srac cr ot wen

so put a little more?

if yes, I already did that, plus there was some oil still on the other spider gear.

imaxx21

iTrader: (1)

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ad.php?t=19076

jamminnay

iTrader: (11)

just above the crosspins is perfect..

srac cr ot wen

pics dont work on that site, for me at least.

I think i got it figured out.

thanks.

jake alton

go ahead and over fill them, let it leak out.

mike williams

iTrader: (45)

i guess that why my brake pads always have smeared gease on them...overfilling, but the original question is more for diff performance. will it not get the full diff action if it is overfilled like maybe fluid locked like in a nitro motor when it floods?my buggy went from no torque to so much that it will spin the tires loose all the way down the straight which is 50 feet long or so(werks tl7port .21)....the only things i did was rebuild the diffs (3000rear,5000front,7000middle) and change my clutch springs and shoes(fironi sliding clutch w/ heavy springs now)....i don't know what to do other than completely disassemble the buggy and start over?any suggestion....is very welcome!!!

thanks a bunch

mike williams

iTrader: (45)

i just found this from a guy from the 8 thread...it answers alot of questions................

(A lot of clutch tuning is matching your shoes and springs to your engine/pipe combo and to track conditions. Stiff springs engage later and hit harder, as do light Al shoes. Usually good for tracks with high bite or motors that need help on the bottom. Soft springs engage earlier and composite shoes slip more when they engage. Usually good for loose tracks or engines with a lot of bottom end snap. So, running different shoes and springs changes where the clutch fully engages. Play around with it, you'll be amazed how much changing your clutch setup changes the way the car drives.)

srac cr ot wen

yup, clutch springs have a lot to do with the way your engine and car perform.


you said you have heavy springs now? well they let the engine rev up to like 10,000 rpm (estimate) before the clutch shoes open and engage, so the engine is making more power which is why youre spinning the tires the whole way down.

if you had soft springs, like I assume you did before, the clutch shoes will open at 6000 rpm (estimate) and you wont spin the tires a much. this is good if your engine.

thick springs give you more low end.
soft springs give you more top end speed.

FrankBlack

Id only run the hard springs on a super grip surface, ive found even one hard spring on a medium grip surface is too aggressive with the slider clutch. Thats with the carbon shoes btw.

srac cr ot wen

I use aluminum shoes which seem to wear kinda fast, and hard springs because I like top speed.

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

you can mix your springs on the sliding clutch
and only use 1 or 2 hard ones...

Crim3Wav3

iTrader: (8)

Make up your mind!

Integra

iTrader: (8)

haha X2.

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

LOL. I get on this thread to see what's what and find myself quoted already. Awesome. Mike, what I said before. Don't know what car you have but this is just general anyway. Stiff springs, light shoes, make the clutch engage later, so you're turning more RPM when it engages. Aluminum shoes slip less also. So all of that makes for a hard initial hit. Great when you have stoopid traction, not so much when the track is slick, mucho wheelspin. The opposite for soft springs and composite shoes. You also have to consider your engine and where it makes power. If it has a ton of bottom end you may want softer springs, a mix of Al and composite shoes, etc. Just play with it. Run a practice tank, see how the car feels, then change your clutch setup and run it again. Find what works for you. Diffs play a big part too. The thicker the oil, the harder that diff will pull, if the rear is loose on power you could try 2K.

srac cr ot wen

sorry, I meant to say I run hard springs because I have very low traction and am kinda lacking on the low end since I run a 18t clutch, Im in it for the top speed!!