Jack2

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys just wondering if you could help. On the tamiya web site I found this:
TRF 415 Ball Diff
Tamiya America is fully aware that many of our U.S. customers are racing on carpet. As we have found it is preffered to have a ball diff in the front for best performance. At this time Tamiya does not offer a front diff as both the Asian and European markets have no need. This is due to the fact that racers in those markets run mostly on sweeping high speed flowing tracks, hence the dominant choice of one-way cars.

Interim solution
In the interim, Tamiya America recommends the following Yokomo parts to directly fit a ball diff on your 415.
YOK-ZS-501 complete diff half's
YOK-ZC-507 diff thrust bearing set
YOK-ZS-508 diff adjusting kit
The stock Tamiya 415 diff rings will work with these parts as well as the stock rear pulley. Note: depending on what suspension arm system you use it may be necessary to use either 42mm or 46mm universal swing shafts. This is a interim solution and we hope you find it useful. For you TCS racers out there, please note that this modification is not TCS lega


If I run the MS version what swing shafts will I need ?? 42mm or 46mm

V12

iTrader: (1)

Should be 46mm as itīs with your car. 42mm for the old suspension.

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

cheers

V12

iTrader: (1)

Just to let you guys know.
Marc Rheinard again won the German Indoor Touring Car Championship today driving a TRF 415 from TQ position.
This race was on rubber tires as usual I think CS27 handout this time.
Beside the usual German drivers also Jilles Groskamp from the NL was driving there but from what I heard nobody could follow Marc there.
Should have been a good practice for him also for the LRP Touring Masters next week.

Burlap

iTrader: (6)

Silly newbie question, but where and how do you adjust anti-squat on a 415?

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

Anti-squat is the angle that the hingepins are relative to the chassis (on rear only) so you basically put spacers under the front of the rear set of toeblocks. I've put 1mm under mine and it was quite good, I also put 1mm kickup on the front too for the tight BRCCC layout.

koabich

Use some kit supplied aluminum shims under the suspension mounts.

JRRobiso

Does anyone have a pix of the new lightweight spool by SpeedTech? Also wanting to know if it creates the same chattering sound the first spool use to make when steering? Thanks in advance for any reply.

Jun R.

Nexus

iTrader: (42)

the 46mm on your MS should be fine...

checkout my site if you need any building reference.

http://home.comcast.net/~anthony.isl...frontdiff.html

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maxp....wish i could help you but i never run spools.

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V2...nice....any pics or links to the race results?

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Speedtech's new LW spool has less chatter than the original. When you install the universals, make sure they are installed 90 degrees from each other going into the outdrives. The spool should hold up well for 19T. I tested with a 7T and half a run with a 6.

SpeedTech

iTrader: (5)

Hi Jun,

Our new spool help reduce some of the chattering as rtypec posted, however, the chatter actually from the universal design, and is also just a part of running the spool! There is NO 100% solution to get rid of the chatter, it's just a part of running the spool, but there are some solutions to help reduce the amount of chatter:

There are resistance from several areas: From the universal itself when it is put at an angle (i.e. when turning) and also from the tire and the ground (the traction it generate, especially when it turns and the force it takes to change the direction of the car at speeds)

Traditional universal design have the universal bone go into the axle, so a smaller radius part is trying to turn a larger radius part. In an one-way or a diff, is fine, but as soon as there are more resistance, the bone simply do not have enough leverage and strength to turn the axle.

The MIP design works best with a spool because the bone part is larger radius than the axle it goes over. So for a larger radius part to turn a smaller radius part inside works wonders to help reduce the chatter as the MIP design overcomes the resistance from the traditional universal design.

For the TRF415, I think Corally uses similar axle size (they also use 5x9mm bearings) and you'll just have to find MIP bones that are around the same length as I believe all MIP universals for different manufactures all uses the same universal couplers.

By the way, the Speed Tech R/C new LW TRF415 spools are back in stock

Steve Wang

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

Yeh... I had that same "chatter" problem with my Evo IV and it made the spool basically useless. If anyone can source a website with a FULL solution for this mess, then I'd love it if it could be posted up on the site so we could all get our stuff from there.

TRF415boy

What is it you call wheel hop ? If it is chatter, then MIP driveshafts (notice i don't write CVD's because they aren't) won't be of any help. However, the only MIP driveshafts that fits on the "old" suspension are those off the Corally Assassin and RDX. For the LW suspension, Pro4 driveshafts will go in, but will require a bit of shimming.

F. Alonso

iTrader: (10)

so to stop the chatter with the LW suspension, we just need some pro4 driveshafts and it'll fit perfectly and everything?

TRF415boy

It will not stop the chatter, no driveshaft on the market will, because the chatter is caused only by the design of the driveshafts that are available on the market, using a cross joint.

The reason why there is chatter with a spool is only because the actual driveshafts are not constant velocity (i know MIP calls theirs CVD's, but they aren't), so when you steer and the spool is turning at a constant velocity, the speed of the wheels will vary around a speed that is that off the spool, but it will not be constant.