pug 205 gti

thanks stein

ive been to rc champ but there wasnt a page with prices for the kits?

how does the car stand up to the odd knock bump?
im no marc rheinard but im not a demolition man either

i know this is a gritty question but if you bought a mre ltd edition and didnt break the seal would it be worth much in years to come??

Stein Tumert

You need to email them (Mr. Masa will usually reply), there is an email link there. Ask for what you are interested, price, availability and shipping cost to your location...

Stein Tumert

It stands up quite well to some punishment...but the original alu wheel axles will not take too much punishment so you will replace them with the steel ones from the MSX fairly soon. Except for that I have not broken anything, except for replacement of belts and BBs from normal wear...

Stein Tumert

No idea...the seal is broken on my 2 kits

Maybe someone else can give an idea on the value of old unopened Tamiya kits...

junn

iTrader: (5)

I bought an MRE, it cost me $449. RCmodel.hk are still specialling them off, they were $529 I think. Goes like a cut cat with so much steering but still trying to sort out the loose rear.

By the way, if you get one make sure you check the top of the springs for the little dot of blue or yellow, I didnt know the springs were "covert". I had the spring tension all mixed up, blue on left rear and yellow on right rear, made for some interesting handling.

TRF415boy

a couple mistakes by Ed there though: MS had steel screws and the belt stabiliser (that were an option on the original 415). It was also provided with a complete set of suspension blocks and anti roll bars, whereas all the other kits had no spare blocks or roll bars at all. 4mm wheel hexes on the std 415 and the MS.

MSX had different shock too, the limited edition with blue treaded caps and brown fluorine coated bodies + blue alloy spring tensioner (as opposed to the full blue shocks with plastic spring tensioner off the MS). it also introduced the adjustable roll bar links and a slightly different steering plate (although only cosmetics as the geometry was the same) and had the Ti coated hinge pins and 5mm wheel hexes.

TRF415boy

I will answer your question the most honestly I can. If you're looking for a tough car, easy to drive while being consistent for club racing on carpet, then the original TRF 415 is the car you're looking for. It may not have the easy access diffs and all that, but look at the DHI cup's pictures, that's the car Victor Wilck used, even though it's been out for nearly 3 years now...

MSX forget it for carpet, it took me an awful lot of time and mods to get it to work, maybe the MRE is better but I'm not so sure, I haven't got one.

Eirik

Marc finished second with the original 415 at the DHI as well

Not many have found a good setup for the MSX yet, I am still working on it

pug 205 gti

oh that doesnt sound to good.key factors which trf415boy has pointed out is abit of an upset firstly i dont want to have to struggle with the diffs because our racing is abit rushed in between heats.
eririk it may seem im looking into buying the wrong car for my needs as i really need a quickish carpet car for rubber tyres
i hate to mention the word on here but the xray t2 007 may be more suitable
or am i missing something here???

blakeyx

If you're racing carpet with rubber tyres, I would go for the 415 MSX MRE. I have been using the car for 2 weeks myself and it is just sooo easy to drive, and fast. I left my car full kit, except for the following changes: front diff 3 hole pistons in the shocks, 60 W oil all round, and the new short wishbones. I also inclined the front shocks by one. This is run in super stock on a medium grip track with LRP v tech 24 tyres. I hope you find this of some help.

TRF415boy

Well if you're willing to do some work here's my setup, it has a lot of stuff changed to the car but it's awesome. This is the setup I qualifed 3rd with in the last two rounds of carpet wars.

One thing I noticed is that the rear tyres wear out a lot faster than the front tyres, this is why the car's understeering with new tyres, and becomes a lot harder to drive as the tyres wear. That's why I raised the rear RC quite a lot, you might want to try it, the car's quite good on new tyres and stays more consistent.

pug 205 gti

thanks for the input blakey
we use lrp 24 rubbers so that sounds great

have you got easy access to the diffs on the msx mre?
cheers

trf415boy many thanks your all such a great help this gives me abit more coinfidence to choose the mre as you guys are so help full
thanks to you all

TRF415boy

To be honest, I rebuild my diff about every 3 months so the easy access isn't an issue. All you need to do is use Acer racing ceramic ball diffs and AE stealth lube, diffs smooth as butter and super long lasting.

pug 205 gti

now you know i will be itiching to get one quick!!

TRF415boy

Oh yeah the x-ray diffs are a pain, you need to bed them in every time you rebuild them. Tamiyas, just build it, make sure it doesn't slip and off you go.