3LikesTamiya TRF415
12-29-2004, 09:29 PM
#6016
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
I'm missing the A1 part of the differential. The plastic piece that the diff nut sets into. Is that part hiding somewhere on a parts tree, or was it suppose to be in the same bag as the differential?
I'm missing the A1 part of the differential. The plastic piece that the diff nut sets into. Is that part hiding somewhere on a parts tree, or was it suppose to be in the same bag as the differential?
That one, however, is right with the front bumper/body posts.
12-29-2004, 09:29 PM
#6017
Originally posted by forty6
It's in the bumper holder/body post parts tree if I am not mistaken.
It's in the bumper holder/body post parts tree if I am not mistaken.
12-30-2004, 03:02 AM
#6019
Originally posted by Arun
My laps were quicker overall after the change, and my best lap improved by two tenths.
Rear toe-1.5 degrees (al. 1deg upright with 1C-1D blocks)
My front roll centers are...well...interesting.
I have a lowered ballstud in the upper-outer position (foam tire clearance). I have a 1mm shim under the upper-inner ballstud.
On the bottom, I have flipped the roll center blocks, ground the area where the screw normally protrudes flat as I described above, and placed 4mm of shims underneath. This, in effect, lowers the pivot point by 1mm, giving the car more steering. My front-rear block is a 1A (which, when flipped, becomes a bridge), and my front-front block is a 1B.
This 1A-1B front combo also gives .5deg of in-board toe out, helping the car react quicker into and out of a corner.
This picture should clear up any confusion.
My laps were quicker overall after the change, and my best lap improved by two tenths.
Rear toe-1.5 degrees (al. 1deg upright with 1C-1D blocks)
My front roll centers are...well...interesting.
I have a lowered ballstud in the upper-outer position (foam tire clearance). I have a 1mm shim under the upper-inner ballstud.
On the bottom, I have flipped the roll center blocks, ground the area where the screw normally protrudes flat as I described above, and placed 4mm of shims underneath. This, in effect, lowers the pivot point by 1mm, giving the car more steering. My front-rear block is a 1A (which, when flipped, becomes a bridge), and my front-front block is a 1B.
This 1A-1B front combo also gives .5deg of in-board toe out, helping the car react quicker into and out of a corner.
This picture should clear up any confusion.
Just a few questions for you though.
1) what screw length are you using to hold the blocks in?
2) have you had any problems with blocks bending when set like this? I had a couple of blocks bend big time on the rear when running 1mm shims underneath, hence why i invested in a set of Evo4 blocks for such situations.
3) also whoose diff pulley is that mounted on your car??
Regards
Ed
12-30-2004, 03:06 AM
#6020
Originally posted by Jack Smash
I've been thinking about getting a 415 but thought the setup sheet could be cleaned up a bit for us non-japanese speaking drivers.
Check it out.
http://209.151.201.222/smash/trf415lw.pdf
I've been thinking about getting a 415 but thought the setup sheet could be cleaned up a bit for us non-japanese speaking drivers.
Check it out.
http://209.151.201.222/smash/trf415lw.pdf
And on that point, can i just mention again, if anyone has a setup they want to be posted, I'm more than happy to place them onto my site. Just send me the details of the setup (or an image of it), and I'll put it up.
Regards
Ed
12-30-2004, 10:08 AM
#6021
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
I'm missing the A1 part of the differential. The plastic piece that the diff nut sets into. Is that part hiding somewhere on a parts tree, or was it suppose to be in the same bag as the differential?
I'm missing the A1 part of the differential. The plastic piece that the diff nut sets into. Is that part hiding somewhere on a parts tree, or was it suppose to be in the same bag as the differential?
12-30-2004, 10:26 AM
#6022
Originally posted by BlackKat
Thanks, I noticed that but was wondering what the change did in the car's handling?
Thanks, I noticed that but was wondering what the change did in the car's handling?
12-30-2004, 11:07 AM
#6024
Tech Fanatic
So what servo is everyone running. Time to upgrade. Randy it looks like yours is the 9550. Do you know the specs, i cant seem to find anything on Futaba.
12-30-2004, 11:09 AM
#6025
Originally posted by tcmerf
So what servo is everyone running. Time to upgrade. Randy it looks like yours is the 9550. Do you know the specs, i cant seem to find anything on Futaba.
So what servo is everyone running. Time to upgrade. Randy it looks like yours is the 9550. Do you know the specs, i cant seem to find anything on Futaba.
12-30-2004, 11:24 AM
#6026
Originally posted by Jack Smash
I've been thinking about getting a 415 but thought the setup sheet could be cleaned up a bit for us non-japanese speaking drivers.
Check it out.
http://209.151.201.222/smash/trf415lw.pdf
I've been thinking about getting a 415 but thought the setup sheet could be cleaned up a bit for us non-japanese speaking drivers.
Check it out.
http://209.151.201.222/smash/trf415lw.pdf
(i decided to keep the japanese on there, just in case Tamiya Japan wanted to use it)
12-30-2004, 01:32 PM
#6029
tcmurf, try this: http://www.futabarc.com
Randy's specs are close, .11sec/83oz It's a great servo. I'm using one, to get more space for rest of electronics, but once I switched to KO302 and VFS-1, now I have about 1/2" gap infront of the motor
If space isn't an issue, 9451 is better servo though. BTW.. GreatPlanes (sole distributor for Futaba) has been having sale on 9550 to dealers at $53.00 
Randy, if you used the kit diff plastic nut holder, you might have stripped it. Use the part rtypec recommended, or quick cheap fix is take a little piece of paper, lay it flat on the top of the nutholder, then put the nut in, so paper is jammed inbetween nut and the nutholder. That should fix it permanently. The soft plastic gives out easy, had same problem on my diff. After 2 rebuilds, it's still working great.
Randy's specs are close, .11sec/83oz It's a great servo. I'm using one, to get more space for rest of electronics, but once I switched to KO302 and VFS-1, now I have about 1/2" gap infront of the motor
If space isn't an issue, 9451 is better servo though. BTW.. GreatPlanes (sole distributor for Futaba) has been having sale on 9550 to dealers at $53.00 Randy, if you used the kit diff plastic nut holder, you might have stripped it. Use the part rtypec recommended, or quick cheap fix is take a little piece of paper, lay it flat on the top of the nutholder, then put the nut in, so paper is jammed inbetween nut and the nutholder. That should fix it permanently. The soft plastic gives out easy, had same problem on my diff. After 2 rebuilds, it's still working great.
Last edited by razzo; 12-30-2004 at 01:40 PM.