143LikesAwesomatix EP Touring Car (A700 Shaft Drive)
03-09-2015, 12:01 PM
#8191
Sorry to hear about the trouble you've had. It is definitely a very complicated car to work with compared to any other kit I've worked with. My car feels dialed, and all of its settings still intimidate me. I'm far from "knowing" the car.
The only way you could possibly cause that sort of damage is 1) by not having the shock cylinders installed properly so they were "bottoming out" too soon in the suspension travel and/or 2) you didn't have the up-travel screws installed, so when you hit the boards the suspension went up too far breaking/bending those pieces.
The only way you could possibly cause that sort of damage is 1) by not having the shock cylinders installed properly so they were "bottoming out" too soon in the suspension travel and/or 2) you didn't have the up-travel screws installed, so when you hit the boards the suspension went up too far breaking/bending those pieces.
Take a hard hit those pieces need to be checked.
03-09-2015, 01:19 PM
#8192
Moderator
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
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To be fair, the stock C04 arm has enough flex in it, that on a strong hit, even with up travel screws set you can not only bend the SPR02's but you can also bend the arm... I have a set of C04M's coming to see how much stiffer they are compared to the relatively flexible stock arms.
Last edited by Clegg; 03-09-2015 at 03:54 PM.
03-09-2015, 03:14 PM
#8193
As for me, I'm done. It was an occasionally fun (but mostly frustrating) ride during this one year period of experimenting with "something different". Time to step away and return to the realm of the sane. 
Cars and parts will NOT be up for sale on the Buy/Sell forum in a couple of days thanks to Jamison R's quippy responses. Thanks a ton, dude. Why you gotta be a hater?
Cars and parts will NOT be up for sale on the Buy/Sell forum in a couple of days thanks to Jamison R's quippy responses. Thanks a ton, dude. Why you gotta be a hater?
All you can do is sweep the leg.
03-09-2015, 03:40 PM
#8194
As for me, I'm done. It was an occasionally fun (but mostly frustrating) ride during this one year period of experimenting with "something different". Time to step away and return to the realm of the sane.
Cars and parts will NOT be up for sale on the Buy/Sell forum in a couple of days thanks to Jamison R's quippy responses. Thanks a ton, dude. Why you gotta be a hater?
Cars and parts will NOT be up for sale on the Buy/Sell forum in a couple of days thanks to Jamison R's quippy responses. Thanks a ton, dude. Why you gotta be a hater?
this week i built a new Evo 2 kit, and ran it for the first time in racing (no practice due to 'work' getting in the way -- unicorn issues). anyway, after completing just two laps in Q1, i found that i had a little wiggle/bend/gap within my spr02 springs after those first two laps. in the pits before round 2 i adjusted the dampers within the AM17 holders while they were installed in the car. i just loosened the screw on the AM17 and compressed the suspension fully once. i tightened the screws back --- did this one at time. my next run, Q2 wasn't stellar, as i was still working on making my Gee setup not traction roll. when i got back to the pits i expected to have a lot of bent spr02 (as we did at Snowbirds). instead, i found a slop free suspension like i was used to getting w/ the prior car/old dampers.
by round 3 -- i nearly TQ'd, if it wasn't for some back marker body damper -- pancaking my body, i think i could have done it. fairtrace took the same car out in the 3rd round of mod qualifying and beat TQ by 3-4s .... all with a car he never did one lap with.
anyway -- long story short -- the car is different. and sometimes you need to know a trick or two. but in the history of my car racing, i've never been able to build a car, put 5 packs thru it, and nearly TQ at a national quality race. car is super dialed....
03-09-2015, 07:49 PM
#8195
Tech Apprentice
stogie - spr02 don't break unless you hit something. with the new damper, D2-s, we have seen more spr02 bending that usual (i used to always bend the spr02 in the rear of my car w/ D6 dampers after a BIG wreck).
this week i built a new Evo 2 kit, and ran it for the first time in racing (no practice due to 'work' getting in the way -- unicorn issues). anyway, after completing just two laps in Q1, i found that i had a little wiggle/bend/gap within my spr02 springs after those first two laps. in the pits before round 2 i adjusted the dampers within the AM17 holders while they were installed in the car. i just loosened the screw on the AM17 and compressed the suspension fully once. i tightened the screws back --- did this one at time. my next run, Q2 wasn't stellar, as i was still working on making my Gee setup not traction roll. when i got back to the pits i expected to have a lot of bent spr02 (as we did at Snowbirds). instead, i found a slop free suspension like i was used to getting w/ the prior car/old dampers.
by round 3 -- i nearly TQ'd, if it wasn't for some back marker body damper -- pancaking my body, i think i could have done it. fairtrace took the same car out in the 3rd round of mod qualifying and beat TQ by 3-4s .... all with a car he never did one lap with.
anyway -- long story short -- the car is different. and sometimes you need to know a trick or two. but in the history of my car racing, i've never been able to build a car, put 5 packs thru it, and nearly TQ at a national quality race. car is super dialed....
this week i built a new Evo 2 kit, and ran it for the first time in racing (no practice due to 'work' getting in the way -- unicorn issues). anyway, after completing just two laps in Q1, i found that i had a little wiggle/bend/gap within my spr02 springs after those first two laps. in the pits before round 2 i adjusted the dampers within the AM17 holders while they were installed in the car. i just loosened the screw on the AM17 and compressed the suspension fully once. i tightened the screws back --- did this one at time. my next run, Q2 wasn't stellar, as i was still working on making my Gee setup not traction roll. when i got back to the pits i expected to have a lot of bent spr02 (as we did at Snowbirds). instead, i found a slop free suspension like i was used to getting w/ the prior car/old dampers.
by round 3 -- i nearly TQ'd, if it wasn't for some back marker body damper -- pancaking my body, i think i could have done it. fairtrace took the same car out in the 3rd round of mod qualifying and beat TQ by 3-4s .... all with a car he never did one lap with.
anyway -- long story short -- the car is different. and sometimes you need to know a trick or two. but in the history of my car racing, i've never been able to build a car, put 5 packs thru it, and nearly TQ at a national quality race. car is super dialed....
03-09-2015, 08:28 PM
#8196
The new trick I'm suggesting I believe really works. I ran a lot of mod tc Saturday night post racing and put d2-s only in the rear of the car after re-establishing my old car performance baseline. I'm pretty confident this fine, but ad-hoc adjustment will work for others...
03-09-2015, 10:18 PM
#8197
A700 evo GT setup
does anyone here have a good starting setup for GT class 17.5 traction is low-med. Thanks!
03-09-2015, 11:18 PM
#8198
Im beginning to feel like Stogie. I asked many times here for some sort of setup guide and apart from one answer I've been told that I should just set it up like I would normally do.Believe me I would if I knew how. LOL Awesomatix guys write a how to setup guide PLEASE !!
03-10-2015, 12:04 AM
#8199
I was feeling similar with seemingly no starting point, going out to my local club track that changes nearly every event. I was pretty overwhelmed. Thanks to Mark for pointing me in the right direction to get started. Here are a bunch of setup sheets for different conditions.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/awes...ixA700Evo.html
I'm of course extremely green with this car, but I've already found the same thing everyone else seems to have; once you find a good starting point for your track, dialing this car in is just like any other car. The only difference is how you make the adjustments (ie turning a screw rather than changing a spring/fluid, turning tie-rods rather than changing a caster block). The principles in my TC3 tuning guide still apply to this car.
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/awes...ixA700Evo.html
I'm of course extremely green with this car, but I've already found the same thing everyone else seems to have; once you find a good starting point for your track, dialing this car in is just like any other car. The only difference is how you make the adjustments (ie turning a screw rather than changing a spring/fluid, turning tie-rods rather than changing a caster block). The principles in my TC3 tuning guide still apply to this car.
03-10-2015, 01:08 AM
#8200
www.awesomatix.info
New website for all Awesomatix drivers and all people who are interested in the Awesomatix Touring Car.
Created by the European Awesomatix Team.
Here you will find Tips and Tricks, setups, manuals and info about new parts.
The Website is available in English and German language.
www.awesomatix.info
Have a look and enjoy (y)
Created by the European Awesomatix Team.
Here you will find Tips and Tricks, setups, manuals and info about new parts.
The Website is available in English and German language.
www.awesomatix.info
Have a look and enjoy (y)
03-10-2015, 05:46 AM
#8201
stogie - spr02 don't break unless you hit something. with the new damper, D2-s, we have seen more spr02 bending that usual (i used to always bend the spr02 in the rear of my car w/ D6 dampers after a BIG wreck).
this week i built a new Evo 2 kit, and ran it for the first time in racing (no practice due to 'work' getting in the way -- unicorn issues). anyway, after completing just two laps in Q1, i found that i had a little wiggle/bend/gap within my spr02 springs after those first two laps. in the pits before round 2 i adjusted the dampers within the AM17 holders while they were installed in the car. i just loosened the screw on the AM17 and compressed the suspension fully once. i tightened the screws back --- did this one at time. my next run, Q2 wasn't stellar, as i was still working on making my Gee setup not traction roll. when i got back to the pits i expected to have a lot of bent spr02 (as we did at Snowbirds). instead, i found a slop free suspension like i was used to getting w/ the prior car/old dampers.
by round 3 -- i nearly TQ'd, if it wasn't for some back marker body damper -- pancaking my body, i think i could have done it. fairtrace took the same car out in the 3rd round of mod qualifying and beat TQ by 3-4s .... all with a car he never did one lap with.
anyway -- long story short -- the car is different. and sometimes you need to know a trick or two. but in the history of my car racing, i've never been able to build a car, put 5 packs thru it, and nearly TQ at a national quality race. car is super dialed....
this week i built a new Evo 2 kit, and ran it for the first time in racing (no practice due to 'work' getting in the way -- unicorn issues). anyway, after completing just two laps in Q1, i found that i had a little wiggle/bend/gap within my spr02 springs after those first two laps. in the pits before round 2 i adjusted the dampers within the AM17 holders while they were installed in the car. i just loosened the screw on the AM17 and compressed the suspension fully once. i tightened the screws back --- did this one at time. my next run, Q2 wasn't stellar, as i was still working on making my Gee setup not traction roll. when i got back to the pits i expected to have a lot of bent spr02 (as we did at Snowbirds). instead, i found a slop free suspension like i was used to getting w/ the prior car/old dampers.
by round 3 -- i nearly TQ'd, if it wasn't for some back marker body damper -- pancaking my body, i think i could have done it. fairtrace took the same car out in the 3rd round of mod qualifying and beat TQ by 3-4s .... all with a car he never did one lap with.
anyway -- long story short -- the car is different. and sometimes you need to know a trick or two. but in the history of my car racing, i've never been able to build a car, put 5 packs thru it, and nearly TQ at a national quality race. car is super dialed....
this past weekend i set my up travel to be 14mm high.
03-10-2015, 06:06 AM
#8202
To be fair, the stock C04 arm has enough flex in it, that on a strong hit, even with up travel screws set you can not only bend the SPR02's but you can also bend the arm... I have a set of C04M's coming to see how much stiffer they are compared to the relatively flexible stock arms.
I was running Mod sedan on a tight carpet track with unforgiving barriers. This kinda stuff will happen, I understand that.
03-14-2015, 06:40 AM
#8203
For me, I had always seemed to struggle with mid-corner under steer with my Xray T4. At very least, the Awesomatix seems to fit my driving style better. The ease of quick track-side adjustments makes the car tons of fun to try different settings.
The car was very fast first time out, excited to see how the season plays out once we get the car fine tuned....
03-15-2015, 08:33 PM
#8204
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Hey Guys,
So I was looking at Mike Gee's and Andrew's Evo 2 setups and playing around with that setup on an Evo 1. One thing that didn't make sense from the setup sheets that I need some help on is the overall spring rate that is listed?
Going off Andrew Mowery's setup (knowing dampening is different between the Evo1 dampers and the new ones) the damper position and spring screw position don't equal or match the rates listed. Andrews setup sheet shows a 4mm spring gap, 1mm Damper setup, and lists at 55.0F, and a 6mm/1mm 68.4 R . Going off Brent's (V2) spreadsheet and other charts on what that would equal is 66 gF/mm / 55 gF/mm or on Brents V1 spreadsheet (old spring rates) 55 / 45.9 gF/mm
What am I missing on this? Since both setup sheets are using the soft springs, and the SRS1 layout, the actual spring tension is actually reverse (and far different) of what the setup sheets show.
Also has anyone worked out what the rough oil weight equivalent is in the new dampers to what the #6 dampers are?
So I was looking at Mike Gee's and Andrew's Evo 2 setups and playing around with that setup on an Evo 1. One thing that didn't make sense from the setup sheets that I need some help on is the overall spring rate that is listed?
Going off Andrew Mowery's setup (knowing dampening is different between the Evo1 dampers and the new ones) the damper position and spring screw position don't equal or match the rates listed. Andrews setup sheet shows a 4mm spring gap, 1mm Damper setup, and lists at 55.0F, and a 6mm/1mm 68.4 R . Going off Brent's (V2) spreadsheet and other charts on what that would equal is 66 gF/mm / 55 gF/mm or on Brents V1 spreadsheet (old spring rates) 55 / 45.9 gF/mm
What am I missing on this? Since both setup sheets are using the soft springs, and the SRS1 layout, the actual spring tension is actually reverse (and far different) of what the setup sheets show.
Also has anyone worked out what the rough oil weight equivalent is in the new dampers to what the #6 dampers are?
03-15-2015, 08:39 PM
#8205
Hey Guys,
So I was looking at Mike Gee's and Andrew's Evo 2 setups and playing around with that setup on an Evo 1. One thing that didn't make sense from the setup sheets that I need some help on is the overall spring rate that is listed?
Going off Andrew Mowery's setup (knowing dampening is different between the Evo1 dampers and the new ones) the damper position and spring screw position don't equal or match the rates listed. Andrews setup sheet shows a 4mm spring gap, 1mm Damper setup, and lists at 55.0F, and a 6mm/1mm 68.4 R . Going off Brent's (V2) spreadsheet and other charts on what that would equal is 66 gF/mm / 55 gF/mm or on Brents V1 spreadsheet (old spring rates) 55 / 45.9 gF/mm
What am I missing on this? Since both setup sheets are using the soft springs, and the SRS1 layout, the actual spring tension is actually reverse of what the setup sheets show.
Also has anyone worked out what the rough oil weight equivalent is in the new dampers to what the #6 dampers are?
So I was looking at Mike Gee's and Andrew's Evo 2 setups and playing around with that setup on an Evo 1. One thing that didn't make sense from the setup sheets that I need some help on is the overall spring rate that is listed?
Going off Andrew Mowery's setup (knowing dampening is different between the Evo1 dampers and the new ones) the damper position and spring screw position don't equal or match the rates listed. Andrews setup sheet shows a 4mm spring gap, 1mm Damper setup, and lists at 55.0F, and a 6mm/1mm 68.4 R . Going off Brent's (V2) spreadsheet and other charts on what that would equal is 66 gF/mm / 55 gF/mm or on Brents V1 spreadsheet (old spring rates) 55 / 45.9 gF/mm
What am I missing on this? Since both setup sheets are using the soft springs, and the SRS1 layout, the actual spring tension is actually reverse of what the setup sheets show.
Also has anyone worked out what the rough oil weight equivalent is in the new dampers to what the #6 dampers are?
500 oil is fairly close to the #6 dampers. You will never find an exact match though because of the basic differences in the damper designs