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Old 11-09-2008, 06:16 AM
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Default Losi eight 2.0 W/losi brushless conversion

hello,i was woundering if any have done the losi brushless conversrion with the Losi 2.0 buggy and what are your thoughts ? Does the losi mount except diffrent brushless motors(neu brushless)? I was also woundering if the coversion leaves a bunch of left over unused holes in the chasis. I know they make an eight e but from what i understand it is the 1.0 version and i would like to have the updated version and be able to put what ever motor and e.s.c i choose.Thanks for all the info ahead of time .bert
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:39 AM
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1 fellow did in the '8E' thread, just posted on it too

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Old 11-10-2008, 04:10 PM
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Here's some stuff I posted on our local forum.

The Losi conversion with the Losi Xcelorin system is by far the classiest electric buggy on the market right now. The esc has it's own matching mounting bracket with a semi soft mounting system and they provide a special plate to cover the flywheel and spur gear slots in the chassis. As far as I know they are also the only kit to provide a motor rest to take the stress off of the diff mount/motor mount during hard slaps. I think it's safe to say that the new system from Losi is going to work fine. Once you figure out not to use the end points on your radio and to control everything through the esc it works great. I chose the 1700kv system on 4s and it is way more than you would ever need in a buggy and I suspect that it would also be a good choice for truggy. I've got about an hour of track time on it now without a single hiccup other than initial radio compatibility issues mentioned and the pinion gear coming off. Unless you want to notch a small groove in the flat spot on the motor shaft, I suggest you find a gear with a larger grub screw than the one they provide. You can't get enough torque on the 1.5mm that comes with it. I just grooved the shaft and super glued the tiny little grub screw in place and it's holding together fine now but I recommend finding an appropriately pitched pinion with a 1/16" or larger grub screw. Next mod will be a single strap running front to back(gorilla strap style) instead of the 3 running side to side.

I think I'm going to settle on 80% throttle with the lowest motor timing and high start power settings. The brakes are set at 30% with no drag brake and I used the default dead zone setting to avoid unwanted brake input at neutral. They still need to go through another version or two of firmware before everything is dialed in my opinion but it is more than worthy right now. I think I'll be getting 15min run times safely on 4800's and suspect that I could run 20 if I had to. I can't wait until they come out with some even higher power density lipos here in the near future. Soon 30 mains without a pit stop will be a reality.

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More good news about my 2.0 conversion. I was able to run another weekend of racing without any problems other than a brief thermal. The fan that barely worked from the factory finally gave up I guess but I put a tiny little novak fan on and after a 17 and a half min run in the A main, the temps were perfect. I'm guessing that the motor was around 160. I could leave my hand on it for a few seconds and nothing smelled funny. The esc was just above warm, maybe 130 and the batteries were even cooler. Those $80 4800 4s Zippy r-spec packs are awesome but they have been removed from the website as far as I could tell last night.

As far as handling goes I was extremely impressed. Elliot will tell you that he hadn't had time to work on his MP9 set up but I was able to duke it out with him for multiple laps on several occasions yesterday and he ended up winning the cheese. I qualified 5th behind Will, Elliot, Wayne and Robbie and for the first few laps we were all within like 6 seconds of each other. Great racing and proof that Losi's new 1/8 brushless gear is up to the task.
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Old 11-10-2008, 04:17 PM
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I'm not sure if the Losi conversion is compatible with other motors. It uses the metric bottom motor mount screws from a 1/8 nitro to mount the electric motor to the sliding mount system. They may be larger than most electric motor mount screws, 4mm I think.
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Old 11-10-2008, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by edfmaniac
I'm not sure if the Losi conversion is compatible with other motors. It uses the metric bottom motor mount screws from a 1/8 nitro to mount the electric motor to the sliding mount system. They may be larger than most electric motor mount screws, 4mm I think.
The Losi motor mount is compatible with Medusa, Novak and Nue motors. I use a Medusa motor with 3mm screws.

The compatibility issue is with the shaft length of the motor you are using. The Losi motor has a longer shaft than other motors. The Losi motor mount is wider than other mounts. The pinion does not fit all the way on other motors.

I fixed the problem by using an RC designs motor mount. Not quite as thick as the Losi mount. The pinion fits perfectly.
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Old 11-11-2008, 08:34 AM
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Once you figure out not to use the end points on your radio and to control everything through the esc it works great.
What makes you say that? I use EPA to adjust every single car I have, electric and nitro, including my 8ight E. I wouldn't discount EPA as a solution, when it can be so effective. When I race, I adjust my EPA on my brakes based on the condition of the track. If I had to reprogram my ESC every time, that'd be a pain! The Programing card that comes with the Xcelerin ESC is convenient, but I wouldn't depend on it for all changes... not when I can just turn my brakes up or down while I'm on the driver's stand.
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
What makes you say that? I use EPA to adjust every single car I have, electric and nitro, including my 8ight E. I wouldn't discount EPA as a solution, when it can be so effective. When I race, I adjust my EPA on my brakes based on the condition of the track. If I had to reprogram my ESC every time, that'd be a pain! The Programing card that comes with the Xcelerin ESC is convenient, but I wouldn't depend on it for all changes... not when I can just turn my brakes up or down while I'm on the driver's stand.
If you were following the thread about braking issues with the 1/8 Losi system, not making end point adjustments after calibration is a recommended solution. I'm sure this will be addressed when they come out with new firmware. I agree that moving endpoints should not effect the esc programming but it seems to have fixed the problem some of us were having.
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:02 AM
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Can you post a link? I'm curious...
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Old 11-12-2008, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
What makes you say that? I use EPA to adjust every single car I have, electric and nitro, including my 8ight E. I wouldn't discount EPA as a solution, when it can be so effective. When I race, I adjust my EPA on my brakes based on the condition of the track. If I had to reprogram my ESC every time, that'd be a pain! The Programing card that comes with the Xcelerin ESC is convenient, but I wouldn't depend on it for all changes... not when I can just turn my brakes up or down while I'm on the driver's stand.
Electric motors and escs run most efficiently at full thottle, so it is better to adjust the feel of the throttle through gearing and punch control. However, if your components aren't running hot and runtime is not an issue, its perfectly fine to use the epa adjustments.
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Old 11-12-2008, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by R40Victim
Can you post a link? I'm curious...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ak-issues.html
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:33 AM
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Found it!
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