Losi 8ight 1.0 Pros/Cons
12-02-2008, 05:53 PM
#16
It's a great engine espicially for a rook they are easy to tune and last forever. If I had it to do over again I would spend a couple extra dollars and get an S5.
Or if you want to get the most bang for your buck get the GO 7 port. less than an S5 but will keep up or out run practically anything. They are a little more temper mental than a RB but a good solid motor.
If this is your first engine I would choose the RB it allows for a larger learning curve than any other engine.
Or if you want to get the most bang for your buck get the GO 7 port. less than an S5 but will keep up or out run practically anything. They are a little more temper mental than a RB but a good solid motor.
If this is your first engine I would choose the RB it allows for a larger learning curve than any other engine.
12-03-2008, 06:23 AM
#19
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Not really a "problem" but something to take note of: The Losi MUST be set with looser mesh on the clutchbell/spur gear, due to more chassis flex than most. The King Headz extended motor mount helps there.
The bushings in the ackerman plate wear pretty rapidly. There is a fix posted in the Losi thread about how to fix that with bronze bushings. I did it on mine and never had to fix it again.
I had a bit of a problem with rear ring and pinion sets, but that doesn't seem to be common on the buggy, just on the truggy. (I had a buggy and still had that issue though.)
The Losi is a GREAT car for the right driver. Turns on a dime, very agile and athletic. A little too edgy for me to drive...
And the Mach 427 is a great motor if your local track will let you run an "illegal" motor. (Buggy class is limited to a .21, and it is a .26)
The bushings in the ackerman plate wear pretty rapidly. There is a fix posted in the Losi thread about how to fix that with bronze bushings. I did it on mine and never had to fix it again.
I had a bit of a problem with rear ring and pinion sets, but that doesn't seem to be common on the buggy, just on the truggy. (I had a buggy and still had that issue though.)
The Losi is a GREAT car for the right driver. Turns on a dime, very agile and athletic. A little too edgy for me to drive...
And the Mach 427 is a great motor if your local track will let you run an "illegal" motor. (Buggy class is limited to a .21, and it is a .26)
12-03-2008, 09:50 AM
#21
and will work on 1.0
12-03-2008, 12:47 PM
#22
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12-03-2008, 12:51 PM
#23
12-03-2008, 12:54 PM
#24
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OK - I answered my own question. Looks like the steel bushing to minimize slop is the change to the ackermann brace; not the geometry of that piece. Something else in the steering was altered though...
From Losi's website:
Precision Steering Geometry and Servo Saver
Improving on the 8IGHTs original steering design was a difficult task, but the engineers at Team Losi Racing have managed to increase the consistency of the servo savers operation by further tweaking the steering geometry. Additional gains in steering precision were made by incorporating a new, pressed-steel bushing in the Ackermann brace for reducing friction over the entire range of motion.
From Losi's website:
Precision Steering Geometry and Servo Saver
Improving on the 8IGHTs original steering design was a difficult task, but the engineers at Team Losi Racing have managed to increase the consistency of the servo savers operation by further tweaking the steering geometry. Additional gains in steering precision were made by incorporating a new, pressed-steel bushing in the Ackermann brace for reducing friction over the entire range of motion.
12-03-2008, 12:58 PM
#25
the angle at which the bellcrank and the servo saver top meet has been changed, as well as using a new heavier duty spring
12-03-2008, 01:00 PM
#26
they also used the truggy servo saver spring and hardware on the 2.0, which is the added consistancy along with the pressed ackerman bushings
12-03-2008, 01:03 PM
#27
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12-03-2008, 01:09 PM
#28
baustin - im not sure its the truggy spring.. if you look at the old 8t truggy spring and the new 8 2.0 spring it is different.
12-03-2008, 01:13 PM
#29
no problem Jeremy.....
Mike, your right,......it is quite a bit stronger than the old one thats for shure.....similar to the truggy spring.
Mike, your right,......it is quite a bit stronger than the old one thats for shure.....similar to the truggy spring.
Last edited by BAUSTIN; 12-03-2008 at 01:26 PM.
12-03-2008, 05:25 PM
#30
Well seeing as how we are all throwing out fixes and advice let me add this one. I found the steel flywheel was way better than the aluminum (blue) flywheel.
The steel gave a much smoother take off and carries more momentum ie.. its heavier. Also when your shimming your clutchbell and you get the correct 1 shim or less of play you don't play peek a boo with the clutch shoes. ie.. the clutch shoe deck sits higher so the clutch shoes are further inside of the clutchbell.
I want to say I've experienced less CB bearing wear as well. However thats generally based on shiming the CB and squaring the engine properly than anything else. Trust me had alot of practice in that area should be able to do it blind folded now.
The steel gave a much smoother take off and carries more momentum ie.. its heavier. Also when your shimming your clutchbell and you get the correct 1 shim or less of play you don't play peek a boo with the clutch shoes. ie.. the clutch shoe deck sits higher so the clutch shoes are further inside of the clutchbell.
I want to say I've experienced less CB bearing wear as well. However thats generally based on shiming the CB and squaring the engine properly than anything else. Trust me had alot of practice in that area should be able to do it blind folded now.