TTR:EB4

iTrader: (3)

as the title says

cheers

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

how fully? bearings,conrod,piston, and sleeve?

if thats all then 216.34 from amain. your better off just buyin a whole new engine.....

heres amains prices for ALL vspec parts
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.php/cPath/1_68_160

TTR:EB4

iTrader: (3)

thanks man, i was thinking Just the bearings, piston and sleeve

jamminnay

iTrader: (11)

if you are installing a new piston and sleeve you will have to install a new conrod

GregH

Buy a new engine. Re-building is a huge waste of money, trust me. What happens when you sink 200 in a used engine to re-build it and you only get a gallon out of it?

captain america

iTrader: (12)

Agreed. Also, lots of people tend to neglect the carb, which likely also needs rebuilding if not outright replacing (needles, O-rings, etc) and depending on who you talk to and how much the engine may have been abused, you might also need to switch-out the conrod. Once you factor the cost of all those other components, buying a new mill is just plain cheaper and less of a hassle.

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

Chances are the crank pin is worn on it if it needs a rebuild at least mine did. The piston and sleeve were still fine in mine but the rod and crank pin developed slop. I sold the parts to a guy who had broken the case on his and bought a new one. It worked out to about the same as a piston, sleeve, rod and bearings would have cost me.

Thats why I now have the JX Ninja because the crank has the DLC coating like the Speed. It keeps the pin from wearing so next time I can just replace the rod.

ABURTON

iTrader: (24)

I was looking around when you posted this to see what you would have to get. If you need bearings, p/s, then you gotta get a crank. With the spec after that much running I think(not positive) that the crank pin eggs out.

I posted you some codes below from www.carolinasrc.com should get you a brand new mill for $270 shipped if you use the coupon.

Personally I run the GRP tuned 21's but I would not get into a used motor for that much so maybe look into getting the new one. Hope this helps


If your Order is Between:You Saveiscount Code:
$100.00 - $199.99 $7.50RCJAN97
$200.00 - $299.99$15.00RCJAN915
$300.00 - $699.99$30.00RCJAN930
$700.00 + $65.00 RCJAN965

ABURTON

iTrader: (24)

At Minimum you need:

Piston, Sleeve, Rod, wrist pin clips, front and rear ceramic bearings. Total added up is about 175 @ carolinas. So it may just make sense to spend the extra $100, although I have been in situations that I could not do that

Zerodefect

So get a new one and keep the old one for spare parts?? (block, head,carb)

Eventually you'll have a pile of V-specs and Then it'll be worth while rebuilding one of them.

4 V-specs every 16 gallons???

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

Generally, I buy a new engine, rebuild it once with new piston&sleeve, rod, pin, clips and after that it is done. But, as mentioned, the rod pin on the crank of the VSPEC is a known issue and I would not recommend it for that engine which is why I don't run that engine. On the Speed, Ninja JX21, RB, Nova motors I would however do the rebuild.

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

Zerodefect, that is exactly why I run the speed instead of the VPSEC. It does have an initial cost of about $100 more, but......I can buy a speed ($400) run 7-8 gallons on it replaceing the rod at 4 gallons ($35) then rebuild it ($135) and run it 5-6 more. So, that is 12-14 gallons (If not more) run time for $570, looking at it that way I have a top end motor, great runtime, and it would take probably 3 VSPEC's to get the same runtime, but at a much higher cost. And yes, I have done it, those are the prices at my LHS (No I am not sponsored).

Zerodefect

Thanks, I'll look into the Jx-21 or Novarossi +4. Its too bad nobody makes a 3 port other than OS. (Ok, I am going to try to build a 3 port WS7, er WS3?,but that deosn't count.)

Reliability is important to minimize cost, but a $400+ dollar motor is a huge gamble. All it takes is one bad crash...... And I don't need more than
V-psec power.

I Think some WS7's and S3's ($180!) might be the ticket in the long run. I fiqure if I stick to one brand for most of my engines eventually I can recover the cost should a block or carb go bad on a new engine.

Should be able to do the same eventually with the OS. And the piston and sleeve for the OS is far cheaper than other brands.

Rb's for one car. A V-spec or Nova +4 for the other. Seems like we can save alot of money if we plan out what engines we run for the long run and try to keep them compatable parts wise. Seeing Rb, Nova, and GRP's on Ebay (new in box) alot more than OS as well.

Zerodefect

I can deal with flimsey bearings, but the Con-rod needs to be as strong as RB's and the crank needs a coating for long life.

I can eat the cost of bearings, con-rods are pricey.

But I could allways get one C6 if I wanted a Speed like engine. Or spend the time and make a WS3.

I'm trying to do the math on the +/- of sticking with one tough brand cost wise. Os & Rb. One is cheaper, one is longer lasting. Just need to find a fuel efficient combo with the Rb's

captain america

iTrader: (12)

I'm afraid I don't follow the logic of your argument: you're spending $570 to get 12-ish gallons of life out of an OS SPEED when you can get a Novarossi custom modified for maybe $370, which will likely produce similar power, yield as good if not better run time and last for just as many gallons. What am I missing here?