Tamiya TRF415
#3901
sorry don't know what difuser used, but i'm sure he will post soon.
#3902
Surikarns 2004 Reedy Race setup is in the October issue of RC Car Action...
As for the Yokomo Diff.. I thought it was the Rear Diff that you used as it was centered in the yokomo car and the front was off set... Therefore... to work in the front of the 415.. you'd need to use the centered diff....
As for the Yokomo Diff.. I thought it was the Rear Diff that you used as it was centered in the yokomo car and the front was off set... Therefore... to work in the front of the 415.. you'd need to use the centered diff....
#3903
Originally posted by ritchie
these parts are from the mr4tc on road car and mr4bc off road car
heres your parts numbers
ZS-501 DIFF HALVES you will get two sets one for the front and one for the rear. you will use the FRONT parts, these will have the equal spacing for the outer bearings.
ZS-506 DIFF RINGS,
ZS-507 THRUST BALLS AND WASHERS
ZC-507T if you want carbide balls
ZS-508 DIFF SCREW AND LOCK NUT.
cost.. less then $20.00 u.s. (little more with carbide balls)
these parts are from the mr4tc on road car and mr4bc off road car
heres your parts numbers
ZS-501 DIFF HALVES you will get two sets one for the front and one for the rear. you will use the FRONT parts, these will have the equal spacing for the outer bearings.
ZS-506 DIFF RINGS,
ZS-507 THRUST BALLS AND WASHERS
ZC-507T if you want carbide balls
ZS-508 DIFF SCREW AND LOCK NUT.
cost.. less then $20.00 u.s. (little more with carbide balls)
#3904
Originally posted by KilRuf
Surikarns 2004 Reedy Race setup is in the October issue of RC Car Action...
As for the Yokomo Diff.. I thought it was the Rear Diff that you used as it was centered in the yokomo car and the front was off set... Therefore... to work in the front of the 415.. you'd need to use the centered diff....
Surikarns 2004 Reedy Race setup is in the October issue of RC Car Action...
As for the Yokomo Diff.. I thought it was the Rear Diff that you used as it was centered in the yokomo car and the front was off set... Therefore... to work in the front of the 415.. you'd need to use the centered diff....
#3905
Originally posted by forty6
You need the rears. The fronts are off-set to one side. The rears are centered.
You need the rears. The fronts are off-set to one side. The rears are centered.
there are all in the same package so you will get what you need
#3907
Thanks for the help guys, I have located the parts that I need. Does the Reedy race still have the no oneway rule? If so what did surikarn use?
#3908
I'll have to find the mag and scan it in for ya tomorrow AMG. Not ALL the info is in there. But enough of it is there to get the car in the general direction. Of course you'll need to tune the rest to your track. Hmm hold on.. lemme go look real quick... okay, it was in the bathroom..
Camber -1° F/R
Toe in - F/ 3°in R
RideHeight 4.5mm F/R
Pivot ball mount on knuckle Inside Hole F/ - R
Shock oil 300wt F/R (Tamiya)
2 hole piston F/R
Yellow Shock Spring F/R
Camber link ball stud washers 2.5mm inner F/R
Shock mount (tower) Outside hole F/R
Shock mount (arms) Middle hole F/ Inner hole R
Camber link mount - F/ Middle hole on carrier R
Arm mounts 1A F / 1A-1B R
Swaybar Yellow F/R
Driveshafts Universal Steel F/ CV axles (aluminium)R
Outdrives Steel F/ Plastic R
Chassis posts removed F/R
Diffs Spool F/ Ball R
His gearing was 27t/102t with a V2 7x1 Peak
Thats most of the info besides the White Belts, belt guide, and body (which I don't think it's the Protoform Strat in the pic).
That was the basic info, hope this helps. Gotta figure out your own droop and all that. It's not posted in there.
Camber -1° F/R
Toe in - F/ 3°in R
RideHeight 4.5mm F/R
Pivot ball mount on knuckle Inside Hole F/ - R
Shock oil 300wt F/R (Tamiya)
2 hole piston F/R
Yellow Shock Spring F/R
Camber link ball stud washers 2.5mm inner F/R
Shock mount (tower) Outside hole F/R
Shock mount (arms) Middle hole F/ Inner hole R
Camber link mount - F/ Middle hole on carrier R
Arm mounts 1A F / 1A-1B R
Swaybar Yellow F/R
Driveshafts Universal Steel F/ CV axles (aluminium)R
Outdrives Steel F/ Plastic R
Chassis posts removed F/R
Diffs Spool F/ Ball R
His gearing was 27t/102t with a V2 7x1 Peak
Thats most of the info besides the White Belts, belt guide, and body (which I don't think it's the Protoform Strat in the pic).
That was the basic info, hope this helps. Gotta figure out your own droop and all that. It's not posted in there.
#3909
Reedy Race here has the "no oneway" rule. In the pics it looks like he had the SpeedtechRC spool. Which is what I run. It's very nice!! And well worth it!! I have one for my 415 and Yokomo SD.
#3910
Hi Guys,
Just a quick post, we should have some square products in stock tomorrow for the TRF415, website should be updated by tomorrow night
Steve Wang
p.s. thanks kilruf
Just a quick post, we should have some square products in stock tomorrow for the TRF415, website should be updated by tomorrow night
Steve Wang
p.s. thanks kilruf
#3911
Hi,
Is E4111499 - Speed Tech/E4P Tamiya TRF415 Locked Diff in essence a front differential for the 415?
Is E4111499 - Speed Tech/E4P Tamiya TRF415 Locked Diff in essence a front differential for the 415?
#3912
Guest
A fixed spool is nothing more than a ridged axle, not a differential.
#3913
thanks T-man
#3914
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by Hebiki
great tip! thanks.
great tip! thanks.
All I need now is a new B block, I think the bent one of mine is completly throwing out the rear suspension. I'm quite tempted to get a set of Evo4 Blocks, and retain the 415 ones if I decide I want to change the roll centre. Just one questionm though, is the evo4 E-block usable on the 415? I mean would it put the width out wider than 190mm (bear in mind I'm now using the 6mm wheel hexes, so pushing it close on the D rear block anyway). I guess you could just tune it with the std hexes and wheel spacers, and have the arms run as far out as possible.
Has anyone tried this?
Regards
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 09-21-2004 at 04:31 AM.
#3915
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
just been looking at that Reedy race setup, looks like he was running the car fairly soft, what with yellow springs and low wt oil in the shocks. I guess there wasn't that much grip then?
Any info or pictures to show what suspension block he was running on the front of the car (the rear I can figure out).
Thanks for the info anyway.
Regards
Ed
Any info or pictures to show what suspension block he was running on the front of the car (the rear I can figure out).
Thanks for the info anyway.
Regards
Ed