KO Propo VFS-2000 ESC
08-25-2003, 06:44 PM
#1
KO Propo VFS-2000 ESC
I just got one of these speed controls recently with the setting adapter. It seem like a nice speedo, but don't know many people who run them. If you have any info or settings that seem to work please post them here.
Right now I'm running the default setting, does anyone have a set-up that works well for stock sedan?
Right now I'm running the default setting, does anyone have a set-up that works well for stock sedan?
08-25-2003, 07:01 PM
#3
Tech Regular
I run the VFS in my stock motor TC3.....VERY smooth ESC.
Find some directions for the keyence zero v extreme.....the information from keyence is better.......
Find some directions for the keyence zero v extreme.....the information from keyence is better.......
08-25-2003, 08:56 PM
#5
Originally posted by Kenneth Tan
Find needle in a haystack on the Japanese Tamiya Website. I remembered I saw some setups for the Tamiya labelled VFS.
Great ESC with zero problems... for now.
Find needle in a haystack on the Japanese Tamiya Website. I remembered I saw some setups for the Tamiya labelled VFS.
Great ESC with zero problems... for now.
I have a couple of set ups for it...but the Stock program works rather well for Motors 19T and up..
-Dave
08-25-2003, 10:21 PM
#6
e-mail KO Propo USA and Robert Morris will help you out. He provides awesome service.
08-26-2003, 12:02 AM
#7
I have a Ko Propo one and the tamiya TRF one, which are the same ESC.
they are very good and very reliable ESC.
Robert at Ko is a great help! Also Mr. Nakagawa is also a great help!
Ko propo products are nothing but the best!
they are very good and very reliable ESC.
Robert at Ko is a great help! Also Mr. Nakagawa is also a great help!
Ko propo products are nothing but the best!
08-26-2003, 01:33 AM
#8
Robert races at my local track, but I haven't got a chance to talk to him yet. Thanks for the advice guys.
Dave: I'll probably stick with the default setting for stock then, but how much would the setting change for mod? Most likely with a 7 or 8 turn.
Dave: I'll probably stick with the default setting for stock then, but how much would the setting change for mod? Most likely with a 7 or 8 turn.
08-27-2003, 12:41 PM
#9
I had a chance to talk to Robert Morris last night and he changed my setting for stock racing. My car felt really good, I had one of the fastest cars on the back straight and was just as fast if not faster than the others cars in the in field. I want to see how its going to work in mod eventually, but right now it works great in stock.
08-28-2003, 04:05 PM
#13
Tech Master
VFS-2000
Questions about the VFS I will do my best to answer. Understand that this ESC allows you to take your motor and ESC to its limits. Taking it to these limits will allow you to take it too far. The following is a good guide line to follow for stock and modified motors.
Using the VFS, you must use the super shotki diode that came with it. Almost every VFS that has blow was due to not using the super shotki diode.
What is the super shotki diode? This is basically a smaller version of the shotki diode but the power of TWO. Generally what damages the ESC is not the acceleration, but the braking. When you are braking, you create a short across the motor. This short will travel back to the ESC if the super shotki is not connected and will damage the ESC. For mod racing, I would recommend TWO super shotki diodes or three. If you do not have two super shotki diodes, you would need the equivalent of four shotki diodes.
The power up condensor that comes with your VFS prevents voltage drops due to quick acceleration. One is recommended for stock, TWo is recommended for modified motors.
Settings: Higher the number (frequency), more run time, efficiency, less punch. Lower the number (frequency), less run time, less efficiency, more punch and more wear on your motor. When setting your VFS look for these things; com wear, brush wear and run time. Discoloration in the com and brushes is a result of too low a setting in the drive frequyency, worng timing, or wrong brush set up.
Stock motors:
Generally, I like to start at about 14 on the THRT setting. This gives a good punch for stock motors. If you feel that you need more punch, move the frequency setting down. You can set where you would like to have this punch with the VFS. One of the neat things about this ESC. If you feel that you need this punch in the mid-range of the throttle, lower it at throttle postion 15 or 16. This will very with drivers. Try to get a feeling where you have your trigger on your transmitter while you drive. This will give you a good reference where to change the VFS throttle postion. When you are changing the frequency, try not to jump frequency numbers too much, meaning going from 10 to 13. This will give the feeling of a choppy on/off switch feel. The idea of this ESC was to be smooth and controllable. Go up/down gradually, 10-11-12-13, etc.
Modified motors:
The rule for modified motors is not to go below 2000Hz or a FREQ setting of 17. Doing so will give you more power, but you run the risk of overheating and damaging the ESC. Leaving the frequency at the stock setting of 17 will yeild more power but less runtime. At the ROAR electric nationals, we had a setting that started at 17 and ended at about 30-32 for sedans. This gives you plenty of power and gives you plenty of runtime. For 1/12 scale we kept the setting at 28 all the way across the throttle. In mod, paying attention to the brushes is the key. Discoloration will occur quickly if the frequency is set too low. Lower turn motors than 10T will also yeild more heat and quicker brush wear with a lower frequency. For motors below 10T, I would raise the lowest frequency to about 3000Hz or a throttle setting of 22.
If you need any other questions answered let me know. If you have a setting that works well for you, share it. Understand that settings will change with track conditions and layout. This is almost like working with another gear ratio to fine tune your car. Good luck.
Using the VFS, you must use the super shotki diode that came with it. Almost every VFS that has blow was due to not using the super shotki diode.
What is the super shotki diode? This is basically a smaller version of the shotki diode but the power of TWO. Generally what damages the ESC is not the acceleration, but the braking. When you are braking, you create a short across the motor. This short will travel back to the ESC if the super shotki is not connected and will damage the ESC. For mod racing, I would recommend TWO super shotki diodes or three. If you do not have two super shotki diodes, you would need the equivalent of four shotki diodes.
The power up condensor that comes with your VFS prevents voltage drops due to quick acceleration. One is recommended for stock, TWo is recommended for modified motors.
Settings: Higher the number (frequency), more run time, efficiency, less punch. Lower the number (frequency), less run time, less efficiency, more punch and more wear on your motor. When setting your VFS look for these things; com wear, brush wear and run time. Discoloration in the com and brushes is a result of too low a setting in the drive frequyency, worng timing, or wrong brush set up.
Stock motors:
Generally, I like to start at about 14 on the THRT setting. This gives a good punch for stock motors. If you feel that you need more punch, move the frequency setting down. You can set where you would like to have this punch with the VFS. One of the neat things about this ESC. If you feel that you need this punch in the mid-range of the throttle, lower it at throttle postion 15 or 16. This will very with drivers. Try to get a feeling where you have your trigger on your transmitter while you drive. This will give you a good reference where to change the VFS throttle postion. When you are changing the frequency, try not to jump frequency numbers too much, meaning going from 10 to 13. This will give the feeling of a choppy on/off switch feel. The idea of this ESC was to be smooth and controllable. Go up/down gradually, 10-11-12-13, etc.
Modified motors:
The rule for modified motors is not to go below 2000Hz or a FREQ setting of 17. Doing so will give you more power, but you run the risk of overheating and damaging the ESC. Leaving the frequency at the stock setting of 17 will yeild more power but less runtime. At the ROAR electric nationals, we had a setting that started at 17 and ended at about 30-32 for sedans. This gives you plenty of power and gives you plenty of runtime. For 1/12 scale we kept the setting at 28 all the way across the throttle. In mod, paying attention to the brushes is the key. Discoloration will occur quickly if the frequency is set too low. Lower turn motors than 10T will also yeild more heat and quicker brush wear with a lower frequency. For motors below 10T, I would raise the lowest frequency to about 3000Hz or a throttle setting of 22.
If you need any other questions answered let me know. If you have a setting that works well for you, share it. Understand that settings will change with track conditions and layout. This is almost like working with another gear ratio to fine tune your car. Good luck.
08-28-2003, 05:36 PM
#15
Tech Master
No problem Erik. See ya next Tuesday. I'll bring the laptop so that you can play with the settings more.