Eirik

With 6 cells and about 80gr. extra weight added = 1530gr
With 5 cells and no extra weight = 1370gr.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I have my brake set to option 2 out of 6 (so about 30%) on my VX Pro when running a one-way... this just locks the rear wheels, but does give a little braking, if needed in an emergency (car avoidance... or a big driving screw up ).

HiH
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I've always found 19t's need to be geared higher (lower FDR) than a stock to get the speed.

C2 19t at carpet wars (large indoor track) around 6.2

Monster 27t around 7.2

HiH
Ed

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

http://www.thard.co.uk/tips/suspensionslop.html

HiH
Ed

(haven't been on here for a while if you can't guess... )

TRF415boy

It really depends on what motor. For example 8 on a trinity based motor, like a monster, is spot on indoors. But a Orion 27T will want to be geared at about 5.5.

As for 19T, unless the track's real big and you're using an atlas, then 6 will be overgeared. With the Checkpoint and assuming the 8.0 FDR is for a monster or ROAR, then a gearing around 6.8 should be pretty much spot on.

blakeyx

Thanks for the advice everyone. My wife typed my last post and missed a number out. The gearing I was using for my monster stock was in fact 8.70. Stock gearing is something I do know about I kept up with the 19t boys with my stock motor. So with my checkpoint 19t I am assuming something around 7.8 - 7.4 would be right.

Wing Chun

iTrader: (12)

Thank's Eirik and Tryhard for your help and to all you guy's who have been so supportive to me over the year.
PS where have you been Tryhard, and I love your site as well, very imformative.
Best wishes
Addam

Tek Nickal

If you put soft o-rings under the ball cups on the ball studs, it gets rid of much of the slop. I've also found the need to shim the c-hubs.

tbeardmore

iTrader: (3)

Hey Guys -

Just giving you a BIG heads up notice about our next big Race in Omaha.

We'd love to have you guys come up to the "Plex" and join us...

2007 HobbyPLEX Carpet Onroad Challenge - February 22nd - 25th

www.hobbyplexraceway.com

Hopefully you won't have any other plans that weekend?

Happy New Year!
Todd Beardmore

Wing Chun

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Tony
the O ring works great.
Addam

Tek Nickal

No problem, you may even have to use more than one o-ring, if they aren't thick enough to press against the ball cup, but make sure they're soft enough that they don't bind the suspension movement too much.

LBSR415

proceed hit it on the head,,,with the bearing holders inverted and on mine notice they are inside the bulkhead (standard 415 layshaft and center one way in use) 110 tooth gear is tucked up nicely under the chassis

proceed5

Yeah mate, the word should have been "inverted" and not "flip it around"...

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Another great way to take out ALOT of the slop in the car is to take all of the ballcups, drop a 'DAB' of super thin CA into them and flick the ballcup so the CA coats the entire ball on the inside. Makes for a solid but unbinding car. Then shim your outer hingepins, chubs, etc.
I also found it's not necessary to ream your arms for the inner hingepins. This creates unnecessary fore-n-aft slop of the arms. The inner hingepin balls take care of the movement needed in that area. HTH someone ....

Tek Nickal

I've done the CA thing before, but thats only when the ball cups were worn out. If you don't remove ball cups often, or at all, they last a long time without any slop, using the o-ring trick.

For the ball cups where you can access the ball stud from the top, cut the top off the ball cup so you can just unscrew the ball stud without having to remove the ball cup.