Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

I am glad you liked and appreciate the workmanship of the car, and you know you will always get the "hook up" on whatever you need.

motojon

iTrader: (3)

Just finished mine (yesterday) Cant wait to drive it this weekend

xtreme888

Also finished my yesterday off to track tomorrow....

A few bits were missing from the kits...but managed to borrow off a 960 08 which i brought on ebay as a spare !!!

First time testing tomorrow as we got the first nationals of the season this weekend in UK!! let see how this handle and response compared to my mrx4r

motojon

iTrader: (3)

You'll love it I got to drive my friends before i got mine and man was i impressed

Paolo M

Hi guys,

I sent an e-mail to several of you that were willing to know about my experiences with the car. I will post that same info here, just so people that don't feel to send me an e-mail will be able to read the info.

Shocks: soak the foam with oil before building. Fill the shocks until the first thread. I found a good and technical way to make sure the shocks are equal. I use caste clips. Basically I put caster clips in the shaft. So after no more air is in there, pull the piston and install the caster clip (I use 5 mm caster clips for the rear shocks and 4 mm for the front) Screw in the shocks (couple of turns) Then start pushing in the piston all the way down (the caster clip is going to limit the travel). With the piston in this position, screw all the way in the plastic parts. After this remove the caster clip. You will end up with a shock that is super Smooth thru the whole travel with a almost a 50% rebound. If you want less rebound, go 1 mm less clips (both front and rear shocks

Setup: This is what i was using as starting point every were. I will say with this my car was 90%. The rest was just small adjustments depending on track conditions

Front
Downstops 0 (really bumpy track -1)
Sway flat
Car long
Roll center: 1 mm under upper arms and pins inside.
Caster 2 mm in the front
Ackerman: narrow/in
Schocks: 3holes 40WT (1000cst) or 45WT (1400cst). Green springs and 1st position on tower. Stock springs works too but are softer
Wheel scrub: 1 mm inside
Toe: 3 total
Camber: 1.5
Steering blocks: # 2 on the right side
Wheel axle pos: up (sometime I like in the middle) I use just a big bearing for this
Ride height on hudy setup station: 8 (really bumpy track 9)
No under chassis stiffner

Rear
Downstops 6 (really bumpy track 5)
Sway Flat, outside
Car long
Roll center: lower pin all the way up. Upper arm inner hole in the bulkhead, middle hole in the upright, with 2mm spacer
Schocks: 3holes 40WT (1000cst) or 45WT (1400cst). Pink springs and 1st position on tower. Stock spings work too but are softer
Wheel Scrub: 0mm inside
Toe: 2.5
Camber: 3.5
No side stiffner on the right. Left stiffner not screw it in the rear bulkhead (I cut mine so it hold only the belt tensioner) but I have extra in case I want to use it in a specific condition
Ride height on hudy setup: 9.5 (really bumpy track 10.5)
Body position; Whit Zytec I use upper hole in the upright (body mount arm) and second hole from the outside in the body mount Attention: Make sure that you move the bodymount centering shaft if you decide to lower or raise the body. You have 2 holes in the shock tower.

Clutch:
flyweights pivoting against the rotation of the engine Gap 0.8 End play 0.3. Under extreme low traction condition, go to 0.6 gap and 0.3 end play.
Preload: 1.2

Gears:
Low bite: 16-48 / 19-45
High biter: 15-47 or 48 / 19-45

This is the setups I was using. This weekend I made several test and I found a better compromise. Below the changes (whatever is not there I used the same as above)
Front
Roll center: 0 mm under upper arms and pins inside.
Shocks: 1 holes 800 CST with green springs 1st hole
Camber : 2.5 outside 2 inside
Steering blocks; #1 on the right and #2 on the left
Wheel axle: Middle (I use a big bearing)

Rear
Shocks: 2 holes 800 CST with pink springs 1st hole

The car was very good with this setup. I used same shore tires front and rear

Hope this info can help

captian

they make those for the 08 /09 car i have never see them in aluminium???

morook

GOOD!! I'll see you this weekend at the RCX Jon! This will be a good testing ground for the cars...
kenna weyt to run my car no moh..I'll be there friday to break-in an engine and practice

xtreme888

Hi all,

Nice sunny day at the track apart from tail back on the motorway due to strike in France.... but UK was affected as trucks not on ferry !!!

THE CAR WAS EXCELLENT.....it went where i want it to go. The steering was so precise...no understeer or oversteer !!! The back end was planted....it was like scaletrix (not sure spelling !!). was running till front tires had about 5mm of foam and it still work. Was plan to run in my sirio AAC b4 nationals but too much fun that i forgotten.

Used the set up by Paolo M but standard springs and shocks as supplied in kit.

Thought my mugen mrx4r was easy to setup and drive....this car is a different league altogther.

Word of advice...use threadlock as i forgotten on rear axle that connected to rear bulkhead and only go half a rear belt left as it was split in half !!!!

xtreme888

sorry forgotten to mention....the car was amazing through the techinical part (see google map satellite uk type in tn29 9tf to see track)

motojon

iTrader: (3)

That was the first thing Sam at Kamikaze told me to use

hello

iTrader: (-1)

Michael 1 Sie sprechen Deutsches wie ein Idiot!

need-4-speed

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys. I still have the original 960. Can this be upgraded to the 966? Everything I have read says you can go from an '08 to 966. Just thought I'd ask. Thanks

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

It have to be an original 08, because the original 08 have a lot of upgrades if compared to an older 960.

amuse

iTrader: (7)

it can still be done, but you will need to upgrade at least the rear of the car to 08 spec, then but the 966 conversion kit.

i am actually in the process of upgrading my original 960 to not-so-full 08 spec and most likely sometime in the mid season i'll convert it to the 966 spec.

upgrading to the 08 spec, you have a choice of either OS1 or OS2. OS1 uses Serpent wheels, and OS2 uses Mugen/Kyosho wheels.

from what i've read so far, the chassis is not necessary to get the 08 spec, when it's time for me to do the 966 conversion, the 966 chassis is part of the conversion kit.

hopefully my explaination is clear, if you need a list of parts for converting your original 960 to the 08 spec, let me know and i can list them out for you.

stefan

Na Du darfst ja das Maul aufreissen. Schau Dir mal dein Deutsch an.