bbntc3

Hey Harry i'm not going to wing out on ya! But what does the fix have to do with it? you own stock in The Fix Co.? the way I fix the cases and the way The fix does it, its the same thing? My tower was still tight to the diff case, but broke right at the screws for the fix, so no the fix will not help in this area.
I hate belt cars! That's why I keep my NTC3. Its the fastest sedan I have ever seen on acceleration. Yes I understand the don't hit the board deal and so on! But I was just stating what I saw with the mugens compared to the NTC3, not to say they are built better just maybe they were lucky. I guess
The road domes are sweet but the launching deal is also very real. And no its not a design flaw, anyway you would make it would have the same effect.
The diffs I saw sat night, just flat out melted down!Now, they may have had the diff to loose or the diff screw came loose, I dunno. I have had no more diff troubles with my car at all since the new diff gears and I have removed my RTU and installed my faithful 5 port
RB. Well I 'm running the smeltz sirrio now.
I too loved the RB 5 port engines,and thought they had unreal power. But once you have had a Smeltz Sirrio or a Richey RTU or RTO. Theres no comparision!
I have never nor will I ever own a HPI car!

InitialD

Just some corrections... The stock axles on the 705 (and the PRO) are NOT made of Hudy spring steel. The Hudy spring steel ones are optional items. These last forever. I still have mine in my PRO and after a good year of racing, they still look like new, less the discolouration of course

And yes, they break because they are somewhat brittle. I broke mine because I screwed the wheel nuts too damn tight

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

There's a less expensive fix than "the fix" which is recommended by AE and that is to replace the mid screw and the screw on the gear side with 4-40 1/2" screws. This actually keeps the tower from coming loose easily. You will still need to check it and snug it up every now and then but it does work.

DON'T use the longer screw on the short side of the gearbox, it will hit the bearing.

The car is great, I only broke one part, a rear hub, when the car's wheel nut caught a pvc pipe joint seam.

xray vision

If you want to make it a little stronger then use some corrally battery tubes(female connectors that solder onto your batteries) between the tower and gearcase with the 1inch1/4 by 440 bolts.
Helps stop the tower from leaning over and pulling the screws out!
Used this ever since i built my hardcore tc3...works a treat

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

good reply....hey..I'm really thinking of that K factory clutch...and I respect your opinion more than others...

one,was it easy to set up(my serpent centax was a dream)..two,does the car launch harder,and stay in adjustment..

and besides lubing the thrust bearing once in awhile,any other maintence?...

and three,does it launch WAY better..and rocket the car out of corners..thanks..

also,with teh lowered mounts,did you notice any handling differnce,good or bad?..

OB42TC3

I had horrible gear problems at this year's first MWS race at Toledo. I lost two qualifiers and a main on the rear box. I found the cause though; the two speed shaft was out of spec. I tore the car down to just the gear case and bulkhead to check the mesh and sure enough there was about 1/16 of axial(fore-aft) play on the pinion allowing the pinion to move away from the diff. It was so loose I think it would strip in my electric stock sedan. I then put in the two speed from my backup car and it was right on. The first qualifier I grenaded the front input cup, so I put my notched IRS one on since I haven't got my k-factories yet and I think it had some extra slop that alowed the two speed shaft to move forward more than the plastic one did, which is why this didn't happen before. What it comes down to with AE cars is you have to blueprint them(ie diff shimming); I think this is part of the reason a lot of people hate them(myself included on the shoddy quality; IMO it's the worst excuse for failures), you don't have to do that with a losi or kyosho for instance.
I too have melted a couple gears last year and what I found with those is the diff ring is too tight in the gear and gets stuck causing the diff to slip, and then melt. To fix this make sure you can spin the diff rings against the gear before you build the diffs.

BTW of the 3-4 mugens up @ Toledo, I've seen 2 bust the rear shock tower off the bulkheads. The mugen rear bulkhead to tower mount is as laughable as the AE front tower. They all have weaknesses, did I mention broken belts?

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

that was a good post..are you saying the diff ring gets caught in the recessed side of the diff gear?I just pulled a black gear and ring out of a rebuild kit...to be honest,its loose,but I can see theres no margin for error...

as far as the fore/ aft play,you are right...both my cars have arounf half mm of travel....I'm gonna reshim them tommorow..have you done this also? and did you move the gears tighter?(pinion into the box,rearward)

no sence looking for trouble...

thanks..

btw,is it only the rear boxwhere people have problems?..

hey BB,was it the rear diffs your freinds broke?..

FROGGY

i'm looking at getting a nitro touring car,most likely the ntc3. if my lhs does what they say there will be a nitro on-road track to run on in 6-9 months big enough for 8th scale touring cars.might run some oval with it also.
i was just wondering what different gear ratios have you guys tried in the car other than the stock gearing?(pinion/spur 1st and 2nd gear) i would like to know what combo's work and still maintain good gear mesh on both 1st and 2nd gear.

thanks

froggy

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

http://www.rc10.com/pdf/ntc3_GearRatioChart.pdf



Pinion Spur Ratio
1st 2nd 1st 2nd 1st 2nd Notes
20 24 54 50 6.7500 5.2083 slower
21 25 54 50 6.4286 5.0000 ?£
22 26 54 50 6.1364 4.8077 (stock) „_
23 27 54 50 5.8696 4.6296 „_
„_
20 26 54 48 6.7500 4.6154 (6T span) „_
21 27 54 48 6.4286 4.4444 (6T span) „_
„_
20 24 52 48 6.5000 5.0000 „_
21 25 52 48 6.1905 4.8000 „_
22 26 52 48 5.9091 4.6154 ?¥
23 27 52 48 5.6522 4.4444 faster

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

btw,I only got to run 2 tanks tonite due to never ending rain in NJ..

but I thought the K factory tank ran great..I could actually idle my 3 port RB turbo and take off smooth...i really liked it..

OB42TC3

Yeah I shimmed it for zero play on the input shaft w/o binding the bearings, same for the diff. I found using both shims on some of my diffs bound up the bearings, on the car it now has one shim on the diff, three small behind the pinion, and i think 1 axle shim(=2 small) behind the brake cam(so how far off is that from the instructions?). Doing it that way it had a slight tightness in the mesh that went completely away after a tank of fuel. So now there is no play and no tightness. What it comes down to is each and every time you change anything in the driveline(drivecup?), you better check the mesh. If you look at the pinions and drive cup surfaces extend beyond the pin; so whenever they vary... the mesh varies, same goes for diff cases, gears, etc.

InitialD

Yes, they are low profile but the smoke colour of the plastic makes it somewhat difficult to see the fuel level especially if you're playing at night.

nitrosaurus

the higher the ratio, the better?

InitialD

The higher the ratio, the better the acceleration and vice versa. The trick is to get just the enough ratio and tire rollout for the long straight based on the capability of your engine to keep the powerband shift between first and second gear as close as possible so as not to bog the engine out.

FROGGY

thanks for the quick replies on the gear ratios i appreciate it a lot