keeping clean
01-01-2009, 09:19 AM
#16
Complete rebuild of everything. Steering, diffs, driveshafts, shocks and radio tray (i mean everything including the wing 
lol). You know for sure that the car is in top condition for it's next outing. I only use water on the plastics and the chassis once the car is in bits, have had bearings fail and screws rust because of water, and i did dry it all. To get hinge-pins etc shiny and not to bind i clean them up with Autosol cleaner 
lol). You know for sure that the car is in top condition for it's next outing. I only use water on the plastics and the chassis once the car is in bits, have had bearings fail and screws rust because of water, and i did dry it all. To get hinge-pins etc shiny and not to bind i clean them up with Autosol cleaner
there for, WD-40
01-01-2009, 11:00 AM
#18
Cleaning is a breeze...
1. Remove engine,radio tray. (Leave shocks on unless they are getting rebuilt)
2. Spray with O'donnell quick wash, let sit for about 2-3 minutes
3. Hose down
4. Use air compressor to remove ALL excess water.
5. Spray front and rear clips(arms,bulkheads outdrives) with wd40.
6. Spray center diff assembly with wd40.
7. Let wd40 dry and remove unseen excess moisture.
8. wipe off excess wd40
9. reinstall engine(quick brush off to remove excess junk)
10. Brush off radio tray and servo's and reinstall...
DONE
Very quick and easy I check the hinge pins and such about once a month unless I notice some unusual behavior from the buggy while running...
1. Remove engine,radio tray. (Leave shocks on unless they are getting rebuilt)
2. Spray with O'donnell quick wash, let sit for about 2-3 minutes
3. Hose down
4. Use air compressor to remove ALL excess water.
5. Spray front and rear clips(arms,bulkheads outdrives) with wd40.
6. Spray center diff assembly with wd40.
7. Let wd40 dry and remove unseen excess moisture.
8. wipe off excess wd40
9. reinstall engine(quick brush off to remove excess junk)
10. Brush off radio tray and servo's and reinstall...
DONE
Very quick and easy I check the hinge pins and such about once a month unless I notice some unusual behavior from the buggy while running...
01-01-2009, 11:01 AM
#19
O'Donnell Speed wash is the correct name.
01-01-2009, 11:22 AM
#20
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
I used to do do the simple green/ hose/ compressor deal and it works good. Since my compressor broke I have switched to paint brushes and pledge. I like the pledge much better than wd40.
After a few cleanups using pledge the dirt doesn't stick to the car anymore.
After a few cleanups using pledge the dirt doesn't stick to the car anymore.
01-01-2009, 11:35 AM
#21
+1 pledge works real well. I still use wd-40 on the bearings and outdrives and then coat it with pledge. the pledge leaves a much nicer finish than wd and it repels dirt instead of attracting it. but I still feel after using water wd is a mucs on all the rust prone areas(outdrives, bearings, cvd joints)
01-01-2009, 11:38 AM
#22
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
yup
Ok here is my basic cleaning process. can be done in about an hour maybe less.
step 1: take the dirty car and pull the body, wing, and tires off. Now pull the engine, fuel tank, radio tray, and pipe off.
step 2: with it torn down to the basic roller chassis, hose it down with the garden hose (I use a short hose attached to my basement sink in the winter)
step 3: douse heavily with diluted simple green and scrub with a scrub brush/ tooth brush for small areas.
step 4: rinse with hose
step 5: spray bearings and outdrives etc. with wd-40
step 6: coat with pledge (yes the furniture cleaner/polish). this step can be skipped or you can use wd-40 for this too. I prefer the pledge because it shines it, doesn't leave an oily residue and repels dust.
step 7: dry with air compressor and wrags.
step 8: reassemble
step 9: get it dirty again lol
My cars look brand new every weekend. Some may prefer to remove the shocks aswell, and clean them seperately. Personally I have never had a problem with them getting any water in them.
It may also be a good idea to use wd-40 on hinge pins and ball end joints.
step 1: take the dirty car and pull the body, wing, and tires off. Now pull the engine, fuel tank, radio tray, and pipe off.
step 2: with it torn down to the basic roller chassis, hose it down with the garden hose (I use a short hose attached to my basement sink in the winter)
step 3: douse heavily with diluted simple green and scrub with a scrub brush/ tooth brush for small areas.
step 4: rinse with hose
step 5: spray bearings and outdrives etc. with wd-40
step 6: coat with pledge (yes the furniture cleaner/polish). this step can be skipped or you can use wd-40 for this too. I prefer the pledge because it shines it, doesn't leave an oily residue and repels dust.
step 7: dry with air compressor and wrags.
step 8: reassemble
step 9: get it dirty again lol
My cars look brand new every weekend. Some may prefer to remove the shocks aswell, and clean them seperately. Personally I have never had a problem with them getting any water in them.
It may also be a good idea to use wd-40 on hinge pins and ball end joints.
01-01-2009, 04:06 PM
#24
I never use a garden hose or directly spray water on my buggy. This can cause unforseen problems. Water can sieze screws that thread into any metal, rust and/or pit hingepins causing excessive suspension arm wear and damage to your shocks and bearings. This is how i like to do it, it takes 1.5-2 hours tops depending on how many maintenence issues you find.
-Remove/Clean Body
-Remove tires/wheels
-Pull Engine/Pipe and fuel line
-Pull Radio tray
-Fuel tank,Take a 6in peice of spare fuel tubing and route it from the pressure nipple to the outlet nipple. Remove/Clean.
-Remove/Clean wing
-Remove shocks
-Detatch swaybars from arms
-Remove all 4 upper hubcarrier hingepins/screws so the axles will flop out of the outdrives
-Use dry toothbrush to brush off the heavy dirt
-Use pick to clean dirt from screwheads on bottom side of chassis
-Take a red plastic party cup and fill it halfway with 50/50 Simple Green and alcohol.
-Dip toothbrush into cup and scrub the entire chassis like hell starting from one end and wipe with a rag as you go. But stay away from outer wheel bearings.
-Remove the wheel hubs then pop out the wheel bearings and wipe them off. Roll between your fingers, if their gritty, clean and relube.
-Remove springs and boots from shocks and clean and inspect assembly.
-Use dry toothbrush to scrub radio tray
-Dry toothbrush on the engine/pipe, inspect/repair clutch
-clean re-oil air filters
The product I use to protect and lubricate the chassis may be hard to find for you but its called Maxima SC1. Motocross shops that carry Maxima brand lubricants will have it. It is superior to WD40 because it dries non greasy so dust doesnt stick but leaves a "wet" appearance. After assembly I spray the crap out of the car save the brakes and let it dry.
I found this cleaning method works best because not only does it keep harmful water away but also allows you to put your hands and eyes on every part of the car so you can see any problems that may have came up.
-Remove/Clean Body
-Remove tires/wheels
-Pull Engine/Pipe and fuel line
-Pull Radio tray
-Fuel tank,Take a 6in peice of spare fuel tubing and route it from the pressure nipple to the outlet nipple. Remove/Clean.
-Remove/Clean wing
-Remove shocks
-Detatch swaybars from arms
-Remove all 4 upper hubcarrier hingepins/screws so the axles will flop out of the outdrives
-Use dry toothbrush to brush off the heavy dirt
-Use pick to clean dirt from screwheads on bottom side of chassis
-Take a red plastic party cup and fill it halfway with 50/50 Simple Green and alcohol.
-Dip toothbrush into cup and scrub the entire chassis like hell starting from one end and wipe with a rag as you go. But stay away from outer wheel bearings.
-Remove the wheel hubs then pop out the wheel bearings and wipe them off. Roll between your fingers, if their gritty, clean and relube.
-Remove springs and boots from shocks and clean and inspect assembly.
-Use dry toothbrush to scrub radio tray
-Dry toothbrush on the engine/pipe, inspect/repair clutch
-clean re-oil air filters
The product I use to protect and lubricate the chassis may be hard to find for you but its called Maxima SC1. Motocross shops that carry Maxima brand lubricants will have it. It is superior to WD40 because it dries non greasy so dust doesnt stick but leaves a "wet" appearance. After assembly I spray the crap out of the car save the brakes and let it dry.
I found this cleaning method works best because not only does it keep harmful water away but also allows you to put your hands and eyes on every part of the car so you can see any problems that may have came up.
01-01-2009, 05:05 PM
#25
this is way to much work. if you race and go through your ride as much as you SHOULD there is no reason water will hurt it . if your car sits along enough to let the water start messing up your metal parts then your car is going to be junk anyway.. i pull my engine.. stop at the car wash on the way home.. hit it with simple green..blast it all out.. get home ..hit it with some air.. then wd 40.. then it comes about 80% apart for the next week..
01-01-2009, 06:21 PM
#26
BigAL got it right!!
01-01-2009, 06:56 PM
#28
nope...iphone rules
01-01-2009, 07:46 PM
#29
Tech Adept
this is way to much work. if you race and go through your ride as much as you SHOULD there is no reason water will hurt it . if your car sits along enough to let the water start messing up your metal parts then your car is going to be junk anyway.. i pull my engine.. stop at the car wash on the way home.. hit it with simple green..blast it all out.. get home ..hit it with some air.. then wd 40.. then it comes about 80% apart for the next week..
01-01-2009, 08:04 PM
#30
you dont have to rebuild the diffs and shocks after getting your car wet...
but how are your bearings getting the dust cleaned out of them if you say you dont have to go through them??? after a day at the track my bearings need good blasting out regardless how it was cleaned.. especially if they are "greased" up like you say. ..i have never ran the grease in my bearings... or alot of lube for that matter.. im not fast but i know what works for me .. and i know water will not hurt a well maintenced car.
but how are your bearings getting the dust cleaned out of them if you say you dont have to go through them??? after a day at the track my bearings need good blasting out regardless how it was cleaned.. especially if they are "greased" up like you say. ..i have never ran the grease in my bearings... or alot of lube for that matter.. im not fast but i know what works for me .. and i know water will not hurt a well maintenced car.