cow buster

Zoom, have tried the one way with really soft front shocks and using the inner most hole on the tower. Its taking corners with more throttle. The downside is that its drinking the fuel really quick with all that throttling. Have you tried the rear diff set at 3/4 of a turn (really loose)?

bbntc3

I have to agree!
I have a few Richeys and they are strong with the 27 tooth gearing, even at 200 ft!

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Glad to hear that your setup is improving. I haven't tried the rear diff really loose. What did you find with that?

I currently have an issue with the rear of my car stepping out under power in the middle of a turn. This has only occured since I started using some very small tyres (foams trued to 60mm). The car still has adjustable turn in but the rear is just very loose on power.

I'm thinking it's because the droop settings when I set the ride height don't allow much droop (since I los 3 or 4mm of tyre and then set the ride height back to 5mm, which effectively reduced the amount of droop).

So to try and be clever, I have added 3mm to the shock length by adjusting the end, and increased droop by 1mm (now running guage 3 on the front and guage 1 on the rear instead of 4 and 2) so hopefully I can get the front to be a bit more compliant.

I am going to try and test these settings this afternoon and see if I'm as clever as I think I am

FFR3582

Cow-buster I will let you know how the centax improves the car when I get it.

I am wanting to run the centax to pick up more punch out of the corners and off the line. I am very experienced at adjusting the centax style clucthes and know when they are set correctly they do offer more punch off of the line.

I think Barry Baker is using the Yokomo centax becasue that was who sponsored him in nitro touring cars before he went to Associated. So I am guessing he had extra parts or connections to get parts and that is why he runs the Yokomo centax.

I think the weight of the centax vs the the advantages of getting the motor in power band is more than a fair trade.

I think kit clutch is great but I need to pick u p 3/10ths of a second on a few sponsored drivers in the area. It appears that I will easily be able to do that with better acceleration out of the corners and a fresh motor.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

According to Barry's setups, he runs the kit clutch with the copper springs bent firmer and also dremels a half moon shape out of the stock clutch shoes. This would equally give you a lot more punch out of the turns. Once I settle the rear of my car I'll be trying this clutch setup.

Not sure where you got the info on him running a centax but I'm just going by what he writes on his setups from the AE website.

cow buster

Someone in Malaysia was also saying that Barry was using a Yokomo centax.

Have you tried the 3 clutch shoe? Very punchy. We don't use droop here coz the track is like really bumpy. I got blue springs in front with copper rear, but am gonna try red or gold rear with the blue front.

The rear diff set loose causes the car to slide all over the place upon accelleration. So am sticking to the 1/4 turn rear when running oneway. But for diff front and back, the diff is set at 1/2 front and back.

cow buster

FFR3582, you are right on the pick-up with those centax cars. But think their gear ratio setting can also go really low which also contribute to the pick-up. The other contributing factor would be those mod engines. If you mod the crankshaft, the pick-up is phenominal, with or without centax I find that the kyosho fw05 has got great pick-up and with their hop-ups like the none slip (or less slip whichever it is) gear the car can run oneway like it is on diff braking, plus it runs on centax and shaft The dark side is tempting me with their powers

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

You need to go up one stiffer spring in the rear.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Excellent, thanks, I'll try that as well. I'll try the copper instead of the reds.

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

well everything in the clutch is fine, spins forever. its the freaking 2 speed. shifts fine, but the housing is stripped to hell and the clink sound is the screw hitting the 2 speed hub and sometimes locking it up, which is also causing the low speed stalling.

i finally figured it out. now hopefully the hobby shop will have it tmw.

cow buster

Hey R3VoLuTiOn, is that 2 speed housing new? Shouldn't be stripping so fast if its new. Read the previous page, check the silver ball first before you install the new housing, otherwise the same problem again. And your bulkhead pins. If you check it properly you will find that there is no way the pins can come off cause the part that holds the bearing will stop it from coming out. So you better look at the drive train of the car. I would suggest you re-screw both the gear box and check your shaft to see if its bent.

FFR3582

Zoom- I have heard and read several times that Barry is running the Yokomo centax on his car. In the newest Car Action they do a write up on Barry's set up and it is listed under aftermarket options.


I am sure if you had a motor with huge amounts of power (like Barry's motors) or had a lower bite track then it would become less of an issue. I am racing on a very high bite surface and my motors are not quite as fast as a few of the sponsored racers in th area (this may change soon when I have Mike Queller mod my next motor).

I am running the 3 shoe with copper springs that are bent stiffer and a small amount cut off of ther back of the shoes on my car now. I am looking for that last few tenths per lap.

At my last race I turned a lot of heads with my old MT 12 and single chamber pipe when I paced 3rd in A-main. The SWS ROAR series has some of the fastest racers around.

I was running against one of the Palmaris drivers with their new motor (he would have placed 4th but ran out of fuel) and he was very impressed with how well my NTC3 was performing.

The Palmaris motors sure are different to look at, if you get a chance check one out.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I want to ask the fellow NTC3 (FT) ppl about the foam settings...so it is easier for me to help the others at my local track....basicly, I just want to concentrated into several points, the rest, I will use the stock foam setting...

(1) 2-speed screws...stock setting is 3.5 open, but I use 4....what about you guys?

(2) Front shock damper is always #3, oil is 70 stock and red springs...what about you guys?

(3) Rear shock damper is always #3, oil is 70 stock and red springs...what about you guys?

(4) Rear camber link is the one on the top...? Does the middle one give better handling...?

(5) Tires are always 40/40....does ppl have better result with 37 Rear and 40 Front..?

Yes, this is for the FT front 1-way rear ball diff setting........thank you.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

TC3Chimp... you have a PM about a fast .12. It's a Richey RTU that will blow the doors off of any other legal motor out there. Email me at [email protected]

Jon

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Hey FFR, thanks for letting me know where you got the info about Barry's clutch. I wasn't trying to say you were wrong, it was just that I hadn't seen it anywhere. Being here in Aus, the last RC Car action I got was the one with the Yokomo Drift car on the front. I'll have to have a read of the new one whenever it turns up.

Good to hear that your car is working well and impressing some of the other guys. And it's good to see that other around you actually say 'good job' when you run fast, at my club it's 'you must be cheating'!

If I could just cure the loose rear end on my car I'd be happy, all my setup changes have resulted in no change to the fact the rear is very loose. I'm wondering if I've bent something and don't realise it.