Tamiya TRF415
Ed or other...
Lookng for a little help.
I have been using your last carpet setup on thard site on msx other than ho rear blocks.
The car has been great for club racing super easy to drive and I have been on a tear of wins at my low/med grip club track.
However I attended an event today that had off the chart grip as a result of turnout of racers and mostly a foam event. Jet black driving groove. I struggled with traction rolling only on 180 degree turns. I was also slightly apparent on sweepers but I could drive around that.
I tried many things to resolve the problem and not one thing seemed to help. The only way to stop the traction roll was 15 clicks of positive throttle trim to stop weight transfer and then I tried a yellow sway bar w/o throttle trim and it induced understeer everywhere else but stopped the traction rolling.
Has anyone run a rubber car on super high grip something like you would experience at IIC or other major foam based tracks with paragon?
I ran out of time but I wanted to try much heavier shock oil front and rear.
Thanks
Jamie
Lookng for a little help.
I have been using your last carpet setup on thard site on msx other than ho rear blocks.
The car has been great for club racing super easy to drive and I have been on a tear of wins at my low/med grip club track.
However I attended an event today that had off the chart grip as a result of turnout of racers and mostly a foam event. Jet black driving groove. I struggled with traction rolling only on 180 degree turns. I was also slightly apparent on sweepers but I could drive around that.
I tried many things to resolve the problem and not one thing seemed to help. The only way to stop the traction roll was 15 clicks of positive throttle trim to stop weight transfer and then I tried a yellow sway bar w/o throttle trim and it induced understeer everywhere else but stopped the traction rolling.
Has anyone run a rubber car on super high grip something like you would experience at IIC or other major foam based tracks with paragon?
I ran out of time but I wanted to try much heavier shock oil front and rear.
Thanks
Jamie
Other than that, raise your roll centres, make the rear slide a little by reducing the rear toe and raising the roll centre at the rear more than the front.
Jamie or Ed
Which sheet on tHard did you use? I've been having exactly the same problem you started out with and our track is quite low grip right now. the back end on my msx likes to be in front of the car exitting (and some times entering) corners. I've done a lot to try to remedy the problem but just don't see the results.
Frankly, this car seems quite oversteer happy right now. even with no traction compound on the fronts and the rears practically soaked in it.
My msx has a direct center and diffs front and rear, running foams, 5-6mm ride hieght, with about 2-3mm upward travel (droop?)
FYI Ed. LOVE the site.
Which sheet on tHard did you use? I've been having exactly the same problem you started out with and our track is quite low grip right now. the back end on my msx likes to be in front of the car exitting (and some times entering) corners. I've done a lot to try to remedy the problem but just don't see the results.
Frankly, this car seems quite oversteer happy right now. even with no traction compound on the fronts and the rears practically soaked in it.
My msx has a direct center and diffs front and rear, running foams, 5-6mm ride hieght, with about 2-3mm upward travel (droop?)
FYI Ed. LOVE the site.
My opinion is that your problem isn't setup related but something wrong with the car. If it breaks loose off power and on power randomly, I'd say you have a bent hinge pin, or toe block or something like that.(wheel axles if you're using the alloy ones that come with the MRE).
With foam tyres (I believe you said that's what you use) I'd say if you have rear grip issue that you need to stiffen the car up, maybe use two top decks or find yourself a 4mm chassis, it makes a huge difference.
Guys, what are youre thoughts on taking off the servo-saver on the MSX MRE and switching to a direct horn?
It is used on road so it does cop a bit of a bashing but after a shunt last night the servo saver has been constantly slipping (even slow driving) and im thinking of just switching it to direct. Have tightened the saver right up also. Still not much help...
Help appreciated,
-Cheers
It is used on road so it does cop a bit of a bashing but after a shunt last night the servo saver has been constantly slipping (even slow driving) and im thinking of just switching it to direct. Have tightened the saver right up also. Still not much help...
Help appreciated,
-Cheers
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Guys, what are youre thoughts on taking off the servo-saver on the MSX MRE and switching to a direct horn?
It is used on road so it does cop a bit of a bashing but after a shunt last night the servo saver has been constantly slipping (even slow driving) and im thinking of just switching it to direct. Have tightened the saver right up also. Still not much help...
Help appreciated,
-Cheers
It is used on road so it does cop a bit of a bashing but after a shunt last night the servo saver has been constantly slipping (even slow driving) and im thinking of just switching it to direct. Have tightened the saver right up also. Still not much help...
Help appreciated,
-Cheers
I do use a plastic one though (it's a futaba X horn cut down), so it has a bit more give anyway, and will snap in a major impact.
Tried a saver on my 416 recently, didn't like it so went back to the solid horn. My main issue was getting the setting to center to the same position consistenly... switched back to the solid, no issue
HiH
Ed
Interesting... I did examine the springs and the saver (tamiya) had worn down. In meantime have replaced it, problem now is that when im driving the car still seems to track left/right in a certain direction and its never holding a straight line, no matter how many adjustments I do.
Servo seems fine and the turnbuckles are all at the right lengths (29mm) but full lock in either direction isnt the same! When im setting it up full lock in either direction is impossible to achieve I have no idea why this is the case but is really getting frustrating. Current setup is a TRF415 MSX MRE with GTB/5.5r and controlled via a DX3.0/SR3000... for road use
Servo seems fine and the turnbuckles are all at the right lengths (29mm) but full lock in either direction isnt the same! When im setting it up full lock in either direction is impossible to achieve I have no idea why this is the case but is really getting frustrating. Current setup is a TRF415 MSX MRE with GTB/5.5r and controlled via a DX3.0/SR3000... for road use
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Is anyone running a diff, not a spool or one-way, on their car on asphalt? I just got a 415MSX with a spool and I don't like it. I will try it a couple of more times to try to get use to it. I'm just use to running a diff. All the setups I have found they are using a spool on asphalt.
Is anyone running a diff, not a spool or one-way, on their car on asphalt? I just got a 415MSX with a spool and I don't like it. I will try it a couple of more times to try to get use to it. I'm just use to running a diff. All the setups I have found they are using a spool on asphalt.
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
I looking to buy thr front diff from Tamiya. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53921
What gear do I need to go with it? Part number if you know it.
What gear do I need to go with it? Part number if you know it.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I looking to buy thr front diff from Tamiya. http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53921
What gear do I need to go with it? Part number if you know it.
What gear do I need to go with it? Part number if you know it.
If you have an MSX MRE, MSXX, or MSXX MRE, you'll need the white 36t pulley, part# TAM53935.
HiH
Ed
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Thanks TryHard, your check is in the mail.
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Pulling my old 415 MSX/MRE/DMC out of mothballs and going to give it a run again. Be good to get back to AWD RC car, instead of FWD wheelspin
My chassis started off as a 415 MSX, then added the MRE bottom deck and steering, 415 MRE heatsink plate and Evo V arms. It is a real mixture of a chassis.
My chassis started off as a 415 MSX, then added the MRE bottom deck and steering, 415 MRE heatsink plate and Evo V arms. It is a real mixture of a chassis.
Is anyone running a diff, not a spool or one-way, on their car on asphalt? I just got a 415MSX with a spool and I don't like it. I will try it a couple of more times to try to get use to it. I'm just use to running a diff. All the setups I have found they are using a spool on asphalt.
I had a diff on my ta05ms, just did't feel right after all. the car is understeering a lot with wheel spin lose traction. the turn in respond is also bad with a diff. stick with one way all the way
Guys, what are youre thoughts on taking off the servo-saver on the MSX MRE and switching to a direct horn?
It is used on road so it does cop a bit of a bashing but after a shunt last night the servo saver has been constantly slipping (even slow driving) and im thinking of just switching it to direct. Have tightened the saver right up also. Still not much help...
Help appreciated,
-Cheers
It is used on road so it does cop a bit of a bashing but after a shunt last night the servo saver has been constantly slipping (even slow driving) and im thinking of just switching it to direct. Have tightened the saver right up also. Still not much help...
Help appreciated,
-Cheers
It centers better in case of the servo saver don't center it very good after an impact.
I still prefer a saver, find the tightest one you can find if fit.