hanulec

iTrader: (28)

are your radio steering end points at greater than 100? my airtronics m12 is set to 140/145%

SavageCanadian

iTrader: (60)

Yep, I run a m12 as well there both around 140

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

the only other thing i can think of is that your servo is too far forward and the links are hitting when your near full lock. this mostly happens right in front of the servo.

i've added 1.75mm to my servo (sanwa sgr-bls) between the am24 to allow me to move the rack back w/o any interference.

another hint is to make sure your rack is centered. i use a caliper to measure the difference from the bearings to bulkhead. it is about 10mm on each side.

these are the only other ideas i have...

SavageCanadian

iTrader: (60)

Thanks for the tips, I changed the ballstud location on the hubs and now I get 19 both sides at max dr and 17 at 90%

dumper

iTrader: (1)

When Hanulec was working on my rod, my steering tie rod that is, we did two things. One, he had me raise the mounting point on the servo arm. Two he had me lower the mounting point on the rack. Doing both of those things gave me more throw.

KHoff7

iTrader: (5)

Should have had Arvin Nano work on it.

dumper

iTrader: (1)

Oh no, please don't start this again! I don't have another 2 days to dedicate to the awesomeness of Arvin Nano.....

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Here's another idea ...New A700 upgrade: 4mm carbon fiber shaft(3.5grams) from E. Wippler... The lightest shaft ever.....

chrispys

What's are the differences between GD2 diff and current diff. ?

malkiy

iTrader: (10)

GD2 holds a larger volume of oil and uses larger gears, xray gears, to make it smoother. There are other differences like the optional pinned outdrives and the ability to bleed excess oil.

josecarlo1129

iTrader: (1)

^Ditto. The GD (1st gen) if installed/build correctly (my way: combined plastic and metal satellite gears) is smooth as silk & indestructible, hence making it superior with the release of GD ver 2 bundled with the pinned outdrives. This update is sick. Another superb job from Oleg and co.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Any build tips on filling up the GD2?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I don't have a totally un-messy way of filling the diff yet. These parts work best so far--

Mcmaster 5233K113 Clear—Metric PVC Tube

Mcmaster 7510A653 0.34 oz. (10 cc) Regular Syringes with Luer Lock Tip

Getting the same model syringe but w/ a bigger volume would work better.
Making your PVC tube as small as possible also works.
I don't have a proper on/off valve so I can build pressure in the system first. Basically the setup was-

0. removing set screws from diff ends
1. associated diff oil bottle w/ cap off
2. short tube to one diff end
3. short tube from other diff end to syringe
4. action the syringe until fluid starts flow
5. wait for air to stop flowing.
6. take tubes off diff and install set screws.

hana166

iTrader: (2)

That sounds brilliant. So you've got a bottle of fluid at the bottom, diff in the middle and a syringe on top to suck the air out from the top, pulling the fluid in from the bottom so there's no air left/perfect bleed? Genius, so easy!

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

maybe we can come up with a new term -- "that is so Oleg!"
he is the innovator here!