1/10 R/C F1's...Pics, Discussions, Whatever...
#5956
Tech Adept
No doubt they are good drivers, but I would like to see the cars and get the setups on the HPI F10. The cars are generally avoided by the F1 rubber crowd here in the US. Even if we have to get the whole Exotek chassis and additional HPI parts, I would be curious to see the cars and setups, especially since they are running 17.5 brushless, faster than what we generally run.
My car was very similar to Shin's. I'll post some pictures ASAP.
#5957
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
I have no real purpose for this, but isn't that what it's all about anyway?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBC1_C7v_GI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBC1_C7v_GI
#5958
How are you getting your cars to stay planted? These long narrow chassis makes it difficult to not torque roll like a mofo going into a corner. As it sits, box stock f104 pro, stock foams. Ideas? Even tried CA glue on the Outside edge of the front tires to try and get it to push, but it didn't help.
#5959
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
How are you getting your cars to stay planted? These long narrow chassis makes it difficult to not torque roll like a mofo going into a corner. As it sits, box stock f104 pro, stock foams. Ideas? Even tried CA glue on the Outside edge of the front tires to try and get it to push, but it didn't help.
Especially on the 104 Pro, as it has a firm t-bar
Smaller dia tires
Super soft t-bar, or better yet X1 conversion will improve the handling of that car
#5960
How are you getting your cars to stay planted? These long narrow chassis makes it difficult to not torque roll like a mofo going into a corner. As it sits, box stock f104 pro, stock foams. Ideas? Even tried CA glue on the Outside edge of the front tires to try and get it to push, but it didn't help.
#5962
As of right now I'm trying to bring the class around, and generate interest. We are thinking rules of 21.5, 2s, blinky, and rubber. That being said its a well prepped indoor carpet smooth surface. Especially during our weekend races, we will see upwards of 3,000 laps on the surface, developing a very nice groove.
I'm going to change to a rubber tire, and try to showcase this even more. Which rubber, and what is a good starting point to have the car at, knowing the abbé conditions, and trying to not traction roll? I can fine tune a push or on/of power, but the car needs to be drivable first.
I'm going to change to a rubber tire, and try to showcase this even more. Which rubber, and what is a good starting point to have the car at, knowing the abbé conditions, and trying to not traction roll? I can fine tune a push or on/of power, but the car needs to be drivable first.
#5964
Well, which to start with? I don't know if I need to plant the rear more or not, as it's going to be completely different all together.
#5966
#5967
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
Setup questions.
Hello Ya'll, I have a F103 15th Anniversary on a paved race circuit.
How many of you run your friction pads with no lubricant? I've noticed most of the guys here in Japan like to run it dry....
I guess running it dry helps to make the rear pod to be loose as possible. Should I try running a lubricant that will make the pads more slippery or just keep it dry. What are your friction plate settings?
Shock oil, spring and piston settings. Currently running, 3 hole, 55 weight, yellow spring. What do you run?
Also, the guy at the track said to switch from the rubber o-ring setup and move toward the pivot ball. What is the difference in tuning with a pivot ball vs. o-ring. Which ones do you run?
There are two types of front suspensions, the regular plastic and the carbon reinforced plastic. Under what conditions should I run them?
Since, the F103 has a full upper and lower carbon fibre deck. How can I produce more chassis flex with such a stiff chassis setup? Can I remove the top deck and replace it with the optional half deck? This will in-turn open up and free up the front end for additional flex, is this what I want for on road pavement racing?
My track is running 17.5, whats a good gear range? The motor has a 135 mm rotor... More torque than rpm..
Any other tips and suggestions would be great, or even direct me to some websites would also be helpful.
How many of you run your friction pads with no lubricant? I've noticed most of the guys here in Japan like to run it dry....
I guess running it dry helps to make the rear pod to be loose as possible. Should I try running a lubricant that will make the pads more slippery or just keep it dry. What are your friction plate settings?
Shock oil, spring and piston settings. Currently running, 3 hole, 55 weight, yellow spring. What do you run?
Also, the guy at the track said to switch from the rubber o-ring setup and move toward the pivot ball. What is the difference in tuning with a pivot ball vs. o-ring. Which ones do you run?
There are two types of front suspensions, the regular plastic and the carbon reinforced plastic. Under what conditions should I run them?
Since, the F103 has a full upper and lower carbon fibre deck. How can I produce more chassis flex with such a stiff chassis setup? Can I remove the top deck and replace it with the optional half deck? This will in-turn open up and free up the front end for additional flex, is this what I want for on road pavement racing?
My track is running 17.5, whats a good gear range? The motor has a 135 mm rotor... More torque than rpm..
Any other tips and suggestions would be great, or even direct me to some websites would also be helpful.
#5968
Hello,
My 15th Anniversary runs with dry friction pads, F103 short top deck, o-ring setup, 3hole/30wt tamiya softest gold springs and carbon front arms.
Can't explain why, but that's how I run it.
My 15th Anniversary runs with dry friction pads, F103 short top deck, o-ring setup, 3hole/30wt tamiya softest gold springs and carbon front arms.
Can't explain why, but that's how I run it.
#5969
Guys, i'm looking for a F201 speed tuned version chassis, if you got one please PM me!