asbe88

JUst wanted to know out of randomness what is the difference between an rc10b4 and a race-spec b4 apart from the bodywork and the price.

I have a race-spec b4.

rearviewmirror

iTrader: (17)

Is the race spec the RTR? If so, it has bushings instead of bearings in the transmission and the steering rack. There are also some other difference as well but I forget.

Alan D.

So you basically want to know the difference between the RTR and the Factory team edition?

asbe88

yes that's what i want to know, if the rtr is not as good as the team one, why does it cost more?that's what im asking here, sorry if i didn't make that clear

asbe88

yes the race spec is the rtr model

rcjunkie3000

iTrader: (94)

The RTR costs more because you also get a controller and electronics with it, hence RTR.

If you already own an controller and electrics, go for the team or factory team kit. The fun is also in the build process and you can learn the ins and outs of the car. I owned 6 B4 buggies that were all used because I just wanted to drive (I should have gotten at RTR at the time). However, I learned that not eveyone builds their shocks and diffs the same. I could have easily bought rebuild kits but I wanted to build a kit for once. I recently spent the extra money and bought a brand new Factory Team B4 kit sealed so I can build it myself.

rearviewmirror

iTrader: (17)

Because the factory team is unassembled, has no radio gear, no motor or ESC. You're just paying for the kit. You can just upgrade your RTR to FT parts, at least the important ones. Like the bearings and cooling aluminum motor plate. The carbon/graphite chassis and suspensions arms aren't a big deal, a lot of folks don't run their Factory Team with them anyways because they break very easy. I run GT2 front arms on my Factory Team T4.

This page lists all the differences. http://www.rc10.com/ae/t4/t4_home.htm

asbe88

so which would you say is better a rtr or a factory team model? i would have thought the team model had an altered shape that was more streamlined or something like that.

So the main difference really is that the race-spec is rtr and the factory team model is not? otherwise they're the same right? (well maybe there are a few exceptional parts)

rearviewmirror

iTrader: (17)

Quite a few parts are different, some more important than others.

asbe88

so basically they are very similar except the rc10b4 itsn't ready to run, therefore neither is better?

(btw i got my rtr b4 and from a friend because they prefered their losi xxcr, so it wasn't exactly ready to run, because, the transmitter wasn't supplied and it didn't have a reciever or transmitter.)

READ THIS: if you got a rc10b4 and a rtr b4 and you had the exact same setup in each, the exact same battery, same tyres, same everything they would be the same I take it?

truck driver

Just to let you know the b4-rs has bearings throughout the entire car.
If you have equal electronics and set-ups in both cars they will handle pretty much the same.
the kit comes with hard anodized shock bodies which will make them last longer, and the titanium turnbuckles will be stronger and lighter.

asbe88

thanks just the answer i wanted so yea. i understand now.

rcjunkie3000

iTrader: (94)

All three of them are RC10B4; RC10 B4 RTR, RC10 B4 Team Kit, RC10 B4 Factory Team Kit.

The RTR setup comes with electronics but if you remove the electrics you will still have essentially the same car.

It really boils down to driving. If you are new to driving a B4 you won't notice a difference between the cars. The RTR is a good way to get started and you can always upgrade to the necessary parts down the line. The only other thing you should add are bearings througout. Otherwise you'll be fine running the RTR.

The Factory Team edition comes with carbon composite parts. Many guys will revert back to a plastic tub chassis and arms that the RTR already has. You don't really need all that aluminum "bling" right away. The threaded shocks and adjustable turnbuckles are a nice thing to have. You'll do fine with the RTR.

Alan D.

Pretty much agree with everything said here.
Although I personally prefer the graphite chassis and parts. I haven't had anything break yet.
If your racing the motor plate, titanium turnbuckles, and the better bearings that come with the factory team edition a important.
The better bearings are especially important if your run with a stock motor because you need to make the most of the power you have.
Like its been said you can just upgrade as you break parts.
My list would go like this in order:
Titanium turnbuckles
Shocks (once the regular blue shocks that come with your kit wear out)
Bearings (as they blow)
Motor plate (this will never run out but it'll help the motor stay a little cooler

An interesting mod that you could consider would be putting losi shocks on the B4. They're easier to maintain and don't leak.

JR007

I was thinking of using my Losi shocks on the B4, but then I have the RTR basic shocks. Mind you, these shocks still work great. Threaded shock bodies aren't necessary, in fact, I think it's easier to tune shocks with plastic spacers as you know they have the exact same measurement I guess I am missing the better coatings, but it's not really inhibiting my skills at the moment!