rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I tried locking the rear diff down when using foams and front one-way. It made the car nervous coming out of turns, wanting to kick the rear end out too much. Would probably be the ticket for big, swepping tracks, but not tight tracks like we have here. I loosened the diff out about 3/8 turn and it made the car much easier to drive.

AMGRacer

The best way to solve this is:

1. Reduce front droop.
2. Stiffen rear springs.

Softening the fronts will not help much since the weight is going to the rear wheels under acceleration.

patelladragger

AMG,

I agree those 2 methods will make the car gain more steering. But I have the Ntc3 and I've played with setups. Making drastic changes to add steering results in a very tail happy car with the ntc3, it comes with a ton of steering already so if it's pushing you only need minor adjustments to get it right. Everyone's track and driving style is different, but I had a push with the ntc3, I put stiffer rears and the car was too uncontrollable on power. I tried going down one spring on the front and getting a stronger spring in the steering rack and the push went away making the car pretty neutral. Just going off of what my experience has been with the car.

Sydewynder

Okay. I'll just hang on to them.

bbntc3

You can't lock the diff all the way down on the NTC3 like you can the electric TC3. With the added friction washers in the NTC3 diffs, it will slip alittle no matter how tight you set it. I run the frt diff about 1/8 turn backed out and 1/2 to 5/8 out on the rear.

AMGRacer

My methods will not make it "gain more steering". Reducing front droop stops so much weight coming off the front wheels under power which will remove on power understeer. You gain more on-power steering as a result.

Stiffening rear springs prevents the weight transfer to the rear, but as you pointed out if you go too far can make the car tend towards oversteer.

Like I said softening the front spring is unlikely to have a major effect under acceleration, but I agree if you want a very subtle effect then this may work but is not the "normal" way to solve this handling problem. In fact you may gain too much steering on entry to the corner also making the car tend to oversteer.

You never want a soft servo saver on a nitro car.

rodneybarrett

iTrader: (50)

Does anyone have a good and stable setup for foam tires on prepared parking lot.

I am having a terrible time with this car. It is always wanting to come around on me at any movement of the steering. This is both off and on power.

I tried the foam setup in the book but it still didn't help.
I just need something to start with.

thanks.

bbntc3

Frt: Lay the shocks all the down 60 wt. oil,yellow or purple springs, blade bar set as light as it will go roll center links to the inside, 1 degree towed out caster spacers to the frt,0 camber,droop at +1, something in the 42 shore rating on the foams trued too 61mm,ride height at 6mm.
Rear: Shocks all the way down, red or blue springs,35 or 40wt oil, roll links to the inside,3 degrees toe in, camber 0 to 1 degree neg, droop at 0, 40 shore rating on the tires trued to 62mm, ride height 6mm.
Set the frt diff at about 1/8 to 1/4 turn out and the rear diff1/2 to 5/8 out.
This seems to make it more stable and easier to drive, if it pushes entering the corner drop the rear toe in to 2 degrees and play with the 4 spring sizes I have wrote down. also lock the servo saver down tight or change the spring to the torque spring for the RC10GT. I use CRC track magnet foams, part# 2114,2119,2120. Hope this helps it works for me!!!!!

rodneybarrett

iTrader: (50)

bbntc3: thanks. I'll try it out. I don't race until June 1 again but I'll let you know what happens.


Just for reference:

My current setup is:

front
yellow
60wt
shocks all the way in (top)
shocks outside (bottom)
blade turned 3/4 (70 degrees)
Treads 42
height 5.5mm
9 caster (on either side)
-1 camber


Rear
copper
40wt
shocks all the way in (top)
shocks inside (bottom)
no sway bar
Treads 37
height 5.5mm
toe 3 degrees
-1.5 camber

I have no idea what the diffs are set at. I am taking the car apart this week and re-adjusting everything.

DJ_GenR8

I'm about 3/4 of the way done with putting my car together. I've got 2 questions:

1) When the steering linkages are connected to the hub carriers, did the steering seem kinda tight after they were hooked up? Mine seems a bit tight, but it might just have to be broken in....

2) I can't find a proper shock length anywhere in the instructions. Is there one? If not, what is a good length to set them at from the start?

I'll probably have some more questions later.......

DJ_GenR8

Also, one of my 2 speed gears freewheels.....I can spin the smaller one......is something wrong?

Tmblewd

DJ_GenR8 - There is nothing wrong with the 2 speed, that's the way it works.

BB - What the heck are you talking about on the torque spring?? I have a GT and I'm at a loss for what you are talking about. Nothing new out here, SSDD. I did get the car out today and worked on the 2 speed. Seems to be geting closer to coming on about 80ft. Still too long for the tracks out here. I think I should have kept some of the Conv parts.

bbntc3

Tmblwd: what's up? SSDD here too! I'm talking about the slipper clutch spring I think but its actually called a torque something spring I think , #6584 maybe! Look back a few pages the # is in here.

RB: your setup stuff should work, ease off that bladebarand lay the shocks further in, so the chassis can work more, take most of the droop out, reset the diffs, 1/8 out on the frt, and 1/2 out on the rear works pretty good. Also don't be afraid to use harder rear foams, sometimes our car reacts better with the harder tires on the rear instead of the frt., I sometimes use the same shore frt and rear.

DJ: I don't think theres a length in the Ae manual for the shocks, just screw them up until you see no more threads on the shaft, if you have a caliper I think I set mine at 67.5mm., I use a serpent style shock now that you can adjust the dampening without changing pistons and oils. measurement is from end to end. i think my steering was alittle snug when I first set the car up, If you used the bushing supplied in the kit, you could have them to tight, the optional steering brgs are a must, less friction and removes alot of the steering sloppyness.

Tmblewd

BB - Ahh, ok I was lost but found my way.

DJ_GenR8

Thanx guys......almost done with it....I can't figure out how the heck I'm gonna use this fantom .12 in this car. It seems that the shaft is too long??! Or maybe I'm just clueless again....It is a long shaft with threads all the way down it, and none of the supplied parts will thread onto it.........I woulda thought it would be easy for me from racin elec. for so long, but nitro is a whole different game!