Removing epoxy ramp on crankshaft...
#16
Well, I took off all the epoxy that came loose (due to running petroleum based after run oil) Made sure there was no signs of residue left, out her back together and fired it right up. So far I haven't noticed any difference but I'm going to try it at the track this weekend. Will update then.
#17
the epoxy did not come lose from the after run oil. it wasnt set right in the first place.
i epoxy all my 2 stroke race sleds.
real race cars.
if the surfice was not prep the correct way, the epoxy will not set correctly.
i epoxy all my 2 stroke race sleds.
real race cars.
if the surfice was not prep the correct way, the epoxy will not set correctly.
#18
It happened to two of the same motors I had ( Max Power M5B). Spoke to Jim Hottinger himself at Fusion Motor Sports / Novarossi USA and he was the one who gave me that information backed by Novaorssi and JP racing themselves.
#19
LOL, $15,000 snowmobile engine vers a $400 rc engine. i would never use a soft set epoxy in a engine. use a good 2 part and shape it the way i want after it is set. 1211 is more a silicon based. never hardens completly.
#20
my gosh why would they install a filler that was not petroleum safe....... Nitromethane is very caustic , if ARO dislodges the filler I can only imagine what Nitromethane does to it.......... I have filled dozens of motors and use Petroleum based ARO all the time without issue.......... I think it was not installed properly...ARO melting it doesn't add up one bit, but I dont know for sure.................
Last edited by Maximo; 08-30-2008 at 08:51 PM.
#21
I'm going to be at the track to see if I notice anything different, performance wise. If so, does anyone know where I can go to to have it refilled?
#23
devcon.... nothing better
#24
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Going back the that snowmobile thing. At Polaris, we use to use a product called Z-spar. It was a 2 part epoxy made to repair boat hulls and it was designed to cure underwater. We use to use that to epoxy the 800 pro stock cases and never had a problem with it as far as oil/fuel deteriation. We did however glass bead, heat the case to 300 degrees and melt it into the case and we also used screws that we drilled and tapped to hold the epoxy in. We also tried using it to fill in hole in water jackets and had great success with it. The only thing it wouldn't hold up to was extreme heat from exhaust so it wasn't any good for altering exhaust flow. It would just break apart and be blown out. The beautiful part about it was it cut like butter and you could shape it anyway you wanted with no trouble unlike the slicone based fillers that are found in todays engines but whatever product you end up using, to be on the safe side, prep the surface to give it something to bite into and you shouldn't have any problems. the biggest feat is not keeping the fuel and oil from dissolving it, but keeping it attached to the surface. Good luck guys!!
#25
Well, I went to the track yesterday and fired em up and it went just fine. I'm not too much of a pro to notice the difference at all in the power department. Surprisingly I still had the same run-time without the epoxy. Thanks for everyone's comments.