I think it's due to a numebr of things.
a) Lengthening the front wheelbase...
b)... and hence putting more weight rearward
c) it affects how the arms work under compression (like anti-squat and kick-up)
d) it widens the car at the front (the 415 seems to like the narrower front track, appears to yield better grip on the front)
All these would add up to take away front end. Doing the reverse (ie D/A) does the opposite, as the opposite is true.... however this isn't a be all and end all statement... everything affects everything else, and needs to be tuned to suit the track and conditions. It maybe that sometimes A-A is better, and othertimes that C-A is better...
I do know that a lot of drivers find that running the inboard toe seems to give better mid-corner steering. Personally, outdoors I always like to start with A-A, or A-XA. Indoors I go with C-A.
The outer shim affects two things
1) Camber change
2) Roll Centre
From what I recall from what some other drivers said (I've never experimented with it.... damm another thing to add to the "to try" list), is that the roll centre adjustment is the more important part to consider ...as long as the camber change isn't excessive (eg over 2.5deg over the wheel travel)
Adjusting the RC here works the opposite way to the inboard link, ie putting a shim underneath raises the RC.
From how I understand it, camber change is more affected by the length of the link, rather than it's height. I.E a shorter/longer link will have more affect than a lower/higher one.... at least in the mm's we use to change the height.
Now undoubtably, someone with far better knowledge of this might be able to expand on these better, so please, chip in guys (Martin especially )... I could be completely wrong.... then again, give it a year, and I maybe able too myself (stuff in the pipeline )
HiH
Ed
I can't entirely explain why it does it (simply, I don't know), but I think it's due to a numebr of things.
a) Lengthening the front wheelbase...
b)... and hence putting more weight rearward
c) it affects how the arms work under compression (like anti-squat and kick-up)
d) it widens the car at the front (the 415 seems to like the narrower front track, appears to yield better grip on the front)
All these would add up to take away front end. Doing the reverse (ie D/A) does the opposite, as the opposite is true.... however this isn't a be all and end all statement... everything affects everything else, and needs to be tuned to suit the track and conditions. It maybe that sometimes A-A is better, and othertimes that C-A is better...
I do know that a lot of drivers find that running the inboard toe seems to give better mid-corner steering. Personally, outdoors I always like to start with A-A, or A-XA. Indoors I go with C-A.
The outer shim affects two things
1) Camber change
2) Roll Centre
From what I recall from what some other drivers said (I've never experimented with it.... damm another thing to add to the "to try" list
), is that the roll centre adjustment is the more important part to consider ...as long as the camber change isn't excessive (eg over 2.5deg over the wheel travel)Adjusting the RC here works the opposite way to the inboard link, ie putting a shim underneath raises the RC.
From how I understand it, camber change is more affected by the length of the link, rather than it's height. I.E a shorter/longer link will have more affect than a lower/higher one.... at least in the mm's we use to change the height.
Now undoubtably, someone with far better knowledge of this might be able to expand on these better, so please, chip in guys (Martin especially
)... I could be completely wrong.... then again, give it a year, and I maybe able too myself (stuff in the pipeline )HiH
Ed
anyway true if u want more ft traction/steering AA works I guess at the same time it takes away the rear traction or some of it..I got a list of things to try for 19turn rubber "CS27" w/spool ...the freer the better/faster less toe ect...we wil see 2mar......
11-06-2005, 12:01 PM
Hey, can anyone tell me if the standard Tamiya servo-saver that comes with the 415 is any good?
11-06-2005, 12:05 PM
Originally Posted by bender
Hey, can anyone tell me if the standard Tamiya servo-saver that comes with the 415 is any good?
11-06-2005, 12:12 PM
Tech Fanatic
Does anyone run with double diffs indoor with rubber tires on carpet? Just wondering what your shock oils were as a starting point.
11-06-2005, 12:51 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Wondering if anybody has a 2.5mm lower deck they would be willing to sell...if so please PM me.
11-06-2005, 01:32 PM
Tech Master
All,
Up for grabs is a 415msx. This baby is loaded! I added 0 degree alum hubs, Ti turn buckles, 2 complete sets of springs and lots of extra parts. I need to sell SOON, have to finish my basement/bar before the superbowl. comes will 2 spools, one way, yok ball diff, locked center shaft, and center one way.
Price, $550 US. PM me if you are interested....
Up for grabs is a 415msx. This baby is loaded! I added 0 degree alum hubs, Ti turn buckles, 2 complete sets of springs and lots of extra parts. I need to sell SOON, have to finish my basement/bar before the superbowl. comes will 2 spools, one way, yok ball diff, locked center shaft, and center one way.
Price, $550 US. PM me if you are interested....
11-06-2005, 01:34 PM
Tech Master
Here is a pic...........
11-06-2005, 02:07 PM
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
Does anyone run with double diffs indoor with rubber tires on carpet? Just wondering what your shock oils were as a starting point.
When I ran a diff up front, I just kept the oils the same as for a spool, so either 50/50 or 60/60 (3 hole pistons)
HiH
Ed
11-06-2005, 02:09 PM
Originally Posted by Static_racing
All,
Up for grabs is a 415msx. This baby is loaded! I added 0 degree alum hubs, Ti turn buckles, 2 complete sets of springs and lots of extra parts. I need to sell SOON, have to finish my basement/bar before the superbowl. comes will 2 spools, one way, yok ball diff, locked center shaft, and center one way.
Price, $550 US. PM me if you are interested....
Up for grabs is a 415msx. This baby is loaded! I added 0 degree alum hubs, Ti turn buckles, 2 complete sets of springs and lots of extra parts. I need to sell SOON, have to finish my basement/bar before the superbowl. comes will 2 spools, one way, yok ball diff, locked center shaft, and center one way.
Price, $550 US. PM me if you are interested....
Keith
11-06-2005, 02:17 PM
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by TryHard
Hey Rick,
When I ran a diff up front, I just kept the oils the same as for a spool, so either 50/50 or 60/60 (3 hole pistons)
HiH
Ed
When I ran a diff up front, I just kept the oils the same as for a spool, so either 50/50 or 60/60 (3 hole pistons)
HiH
Ed
Thanks for that, just getting my car ready for carpet wars, only doing the 2 day meeting but going to have lots more practice this year as last year. I had never ran my MS, never used a stock motor before and still made the stock A
.Do you have any preferance for suspension indoor on rubbers?
11-07-2005, 04:39 AM
Tech Fanatic
TIR are now producing there worlds CVD's for the 415.
11-07-2005, 04:53 AM
Originally Posted by Rick Draper
TIR are now producing there worlds CVD's for the 415.
