Rc10ntc3
#5701
Originally posted by Punkynutt
Yo crashed_1
I've had a 1/5 scale truck land and stand on my car, the marshalls "remedied" the situation by obviously removing the thing, my car was still idling, and I spead away winning the race. Why was I racing a 1/5 truck, well all the other 1/10 nitro drivers were to scared to race against myself and another dude with a HPI R40
My point, this car has seen some serious race-track "accidents" and I only replaced a broken pivot cap. I live in South Africa, we pay roughly 7 times more than you guys pay around the world for our RC stuff. Replacing screws with stock instead of Alum or Titanium is far cheaper, even if I have to do it a few times.
That RB engine costs too much anyway. Tell me this though, I need some advice.
I've removed the crab restrictor from my AE.12 engine. What do I need to set the High/low screws to to compensate
Thanks
Vrrrmmm
Yo crashed_1
I've had a 1/5 scale truck land and stand on my car, the marshalls "remedied" the situation by obviously removing the thing, my car was still idling, and I spead away winning the race. Why was I racing a 1/5 truck, well all the other 1/10 nitro drivers were to scared to race against myself and another dude with a HPI R40
My point, this car has seen some serious race-track "accidents" and I only replaced a broken pivot cap. I live in South Africa, we pay roughly 7 times more than you guys pay around the world for our RC stuff. Replacing screws with stock instead of Alum or Titanium is far cheaper, even if I have to do it a few times.
That RB engine costs too much anyway. Tell me this though, I need some advice.
I've removed the crab restrictor from my AE.12 engine. What do I need to set the High/low screws to to compensate
Thanks
Vrrrmmm
#5702
Tech Adept
Thanks man, I've already set it 1/4 richer from the factory settings for both the high and low. Still waiting for a response from Associated.
Engine temp used to be around 215 F but still stays around 261. Not racing until I get an answer from them
Thanks
Engine temp used to be around 215 F but still stays around 261. Not racing until I get an answer from them
Thanks
#5703
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Originally posted by Punkynutt
Thanks man, I've already set it 1/4 richer from the factory settings for both the high and low. Still waiting for a response from Associated.
Engine temp used to be around 215 F but still stays around 261. Not racing until I get an answer from them
Thanks
Thanks man, I've already set it 1/4 richer from the factory settings for both the high and low. Still waiting for a response from Associated.
Engine temp used to be around 215 F but still stays around 261. Not racing until I get an answer from them
Thanks
#5704
Tech Adept
Thanks spawn, this is exactly what I wanted to know. I realize that each engine is different, I had asked to the question only to get a guideline.
I base most of my findings on the temperature of the engine using a temp gauge and then secondly on the smoke and performance, but I use all three for a final "reading". The preferred running temp for this AE.12 is approx 220 F
Thanks
I base most of my findings on the temperature of the engine using a temp gauge and then secondly on the smoke and performance, but I use all three for a final "reading". The preferred running temp for this AE.12 is approx 220 F
Thanks
#5705
Motor Mounts and Flywheels combos?
Guys
Can someone give me the Cliff Notes on the differences in the heigth and diameter of Pull Start vs Non Pull Start motor mounts and flywheels.
Seems to me there is a difference in heigth and diameter, and
I seem to have the wrong combo when using a NON PS
on my AE starter box. Is it correct that the NON PS motor mounts sit lower and conversly is the fly wheel smaller?
My AE starter box wheel seems to be hitting the chassis
as the flywheel is too high in the chassis due to higher mounts?
Or do I have a freak situation?
thanks in advance
Can someone give me the Cliff Notes on the differences in the heigth and diameter of Pull Start vs Non Pull Start motor mounts and flywheels.
Seems to me there is a difference in heigth and diameter, and
I seem to have the wrong combo when using a NON PS
on my AE starter box. Is it correct that the NON PS motor mounts sit lower and conversly is the fly wheel smaller?
My AE starter box wheel seems to be hitting the chassis
as the flywheel is too high in the chassis due to higher mounts?
Or do I have a freak situation?
thanks in advance
#5706
Tech Apprentice
Yes there is a difference in the height of the motor mounts on a P/S and the non P/S engines. The flywheel is also a different diameter to compensate the difference in the height of the motor mounts.
So i believe that you do have the wrong combo of flywheel to motor mounts on your car if your starter box is hitting the chassis.
P/S mounts - 17.8mm high
non-P/S mounts - 13.0mm high
hope this helps, if you need more information you can go to www.towerhobbies.com
So i believe that you do have the wrong combo of flywheel to motor mounts on your car if your starter box is hitting the chassis.
P/S mounts - 17.8mm high
non-P/S mounts - 13.0mm high
hope this helps, if you need more information you can go to www.towerhobbies.com
#5707
Can Am or Lola Body Sourcing
I've noticed a few guys running the older style Can Am type bodies.
Where do you get them and who makes them? I always loved the look of the Donahue Lola T70 type cars. How do they handle compared to the boring NASCAR looking coupes. My track is short and as long as you run a spoiler, I'm not sure the body style makes any difference.
How about Stewart and Earnhart pairing up this weekend at the Daytona Rolex 24?........I heard Newman is even running!
Thanks in Advance
Where do you get them and who makes them? I always loved the look of the Donahue Lola T70 type cars. How do they handle compared to the boring NASCAR looking coupes. My track is short and as long as you run a spoiler, I'm not sure the body style makes any difference.
How about Stewart and Earnhart pairing up this weekend at the Daytona Rolex 24?........I heard Newman is even running!
Thanks in Advance
#5708
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Can-am & Lola bodies have a big effect on handling they provide a lot more down force. As you are in the NTC3 thread I assume thats what car you want to put it on. On my NTC3 I had to cut holes for the front shock tower to clear, it looked really hack but it handled well, in AU Frewer make theese bodys I dont know if the frewer bodies are available in the US, but your LHS should be able to get one from somewhere I have seen them on US sites to suit 200mm tourers. Check with your club & make sure they allow them as a lot of clubs dont.
#5709
Tech Rookie
I use the YOKOMO GTP body on my BMI NTC3 and just take my time getting her as slow as possible with cutting out the body. If you take your time and get it as low as possible I think it turns out very nice looking.
#5710
Yokomo Bodies for Can Am and GTP
I went out to the Yokomo site and found:
Part# ZE-RHB (Retail Price: $25.00)
1/10th Scale Racing Body (GTP TYPE) 200mm with protective over-spray film.
or
Part# ZE-RTB (Retail Price: $25.00)
1/10th Scale Racing Body (GTP TYPE) 200mm with protective over-spray film.
http://www.yokomousa.com/index3.htm
Looks like you need to cut out clearance for the shock towers or
use a heating/blower to soften the plastic and push the body down.
Do you have any clearance problems with the front foam bumper
on a NTC3?
Maybe I should try that Euro Truck body - it has plenty o' front bumper clearance -
Part# ZE-RHB (Retail Price: $25.00)
1/10th Scale Racing Body (GTP TYPE) 200mm with protective over-spray film.
or
Part# ZE-RTB (Retail Price: $25.00)
1/10th Scale Racing Body (GTP TYPE) 200mm with protective over-spray film.
http://www.yokomousa.com/index3.htm
Looks like you need to cut out clearance for the shock towers or
use a heating/blower to soften the plastic and push the body down.
Do you have any clearance problems with the front foam bumper
on a NTC3?
Maybe I should try that Euro Truck body - it has plenty o' front bumper clearance -
#5712
What kind of pipe do your run on that washin' machine?
My wife won't let me cut out the lid for cooling
My wife won't let me cut out the lid for cooling
#5713
Tech Rookie
The foam front bumper needs to be cut straight across and angled. No big deal there.
I did indeed heat the lexan around the front shock tower to lower the body just a tiny bit to get it level when in full race trim. I also removed the very ends of the tower where the body posts would go, as in the rear.
As far as downforce goes, if you need more than this body offers, you need to look further at your set-up! This body provides plenty of downforce, front & rear even at lower speeds.
And I run an RD Logics pipe on the wahser... You should see what I am running on the dryer!!!!
I did indeed heat the lexan around the front shock tower to lower the body just a tiny bit to get it level when in full race trim. I also removed the very ends of the tower where the body posts would go, as in the rear.
As far as downforce goes, if you need more than this body offers, you need to look further at your set-up! This body provides plenty of downforce, front & rear even at lower speeds.
And I run an RD Logics pipe on the wahser... You should see what I am running on the dryer!!!!
#5714
Registered User
delete
Last edited by bbntc3; 01-30-2004 at 08:40 AM.
#5715
Registered User
delete