BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Yeah thats about how much my track slows down too. Crazy how 20 deg can make that much of a difference. Even with the hot track temps I was happy with how my car ran, no overheated tires or push, just can't run the same lap times as earlier in the day.

But okay, sounds like I was on the right track then. Only thing I do different is run tire tweak at all times of the day, never had much luck with anything else lol.

Its open tire at my track, I run Sorex 36's with a SJR insert. Should I try something else for an insert? I know Sorex 40's work well, but I don't have any currently.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

With the higher temps it helps to 'bake' the tweak in. Avoid heading out with greasy tires. The SJR inserts are like gold! Stick with that tire/insert package but look at other wheels that give you more air gap. A little trial and error. But a couple of measurements with a caliper will quickly sort out which of the wheels can give you sufficient inner diameter to clear our suspension cups (po1/po2) and an outer diameter that will provide more air gap. The hard wheel vs. soft wheel - i tend to like the hard wheels. The soft wheels in higher temps tend to get mushy.

Even a 10 degree swing can send a track to ice.

radioriodio

Hello to all,
here is another question:

how do you set your ESC in modified?

What are the differences respect to the regulation of the ESC for a classic touring?

For example, I use a HW 2.1 with a GM5.5 and 8.4 FDR,
in your opinion what would be a good base setup that does not put in crisis the car's traction?

P.S.: sorry for my google translator english

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

By "baking the tweak in" do you mean using warmers and then letting the tires cool down before running? Or hitting the track with the tires warmed up also? What about cleaning the tires, do the same thing I normally do, or should that change for the heat also?

I'll have to measure all my wheels to see which gives me the most air gap.

Are you running on asphalt or carpet?

I run the same esc, I usually start with the punch on 3 and go from there depending on the track layout and traction. I'd reccomend you run some drag brake too, 20% is a good starting point.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Yes - use tire warmers to get tweak into rubber. Worse case, air dry is fine but if available, use the warmers.

Based on how your track program runs you might not have a chance to go from the warmers right on the track. That said, they will cool, but what you are after is getting the tweak into the tire and not greasy feel.

Clean tires is usually a good idea. Motor spray is a bit rough on the rubber. SXT Tire cleaner or even just the sauce you are using and rag works fine.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Do you have an opinion on WD40 as a cleaner? I've tried it from time to time, but couldn't really tell.

-Mike

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I've only used motor spray (carpet) or buggy grip/lg1 (asphalt) as cleaner..

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Depends on the tire brand - Sweep tires vs. Sorex vs. Solaris vs. Tamiya vs. Ride all react differently to various cleaners. Usually stick to using the same chemicals that I plan on eventually using for sauce.

We have a very unique scenario on the west coast - many of the tracks dont have spec tires so you have to be ready to go fast with whatever will make you the fastest.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Tamiya, haha.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

There are several that arent on that list that you could have a chuckle about....

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Details...

radioriodio

I'm running on asphalt every week.

Dragobrat

iTrader: (11)

Hi,I have 2x questions,thanks.

- Has the a700 proven itself to be durable running in mod class?

- What is the best product to use for lubricating the alloy right angle gears?

I have an EXL and was considering buying the parts needed to convert to transverse motor config to run mod but didnt quite trust that the alloy gears and driveline would be reliable long term.
At the moment I lube the gears with wurth synthetic silicone spray.

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

I use self cleaning, wax lubricant (White lightning Clean Ride) that you would use on bike chains. Was suggested to me by another local and works quite well.

http://www.whitelightningco.com/products/

hana166

iTrader: (2)

First I would try inline for modified and see how it goes. It may not be necessary to use transverse. Gears are all hardened steel, not alloy, including transverse bevel gears. Alloy carriers on spool and diffs only. I reckon this car has the most robust driveline of all. Get the spur dampener.
Still on the original A700 drivetrain after nearly two years with the exception of new rear axles and maybe ST16/17 every 6-8 months.