alecladanga

iTrader: (5)

That'll be part #305431. you may check the link below for confirmation:

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20Transmission



By the way, does anyone know which aftermarket titanium screw set is best for the 009?

touringdriver

iTrader: (16)

raced my 009 this weekend with the 1.9 conversion kit installed. plus i tried the 87t spur on my 13.5 tekin, been racing in the past with the 78t spur. didn't care for the 87, dropped down to a 84t, still wasn't pleased. went to ole faithful 78t, and wow! that conversion kit really brought my car to life with the 78t. well pleased.

BetterHalf

What spur gear you run doesn't really matter... all that matters is what FDR you are running. The spur gear by itself, doesn't tell you the whole story of how you are geared.. FDR = spur, divided by pinion, times internal drive ratio. Find the proper FDR for your particular motor, combined with your timing settings, combined with what works best for your particular track.

maxg123456

Hi, I race indoors in the UK on a low/medium grip carpet track. My car is an Xray 009 with Sorex 28R tires.

Its summer here and i'm having strange handling issues and i've come to the conclusion that the heat is causing the problem and has been for some time. My car also has a lot of power, even with a 13.5 because of having a SP esc with the latest firmware which also exagerates the problem.

When I take out the front screws from the top deck (which you're not really supposed to do as per Xray manual on carpet) the car has horrendous snap oversteer on entry and mid corner, which is why i'm also sure tire temps have hit the roof, because it's no where near as bad in the winter. Even with all screws in barring the front post, the car is better but the problem is less. General setup changes to the car don't solve it, unless I stick on new tires that last 2 runs and then the snap returns!

My tire temps are - FrLeft 83F - FrRight 86F --- RrLeft 83F - RrRight 83F.
To me this seems too high for Sorex 28R tires. I want to stick with this tire, as a lot use it at my club and at the big events its the tire of choice. What setup changes would drastically cool the tires down, other than changing the tire to a higher temp version like 32Rs?

Capt'N_Slow

iTrader: (10)

We run Jaco Blue (32) as our spec tire on carpet. Depending on the track layout I can get my FrRight into the mid 90s without to much fade happening. Track temp is usually between 20-25deg for me.

On carpet the fronts usually take a beating. I would try putting 32s in the front and see how it goes. People at the club have tried racing 13.5 boosted on 32s all around and usually end up spinning out or creating a drift machine.

Team Sorex 28R Cool Weather Tire (72-84 Degrees)
Team Sorex 32R Warm Weather Tire (81-96 Degrees)
Team Sorex 36R Hot Weather Tire (92+ Degrees)

JKL1031

iTrader: (5)

I use 36R with no problems on carpet. I dont check tire temps. But we have no A/C. Its usually 110F inside, so...

michael.branth

Hi I had my car pretty much where I wanted it last night at my local club.

The only issue was grip rolling on corner entry , high speed corners slowing and entering a corner. Has any one any ideas on how to cure this? I thought of anti-dive/ raising roll centre but do not want to lose the steering I have for the rest of the corner.

I have recently installed a gear diff and have 60wt oil in which is very thin, if this was thicker , say 2000, do you think the diff would push the car more, rather than letting it turn in so hard?

On Another note I started with sorex 28r's and its was much worse, not the snap over steering but biting and turning over. I went to sweep 32 and they where much better. Also turning dual rate down to 30% helped. Paul lemiuex runs upto 40% so this is still okay. You could try that to take some aggression out of the car

cheers in advance,

M

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

I'm assuming you are talking about needing more rear end traction on corner entry? If so have you tried adding more droop to the rear end? Also maybe changing to a lighter swaybar on the rear.

Sweep 36 is plenty of traction at all the tracks I run. The only time I have ever considered going to a lower shore rating was in the middle of winter. But then again, I'm here in sunny southern Cal. It may be colder in your region.

maxg123456

Hi, I thought Paul Lemiuex ran upto 30% expo. Im sure he said to me he ran full DR always. The best I can get a gear diff running is with 150cst oil LOL. I find thats more stable on throttle and it doesn't really make the car worse off throttle.

mattyau

iTrader: (7)

To run the closed composite ball joints #302661 do you need to have these size ball ends
Ball end 4.9mm with thread 8mm for the front #302654
Ball end 4.9mm with thread 6mm for the rear #302653

Tho when you build the kit per manual for eu spec there
14mm screws on the front and 10mm on the rear so im guessing the ball ends they would be the same length.

Nilks

Hello everybody,

As I am fairly new with electric onroad (only going into my 2nd season now), I don't have any experience with re-building ball-diffs. Does anybody have any advice? And what grease to use?

Tjello

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMu6Fu3orI

Nilks

Another question:

I am trying to flip the belts, but I have a slight problem. I am using the original Xray LiPo Balancing Chassis Weights (#309860), and the inner weights are in the way of the main belt if I try to flip the belts.

Have anyone tried flipping the belts with the original chassis and the LiPo Balancing Chassis Weights?

michael.branth

Hi I want to run my t2 009 with 20 tooth centre pulleys and 38 Tooth diff pulleys ( std motor position) could some let me know what belts I need as I am totally confused!!!!

thanks in advance,

M

jay m

iTrader: (16)

iv converted to 20 tooth middle and 38 tooth diffs my my oo9 and the belts are the same as my t3 belts hope that helps a little