Rc10ntc3
#6541
Tech Apprentice
hey 11 ....
heres the scoop .. when the blades are set horizontal thats 0* according to Assc set up pages .. and the " SOFTEST " setting for the bar .. kinda like using the thinest bar on the electric ... when vertical thats 90* per Assc .. and the " STIFFEST " setting for the bar kinda like using the buds .093 bar on the electric version ... I personally havent had any luck with sway bars .. so I just tune to the best without em .. I know it has to be something I am doing wrong in set up .. but when I use em .. the car just wants to do dough nuts .. so I personally stay away from em .. just My .009(thanks to inflation)
have fun racing
E
heres the scoop .. when the blades are set horizontal thats 0* according to Assc set up pages .. and the " SOFTEST " setting for the bar .. kinda like using the thinest bar on the electric ... when vertical thats 90* per Assc .. and the " STIFFEST " setting for the bar kinda like using the buds .093 bar on the electric version ... I personally havent had any luck with sway bars .. so I just tune to the best without em .. I know it has to be something I am doing wrong in set up .. but when I use em .. the car just wants to do dough nuts .. so I personally stay away from em .. just My .009(thanks to inflation)
have fun racing
E
#6542
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
According to the manual for the FTNTC3 that comes with the blade as standard it says:
If you're driving on a high traction condition and your car wants to oversteer, then use the blade anti-roll bar kit. This will decrease the front chassis roll and decrease steering throughout the corner.
End quote.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Mike.
If you're driving on a high traction condition and your car wants to oversteer, then use the blade anti-roll bar kit. This will decrease the front chassis roll and decrease steering throughout the corner.
End quote.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Mike.
#6544
Thanks for the reply chuckmando, How do you like it compared to the stock two chamber pipe?
#6545
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by thomasf
Thanks for the reply chuckmando, How do you like it compared to the stock two chamber pipe?
Thanks for the reply chuckmando, How do you like it compared to the stock two chamber pipe?
#6547
Guys,
I found that my FT NTC3 with a Max 12 S5 could use a bigger 2nd gear pinion than the stock 27T cause the engine seems to rev too high on the mid of the straight at my track. However, I found that 27T is the biggest 2nd gear pinion AE offers. Anyone tried using other clutches with bigger than 27T 2nd gear pinion?
The guy in a local shop told me that he has some customer who use the MTX3 centax clutch onto the NTC3 so that they could use up to 29T 2nd gear pinion. Anyone tried that? I wonder if the gear mesh of the NTC3 is 0.8 pitch....
I found that my FT NTC3 with a Max 12 S5 could use a bigger 2nd gear pinion than the stock 27T cause the engine seems to rev too high on the mid of the straight at my track. However, I found that 27T is the biggest 2nd gear pinion AE offers. Anyone tried using other clutches with bigger than 27T 2nd gear pinion?
The guy in a local shop told me that he has some customer who use the MTX3 centax clutch onto the NTC3 so that they could use up to 29T 2nd gear pinion. Anyone tried that? I wonder if the gear mesh of the NTC3 is 0.8 pitch....
#6548
Thanks guys for the response concerning the sway bar. I currently have it in the horizontal position and it has been good my steering seems to be more responsive in that position. I was hoping to test it out in the vertical position but we had another rain out today so maybe next week.
#6550
Nitrodude: The purple one is 27T
#6551
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Hey guys,
I debuted my FT NTC3 today at our local track (Western Australia) and the car was just awesome.
It was a little wet early on and this helped show up that I didn't have enough steering for the track. A lot of turn in understeer. I adjusted the front sway bar down to the flat position and stood the front shocks up one more hole (the outermost hole) and the car was sensational.
I ran with the front one way and only a little bit of brake for if I needed it. I didn't need it!
The car turned in beautifully and held huge amounts of mid corner speed which is where my old car was lacking.
With the same motor I used in my old car, I was 2 laps faster than I was with the old car. And the lap time deviation across 17 laps was only 0.34 seconds on my best run! To be able to run within one second per lap for 17 laps in 5 mins was sensational for me.
However, in the class I run in, 1hp pull start motors, This was a qualifying record. No one has ever run 17 laps before! This has now brought my motor under scrutiny, and they are going to make sure it only has 1 hp. He he. I'm sure that this is because the guys running in the pro class (any hp from a .12 bump start non turbo), only had one qualifier faster than my qualifier! I'm thinking I'll run my 1hp motor in the pro class with these guys and just show them up!
The only real bad news is that the meeting ended up being washed out so it looks like my time will become null and void and I'll have to wait until next meeting to set the record again.
Still, I'm stoked with the way the car ran and can't wait for the next meeting.
Now where can I get a starter box and a 1.4hp picco XP .12 from.....
I debuted my FT NTC3 today at our local track (Western Australia) and the car was just awesome.
It was a little wet early on and this helped show up that I didn't have enough steering for the track. A lot of turn in understeer. I adjusted the front sway bar down to the flat position and stood the front shocks up one more hole (the outermost hole) and the car was sensational.
I ran with the front one way and only a little bit of brake for if I needed it. I didn't need it!
The car turned in beautifully and held huge amounts of mid corner speed which is where my old car was lacking.
With the same motor I used in my old car, I was 2 laps faster than I was with the old car. And the lap time deviation across 17 laps was only 0.34 seconds on my best run! To be able to run within one second per lap for 17 laps in 5 mins was sensational for me.
However, in the class I run in, 1hp pull start motors, This was a qualifying record. No one has ever run 17 laps before! This has now brought my motor under scrutiny, and they are going to make sure it only has 1 hp. He he. I'm sure that this is because the guys running in the pro class (any hp from a .12 bump start non turbo), only had one qualifier faster than my qualifier! I'm thinking I'll run my 1hp motor in the pro class with these guys and just show them up!
The only real bad news is that the meeting ended up being washed out so it looks like my time will become null and void and I'll have to wait until next meeting to set the record again.
Still, I'm stoked with the way the car ran and can't wait for the next meeting.
Now where can I get a starter box and a 1.4hp picco XP .12 from.....
#6552
Tech Regular
Guys,
I ran my new Team NTC3 today for the first time yesterday, the car was great, needed a little steering which I got by making the front a little softer.
But, in the main every time I fueled the car it would stop half way into the next lap, it would start real easy and run fine until I pitted again. Bad deal since I was in the lead until the first stop.
The engine is from my sons Kyosho and never had the problem. I have a big fuel filter, which is empty, on the pressure side rather than a bunch of fuel line. The pressure side is very short as well. The temp is about 230.
Any ideas? Do you think it is engine mixture?
I am thinking it might help to have a longer pressure side and a filter to hopefully keep fuel to the engine until the pressure builds up again. I assume it stops because the pressure is lost when the cap is opened to add fuel.
Thank,
Ted
I ran my new Team NTC3 today for the first time yesterday, the car was great, needed a little steering which I got by making the front a little softer.
But, in the main every time I fueled the car it would stop half way into the next lap, it would start real easy and run fine until I pitted again. Bad deal since I was in the lead until the first stop.
The engine is from my sons Kyosho and never had the problem. I have a big fuel filter, which is empty, on the pressure side rather than a bunch of fuel line. The pressure side is very short as well. The temp is about 230.
Any ideas? Do you think it is engine mixture?
I am thinking it might help to have a longer pressure side and a filter to hopefully keep fuel to the engine until the pressure builds up again. I assume it stops because the pressure is lost when the cap is opened to add fuel.
Thank,
Ted
#6553
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by jasoncsc
Guys,
I found that my FT NTC3 with a Max 12 S5 could use a bigger 2nd gear pinion than the stock 27T cause the engine seems to rev too high on the mid of the straight at my track. However, I found that 27T is the biggest 2nd gear pinion AE offers. Anyone tried using other clutches with bigger than 27T 2nd gear pinion?
The guy in a local shop told me that he has some customer who use the MTX3 centax clutch onto the NTC3 so that they could use up to 29T 2nd gear pinion. Anyone tried that? I wonder if the gear mesh of the NTC3 is 0.8 pitch....
Guys,
I found that my FT NTC3 with a Max 12 S5 could use a bigger 2nd gear pinion than the stock 27T cause the engine seems to rev too high on the mid of the straight at my track. However, I found that 27T is the biggest 2nd gear pinion AE offers. Anyone tried using other clutches with bigger than 27T 2nd gear pinion?
The guy in a local shop told me that he has some customer who use the MTX3 centax clutch onto the NTC3 so that they could use up to 29T 2nd gear pinion. Anyone tried that? I wonder if the gear mesh of the NTC3 is 0.8 pitch....
However, you must use the CENTAX, and he said the reaction time of the centax compare to the mod 3 shoes clutch is a littel slower and not that punchy, on return , you gain some high speed power..........BUT, he also mentioned, you must garantee your track has the ROAD for you to pull that 43,000 rpm.......otherwise, anything over 27T is a waste on your engine and on your NTC3.
You can try to order the Hongnor stuff in KWS or OFNA stuff from Ofna website, they are not cheap, but I don't see others that made 0.8 module gearing system 2ith 28 and 29T 2nd gear beside them.
Go to page 205, we had that discussion a while back, with the Mugen MTX 3 with 0.8 and the Yokomo cetnax for NTC3.
Last edited by Rookie Solara; 07-04-2004 at 07:08 AM.
#6554
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by jt6
Hey Rookie - is this with the new or old rear? Or both?
Just curious cause I have run into this same symptom and never thought of the caps being too tight?
Hey Rookie - is this with the new or old rear? Or both?
Just curious cause I have run into this same symptom and never thought of the caps being too tight?
Anyhow, you are welcome, and since I win my bet, where is my price...?
P.S........I am still ROOKIE, and I will always be ROOKIE untill I die.
#6555
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally posted by revzalot
The more vertical the blade the stiffer. What confuses me is when someone says, "I adjusted the blade 15 degrees." Is that 15 degrees from the horizontal?
The more vertical the blade the stiffer. What confuses me is when someone says, "I adjusted the blade 15 degrees." Is that 15 degrees from the horizontal?
So when ppl say 0 degree, = FLAT ( ---- )
When ppl say 45 degree....turn it toward the sky 45 degree( \ )
When ppl say 95 degree....turn it toward the sky 95 degree( | )
No one will use the degree below 0 or beyond 90....