Skjoldborg

Thanks a lot Nexxus for the reference on your car. Maybe IŽll have to completely go through the suspension again, check rods, springs and everything. Even the P09 which might have the tiniest play on the RHS or something. Or that is not something you guys have experienced?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

for the flatboard check -- you can find an XRay driver to help you. a friendly XRay driver described this to me as-

"On a flat board or a piece of glass to see if it might be bent or twisted. What I normally do to check if my chassis is tweaked is place the car on droop blocks on a flat setup board, then apply & hold pressure to the left and right evenly on the front tower (you could press on the bulkheads I imagine). While keeping this pressure on the front, I will then tap each side of the rear tower. If there is any gap between either corner and the block, the car will move when you tap it which indicates that the chassis is twisted. If the chassis is flat, the car will not move at all when you tap it, it will just feel solid. I then swap ends, applying pressure to the rear tower while tapping the front to check the other way just in case."

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

What weight is the battery? The SMC I have on there is a 6500mah and comes in at 305 grams. When I run the Nanotech Ultimate 6000mah they weigh 299 grams so I have 5 grams of weight on the battery side. That gives me a RTR weight of 1390 grams total. If you have a LCG 5600 battery it's probably 270-280 grams so try adding 20 grams to that side and weigh it again. Every 10-15 grams weight can translate to a lot more on the scales I recall having to change out my Tekin RS Gen 2 esc as it was too light, the RSX is 12 grams heavier and it made a difference to the balance.

Skjoldborg

Thanks a lot once again Hanulec! IŽll defiantly try this and see what happens with the chassis and report back!

daktulos

iTrader: (2)

Hi to all corner scales users!

I was using this method to setup my cars and become almost crazy about it

Here are my observations (some people may found me wrong):
- no rubber wheels are straight even if fresh out of the bag and the big contact patch can make false results, use setup wheels
- setup wheels are sometime not 100% straight, when having funky or not consistent measurements turn one setup wheel at the time to see if weight change
- check for bent axles suspension parts etc. like already said
- obvious but be certain the surface where you measure is straight level and clean
- when having funky measurements swap the car 180 degree on the scale and swap scale left to tight to see if you have the same measurement, it need to be if not check the scale!

This may sound negative but you may take this into consideration...
I am still using my corner weight scales but now I just use it at home as a reference for weight bias not to setup the car.

My two cents
Alexandre

Skjoldborg

The weight of my LRP 5600 LCG is 272.2g, but then again the danish DRCMU series weight limit is 1350, so ItŽs like 40g lower than yours? And then again most pro drivers dont have ballast on there batteries, why should i then need to? :-) If you catch my drift.

sg1735

iTrader: (6)

You also need to pay close attention when mounting the center brace to the chassis plate as this has been known to cause the chassis to tweak. Sometimes you may have to flat board sand the brace or leave a screw out which is causing the tweak

Skjoldborg

Thanks a lot for your input Alexandre!

To my own frustration i already do that.
Setupwheels - check.
Turn them around - check.
Swap car 180degrees - checkety check!

It still indicates that the car is heavier on one diagonal line than the other. And especially thinking that the none-engine-side is heavier than the engine-side makes me really frustrated. Seams more and more like its bend IŽm afraid. But IŽll do like Hanulec suggested and come back with the results!

daktulos

iTrader: (2)

One thing I made to my car is to measure the 4 preload screws (RHS) and be certain they are the same length.
After a setup change or rebuild I always screw those screw to the bottom and unscrew them 1 turn and a half at the 4 corners. Habitually I am really close to the ride hight I run and rarely to setup the car I need to adjust one screw more than an other left vs right...
You may try this and see for the same preload how off you are on the scale.
If it's still off and that you already checked for the straightness of the chassis you have something wrong on the suspension side for sure.
After the preload reset you may check to which end the car is wrong by checking the action of the suspension almost like when you check the droop. I do that by checking the action of the SPR02 vs the AM17 when I rock the car on the setup board and the wheels begins to moving up.

I think you figure the essential of what I mean.
Sorry if I am not clear English is not my first language

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

The equal preload on RHS screws is a great tip!

josecarlo1129

iTrader: (1)

This part is indeed crucial. My method is by using shim/s. I used to have mini4wd cars. I simply use these shims to correctly set the RHS, equally on all 4 sides instead of counting the turns. I find it also hard to measure by using a caliper since that part is tight and tiny (especially if everything is there).

JayL

scales:

I do it on a board I have leveled in both directions, using a level, not just a flat board
just wanted to clarify that

DamageNZ

iTrader: (1)

Hi all,

I have put my A700 Evo together, set it up and put it on the track and it goes really well! My only complaint is the steering. It has a wide turning circle - even at low speed, and just doesnt have the aggressive turn-in I like. I do not have a caster doodle, so the caster will be off slightly (set as best I can for the mean time).

Does anyone have any ideas on what I could do to increase the turn-in and make the turn radius smaller? I'm currently running 2k in the rear diff, spool front. 1.5 camber Front, 2.5 rear. 1deg front toe, 3deg rear.

Cheers,

Glen

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

I'm at that stage too, same class (21.5) the car tended to push on corner exit particularly on a sharp right hander just didn't bring itself around enough and was clipping the left hand wall on exit.

A lot of different opinions on set up and to be honest I feel like the dumb kid in the class asking all the questions that I have, but what did help me was removing the swaybars altogether and giving the front a little more caster (4 degrees or so)

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

?? Not enough turn in. That is either 1) physical servo/steering setup issue. How many degrees of throw do you have on setup gauges? 2) a setup problem with not running the front end softer than rear end