do brushless motors lose performance over time?
12-21-2008, 11:02 PM
#18
been racing my 5.5 in my t4 and a 4.5 in my b44 for 2 yrs now and still good
and it is true NEVER use motor spray on these brushless motors it will have too much moisture for the components in it
compressed air is good enough to clean it and it is basically closed so no dirt should get in it
the only thing that can wear are the bearing again it should not be exposed to the elements unless it is not sealed right
heat is the worse enemy of a BL motor
it can fry the winding in it r warp the rotor
A sintered rotor would be a good mod for a brushless to give it more torque
this is what the AE drivers use in thier cars
I will be changing my 4.5 in my b44 to a 7.5 sintered rotor and would still have the grunt to make jumps but not the rpms and heat that is not needed in offroad racing
I race my 4.5 with a 16t pinion against a friend who has sintered 7.5 and you would not see a difference in speed bec I am geared lower and he has more torque in it so he can gear 2t up from the usual 7.5 gearing
and it is true NEVER use motor spray on these brushless motors it will have too much moisture for the components in it
compressed air is good enough to clean it and it is basically closed so no dirt should get in it
the only thing that can wear are the bearing again it should not be exposed to the elements unless it is not sealed right
heat is the worse enemy of a BL motor
it can fry the winding in it r warp the rotor
A sintered rotor would be a good mod for a brushless to give it more torque
this is what the AE drivers use in thier cars
I will be changing my 4.5 in my b44 to a 7.5 sintered rotor and would still have the grunt to make jumps but not the rpms and heat that is not needed in offroad racing
I race my 4.5 with a 16t pinion against a friend who has sintered 7.5 and you would not see a difference in speed bec I am geared lower and he has more torque in it so he can gear 2t up from the usual 7.5 gearing
12-22-2008, 07:39 AM
#20
Tech Elite
iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,891
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I have ;
4-novak 17.5's
2 novak 13.5's
1novak ss5800 that has the sintered upgrade
1 novak 8.5
All of them run like new after over a year of use.We have a track at our house so the 17.5's and the 13.5's get used ALOT.
I gear mine using a temp gun.I never run them over 135* .As for maitenance , I clean and oil the bearings every 10 runs.I dont use motor spray on the front bearings though.I use wd 40 after taking the front end bell off,then oil with bearing oil.Then blow out the motor using compressed air. I have never had an issue with the rear bearing since its pretty much sealed, so I just lube it with a couple drops of oil.
so far doing things this way I have had no issues out of any of the 8 BL motors I run, and all of them still perform super.
4-novak 17.5's
2 novak 13.5's
1novak ss5800 that has the sintered upgrade
1 novak 8.5
All of them run like new after over a year of use.We have a track at our house so the 17.5's and the 13.5's get used ALOT.
I gear mine using a temp gun.I never run them over 135* .As for maitenance , I clean and oil the bearings every 10 runs.I dont use motor spray on the front bearings though.I use wd 40 after taking the front end bell off,then oil with bearing oil.Then blow out the motor using compressed air. I have never had an issue with the rear bearing since its pretty much sealed, so I just lube it with a couple drops of oil.
so far doing things this way I have had no issues out of any of the 8 BL motors I run, and all of them still perform super.
12-22-2008, 09:06 AM
#21
Over 180F the magnet will slightly weaken but is will not be noticeable unless you repeatedly go over 180. Over 200 and the rotor is shot...I had two motors go over 210. With one the spur/pinion and rear diff gear were messed up after a wreck and I kept racing and the other was WAY overgeared after going from a big outdoor track to a very tight high traction track
Fresh rotors=good as new and they are now over a year old.
Novak tried to make it so you would have to buy their "bearing replacement kit" which is a whole new endbell.
I'll never pay $20 for a pair of bearings so I found some ceramic bearings on ebay for $3 a-peice plus shipping. You really have to pound on the bearing in the endbell to get it out, but it is possible. I used a hex socket as a punch and just put the endbell on a hard surface and was able to tap it out with a hammer. To get the bearing back in I used a plastic mallet and just kept tapping around the edge of the bearing till it was fully seated. Here is the bearing I used:
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-16x1-2-x10-51-...742.m153.l1262
Fresh rotors=good as new and they are now over a year old.
I'll never pay $20 for a pair of bearings so I found some ceramic bearings on ebay for $3 a-peice plus shipping. You really have to pound on the bearing in the endbell to get it out, but it is possible. I used a hex socket as a punch and just put the endbell on a hard surface and was able to tap it out with a hammer. To get the bearing back in I used a plastic mallet and just kept tapping around the edge of the bearing till it was fully seated. Here is the bearing I used:http://cgi.ebay.com/3-16x1-2-x10-51-...742.m153.l1262
12-22-2008, 12:37 PM
#22
Before you go pounding on it to get the bearing out, heat the endbell as hot as you can with a heat gun. That does two things:
a) It softens tye adhesive used by Novak to hold the bearing in place
b) The aluminum endbell expands more than the steel bearing and makes the press fit a little looser.
Ideally heat it with a heat gun on a block of wood until it is way too hot to touch. Then try removing the bearing.
a) It softens tye adhesive used by Novak to hold the bearing in place
b) The aluminum endbell expands more than the steel bearing and makes the press fit a little looser.
Ideally heat it with a heat gun on a block of wood until it is way too hot to touch. Then try removing the bearing.
12-22-2008, 12:52 PM
#23
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
Once you remove a bearing by pounding on it throw it away as the ball races are surely dented. Installation needs to be by pressure/tapping on the outer race only. I have seen a couple of bearing removal/installation tools. I have the following and it works just fine.
http://rc4less.com/Motors,_Brushed_&...duct_info.html
Other one I know of is:
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...eae6f6eb509562
http://rc4less.com/Motors,_Brushed_&...duct_info.html
Other one I know of is:
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...eae6f6eb509562
12-23-2008, 08:54 AM
#25
Sorry but I have to repeat this before I next open up my motor for cleaning.
If I do not have compressed air, what is a good way to remove or clean the inside of the motor can?
As mentioned earlier, it's a Orion motor that has opening around the motor can, which I figure has allowed much dust and dirt inside it.
Suggestions?
Pull out the rotor? Leave it alone?
If I do not have compressed air, what is a good way to remove or clean the inside of the motor can?
As mentioned earlier, it's a Orion motor that has opening around the motor can, which I figure has allowed much dust and dirt inside it.
Suggestions?
Pull out the rotor? Leave it alone?
12-23-2008, 09:59 AM
#26
Go to Walmart and get a can of air.
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