Warpspeed Demon and Demon 2
#331
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Fuzzy, when in doubt make sure your droop settings are even left to right when you pull up on the towers and hold onto the wheels. Sometimes the measurements on the gauge cannot be trusted and you have to do it when the car's set to go. As for your chassis brace deal, try sanding out the inside of the brace with some sand paper to get it to seat better, and give it a little lubrication with something. Do a double-check on everything, including shock length. If that still doesn't help, un-bolt the top-deck and take off the tires and lay the chassis on something flat. Push down on each corner to make sure it's not twisted, it should not be. If it is, loosen any screws to the suspension and diff cases (don't take them out) and let the car settle out. Something may have been over-torqued during assembly. Like howard said I have serious doubts it is the chassis but its good to double check everything.
#332
fuzzy make sure the shock towers are secured correctly because i had that problem with the screw pulling out of the diff cases i had wierd tweak sittings i kept getting different chassis hights i noticed this when i picked the car and i felt the shock tower rock. take a look that might be your problem.
stephen i will post it after this weekend i am going to try it one more time.
stephen i will post it after this weekend i am going to try it one more time.
#333
Fuzzy,
Tweak on a double deck car...... A double deck car can and will get tweaked after impact, build, etc.... Usually is an easy fix.
1. remove the wheels
2. remove the shocks from the arms
3. set chassis on flat surface (table-put board)
4. remove all four screws from the top deck
5. push down on the front and rear shock tower
6. reinstall the four screws for the top deck in an "X" fashion, but do NOT tighten them down.
7. once all screws are in place snug them down in the same "X" fashion
I recommend doing this after every run, but that is just me and I am extremely picky with my chassis set up.
If you car is still tweaked. I would say check:
loosen and resecure diff cases
loosen and resecure shock towers
check droop with shocks disconnected (A MUST)
check shock length and rebound
After "ALL" of this and your car is still tweaked....... Step away and have someone else take a quick peek. Could be something simple you overlooked. It's easy to do.
I hope this did not give a bad taste about Warpspeed to you. The product is superior and works EXTREMELY well. Check all of the above out and I certain you will get it. If you are from Ohio I would be more than happy to look at it for you or you can send it to me Worst case scenario....
Tweak on a double deck car...... A double deck car can and will get tweaked after impact, build, etc.... Usually is an easy fix.
1. remove the wheels
2. remove the shocks from the arms
3. set chassis on flat surface (table-put board)
4. remove all four screws from the top deck
5. push down on the front and rear shock tower
6. reinstall the four screws for the top deck in an "X" fashion, but do NOT tighten them down.
7. once all screws are in place snug them down in the same "X" fashion
I recommend doing this after every run, but that is just me and I am extremely picky with my chassis set up.
If you car is still tweaked. I would say check:
loosen and resecure diff cases
loosen and resecure shock towers
check droop with shocks disconnected (A MUST)
check shock length and rebound
After "ALL" of this and your car is still tweaked....... Step away and have someone else take a quick peek. Could be something simple you overlooked. It's easy to do.
I hope this did not give a bad taste about Warpspeed to you. The product is superior and works EXTREMELY well. Check all of the above out and I certain you will get it. If you are from Ohio I would be more than happy to look at it for you or you can send it to me Worst case scenario....
#334
Speedxl,
If you haven't already. Get the Warpspeed diff cases. You will "NEVER" again have the problem of a screw coming loose from the diff housings. The diff cases are money
If you haven't already. Get the Warpspeed diff cases. You will "NEVER" again have the problem of a screw coming loose from the diff housings. The diff cases are money
#335
forty6 and others,
Here are a few pics of my car with the milled top deck installed on the tub chassis.
Here are a few pics of my car with the milled top deck installed on the tub chassis.
#336
Top deck pic #2..
#337
Top deck pic #3. U will notice that I did have to modify slightly to allow for the heat-sink motor mount. Quick hit with a dremel. Not a big deal. With the Warpspeed kit this is not an issue because of the motor clamp Vicot designed.... Hmmmmm. Maybe I will get one
#338
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
customer service
I don't care if my car flips over backwards going down the straight, i'm driving Warpspeed from now on. No exceptions! Victor called me out of the blue yesterday afternoon because he heard I was having some problems with my setup and offered to help. Customer service doesn't get any better than that. You won't see that level of service from Losi or Associated. Anyway, I did what he told me to do and it seemed to help.
1) Set the ride height with the chassis/diff braces unscrewed. Then screw chassis/diff braces back on and recheck ride height. Ride height was the same with or without braces. This ruled out whether the braces were twisting the chassis.
2) Then I checked the tweak using the method Victor told me. I checked the tweak of the front only with the rear of the chassis on the stationary board. The shock collars needed a 1/4 of a turn to set tweak @ zero (what ever amount & direction you turn one collar, do the opposite to the other collar).
3) I turned the car around and checked the rear tweak w/the front of the chassis on the stationary board. I didn't have touch anything here. The bubble was dead nuts center.
4) I turned the car around again, this time with all four tires on the boards and the rears on the stationary. Using only the rear shocks to adjust tweak, I set it to zero with a 1/2 turn of each collar.
5) After all of this, I rechecked the ride height. It was at a pretty level 5mm across the board.
The shock collars are still not equal, but the car itself seems to be. I guess that's what matters. Thanks for your concern and help Victor.
P.S. Rob Love, I race at the Gate. I pit next to Pete & Dan Medved and usually behind you and Mo.
1) Set the ride height with the chassis/diff braces unscrewed. Then screw chassis/diff braces back on and recheck ride height. Ride height was the same with or without braces. This ruled out whether the braces were twisting the chassis.
2) Then I checked the tweak using the method Victor told me. I checked the tweak of the front only with the rear of the chassis on the stationary board. The shock collars needed a 1/4 of a turn to set tweak @ zero (what ever amount & direction you turn one collar, do the opposite to the other collar).
3) I turned the car around and checked the rear tweak w/the front of the chassis on the stationary board. I didn't have touch anything here. The bubble was dead nuts center.
4) I turned the car around again, this time with all four tires on the boards and the rears on the stationary. Using only the rear shocks to adjust tweak, I set it to zero with a 1/2 turn of each collar.
5) After all of this, I rechecked the ride height. It was at a pretty level 5mm across the board.
The shock collars are still not equal, but the car itself seems to be. I guess that's what matters. Thanks for your concern and help Victor.
P.S. Rob Love, I race at the Gate. I pit next to Pete & Dan Medved and usually behind you and Mo.
#339
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Vic and RBLOve,
I am gonna bite the bullit and buy another D1 soon and build a Modified car!!! This is for after the Champs. If I really want to get good at this whole RC Racing thing, I think I had better start running modified sedan and really learn throttle control and how to maximize my choice of lines.
I do alright in throttle control compared to a year ago-but you know you can always be a lot better (i.e. Doseck, Cyrul ,Dumas......)
So Vic-I think I am going to hang onto my black D1 and make it a modified car and my new Ice Blue D1 will be for stock!!! I'll call ya later to hash out the details.
Fuzzy-Vic is the Man -isnt he? Awesome to work with and awesome to talk shop with too.
THanks,
Ray
I am gonna bite the bullit and buy another D1 soon and build a Modified car!!! This is for after the Champs. If I really want to get good at this whole RC Racing thing, I think I had better start running modified sedan and really learn throttle control and how to maximize my choice of lines.
I do alright in throttle control compared to a year ago-but you know you can always be a lot better (i.e. Doseck, Cyrul ,Dumas......)
So Vic-I think I am going to hang onto my black D1 and make it a modified car and my new Ice Blue D1 will be for stock!!! I'll call ya later to hash out the details.
Fuzzy-Vic is the Man -isnt he? Awesome to work with and awesome to talk shop with too.
THanks,
Ray
#340
there ya go go ray true player
buy another one for the team.
buy another one for the team.
#341
Tech Champion
iTrader: (5)
Hey with Doseck running modified Touring on foam tires at my track-why wouldnt I use this opportunity to learn??? OH-then theres also Blackstock and chicky and Love also running modified. I'd be an idiot to not run. I am already scrambling parts togethers and starting to build the diffs, etc. I have about 50% of the parts i need!!
I cannot wait. I even have some handwound Putnam 8 and 9 turn arms to run as well! SOme never even run. Too bad they are all Ti based-not KR.
I cannot wait. I even have some handwound Putnam 8 and 9 turn arms to run as well! SOme never even run. Too bad they are all Ti based-not KR.
#343
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,854
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Brian....what about Axiom? Haven't they "Got Motor".......
#344
Tech Champion
iTrader: (264)
Hey guys, finally got to run my Demon 1 on a big track this weekend. Car is extremelyt fast and responsive.
Here's my setup from this weekend.
Oh and I finished 4th in the B of Stock and 5th in the A of Mod.
Front Shocks
Yellow Spring
60 wt oil
#3 pistion
Outside on tower
Inside on arm
Camber link
inside upper on tower
Standard Tower
Front Blocks
F-0
R block
4 deg Losi Castor
.060 bump steer on spindle
tc3 rack
Rear Shocks
purple spring
#3 Piston
50 wt oil
outside on tower
outside on arm
Camber link
inside upper on tower
ouside on AE hubs
Rear Blocks
2+2
F Block
hubs centered
no rear bumper
Front Sway bar .63 (stock)
Tires
Stock
TRC plaid 26mm at 57mm
TRC purple 26mm at 57mm
Mod
TRC purple 26mm at 57mm
TRC tan 26mm at 57mm
Jack the Gripper traction compound
1/4 front
3/8 rear
D5 10x1 at 100/29
Monster Pro at 100/28
needed the car to arc more in mod but I am working on it.
Here's my setup from this weekend.
Oh and I finished 4th in the B of Stock and 5th in the A of Mod.
Front Shocks
Yellow Spring
60 wt oil
#3 pistion
Outside on tower
Inside on arm
Camber link
inside upper on tower
Standard Tower
Front Blocks
F-0
R block
4 deg Losi Castor
.060 bump steer on spindle
tc3 rack
Rear Shocks
purple spring
#3 Piston
50 wt oil
outside on tower
outside on arm
Camber link
inside upper on tower
ouside on AE hubs
Rear Blocks
2+2
F Block
hubs centered
no rear bumper
Front Sway bar .63 (stock)
Tires
Stock
TRC plaid 26mm at 57mm
TRC purple 26mm at 57mm
Mod
TRC purple 26mm at 57mm
TRC tan 26mm at 57mm
Jack the Gripper traction compound
1/4 front
3/8 rear
D5 10x1 at 100/29
Monster Pro at 100/28
needed the car to arc more in mod but I am working on it.
#345
Tech Regular
RC OLD MAN
Not bad for the first time out. Nice Job.
Welcome to Team WARPSPEED.
Welcome to Team WARPSPEED.